At least once.
Summary
Sweet. Santa Ana's, a little south swell, a little west swell. Fun waves, beautiful place, great day, life is good.
Waves
Not big, most everything waist high, some bigger sets rolling through every now and then. Pretty fun and workable too, even a few fast (and hollow!) waves. Can't argue with that. Looking at the ocean from the shore one doesn't see much happening, but all in all the waves were a great deal of fun.
Crowds
There were a handful out, but a small handful. Fifteen tops at all of County. Surprising as the waves were pretty dang sweet.
Weather
Sunny, warm wind, offshores. Beautiful.
Forecast
Looks like there's waves every day for the next week. Saturday afternoon/Sunday should be fun.
Eventful Stuff
2 1/2 hours of sleep...6 pages of essay writing...surfing at 6AM...hard life.
Wave of the Day
Well, I got most of the session on video. There were a handful of sweet, fast turn, big carves, even a few little barrels! Quite exciting. Not going to go too much into detail because there isn't much more to say, five or six second waves, fast, steep, fun.
Summary:
County Line, Malibu
5'10" Quad Beauty
6:30-8:00
2-3ft, 4ft sets
3/5
Billy & Co
Thursday, October 1, 2009
I will surf every day in October
Labels:
3/5,
County Line,
fall,
friends,
Quad Fish,
Santa Ana winds,
Socal,
sunrise,
surfing
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