Summary
Small. That's pretty much it. Size is all I want right now. And size I will not get.
Waves
Small. If they were bigger they would have better shape. It's not so much that they're bad so much as they're just small.
Crowds
Small. With nice weather but lacking waves, this should come as no surprise.
Weather
Beautiful relatively warm sunny afternoon. Weak offshore winds.
Forecast
Small. Seriously that's it.
Eventful Stuff
Absolutely nothing.
Wave of the Day
The truth is I was having fun riding goofy footed on my shortboard. Certainly not great waves, but a good way to have a good time on bad ones. It really makes you feel better than you aren't catching shit =)
Summary:
Zuma, Malibu
8:30-9:30
1-2ft+ ? period
1/5
County Line, Ventura
5'10" Al Merrick White Dove
4:30-5:30
1-2ft with MAYBE one or two 3ft waves
1/5
Mia
Thursday, January 29, 2009
Sunday, January 25, 2009
That was stupid of me to waste my time...
Summary
Crap stormswell. Decently strong current, high tide made it doable, but the shoulders really weren't much to work with.
Waves
Sucky. There was steepness and breaking shoulders, but the shape was just so warbled it really was not a pleasant experience.
Crowds
Moderately crowded for being such crap surf, but not by any other definition.
Weather
Mostly sunny but god damn windy.
Forecast
Not so good. No surf down here pretty much the whole week. The kicker: Santa Ana's...AGAIN. Oh well, there was amazing surf last week, so guess you can't complain too much.
Eventful Stuff
None.
Wave of the Day
Really nothing great, I think I had two turns in on one wave, but meh...ending in the sand really just kills it.
Summary:
County Line, Ventura
6'1" Al Merrick White Dove
8:45-9:30
3-5ft 7sec w/ groundswell mixed in
1+/5
Crap stormswell. Decently strong current, high tide made it doable, but the shoulders really weren't much to work with.
Waves
Sucky. There was steepness and breaking shoulders, but the shape was just so warbled it really was not a pleasant experience.
Crowds
Moderately crowded for being such crap surf, but not by any other definition.
Weather
Mostly sunny but god damn windy.
Forecast
Not so good. No surf down here pretty much the whole week. The kicker: Santa Ana's...AGAIN. Oh well, there was amazing surf last week, so guess you can't complain too much.
Eventful Stuff
None.
Wave of the Day
Really nothing great, I think I had two turns in on one wave, but meh...ending in the sand really just kills it.
Summary:
County Line, Ventura
6'1" Al Merrick White Dove
8:45-9:30
3-5ft 7sec w/ groundswell mixed in
1+/5
Jalama!
Summary
Damn this place is baller. I'd kill for beaches like this just a bit farther South---uncrowded potential with some character.
Waves
The session was broken up into two parts---the first part (hour and 3/4) waves were pretty dang decent, easy to surf and shoulders aplenty. The second hour and a half was not as cooperative, mushed out by the wind, and generally an amazing exercise, but not so great of surfing.
Crowds
LAUGH
Weather
Slightly overcast, foggy a bit farther inland, but it cleared up off and on. Unfortunately pretty dang windy around 9. Far better conditions than anywhere south though. The storm sure messed up LA surf pretty well too, so this trip was a good call.
Forecast
Nope, let's not even kid ourselves. I'm not sure if I am even going to be able to surf in the next week (obviously I will, but they'll be crappy sessions...)
Eventful Stuff
Steve got a 5'10" Al Mer Flyer II Tuflite at the CI shop in Santa Barbara. Sick board, I'm stoked for him (though not as much as he is!) I'm excited about custom ordering a board in any color/design/deck/everything that I want. Yes...
Wave of the Day
Oh man. As a wave for actually surfing on, not so great. A wave for going super friggen fast, absolutely amazing. HUGE set comes, probably 1-2ft bigger than any waves we saw the whole day, and I shoot for the first one, Steve the second. I knew that if I stopped going I would get schooled by Steve's wave, so even though it looked pretty closeouty I went. By "I went" I mean I shot down the face of that thing faster than my fish has ever gone. I was almost scared I'd hydroplane and faceplant that's how fast I was going. After talking to Steve after that's pretty much the story for him too. Hilarious, a bit intimidating, but really just loads of fun.
Summary:
Jalama Beach, Santa Barbara
5'10" Southpoint
7:30-10:30
4-7ft w/ + sets 13sec
3/5
County Line, Ventura
6'1" Al Merrick White Dove
3:00-3:45
3-5ft 8sec windswell
meh no ranking
Damn this place is baller. I'd kill for beaches like this just a bit farther South---uncrowded potential with some character.
Waves
The session was broken up into two parts---the first part (hour and 3/4) waves were pretty dang decent, easy to surf and shoulders aplenty. The second hour and a half was not as cooperative, mushed out by the wind, and generally an amazing exercise, but not so great of surfing.
Crowds
LAUGH
Weather
Slightly overcast, foggy a bit farther inland, but it cleared up off and on. Unfortunately pretty dang windy around 9. Far better conditions than anywhere south though. The storm sure messed up LA surf pretty well too, so this trip was a good call.
Forecast
Nope, let's not even kid ourselves. I'm not sure if I am even going to be able to surf in the next week (obviously I will, but they'll be crappy sessions...)
Eventful Stuff
Steve got a 5'10" Al Mer Flyer II Tuflite at the CI shop in Santa Barbara. Sick board, I'm stoked for him (though not as much as he is!) I'm excited about custom ordering a board in any color/design/deck/everything that I want. Yes...
Wave of the Day
Oh man. As a wave for actually surfing on, not so great. A wave for going super friggen fast, absolutely amazing. HUGE set comes, probably 1-2ft bigger than any waves we saw the whole day, and I shoot for the first one, Steve the second. I knew that if I stopped going I would get schooled by Steve's wave, so even though it looked pretty closeouty I went. By "I went" I mean I shot down the face of that thing faster than my fish has ever gone. I was almost scared I'd hydroplane and faceplant that's how fast I was going. After talking to Steve after that's pretty much the story for him too. Hilarious, a bit intimidating, but really just loads of fun.
Summary:
Jalama Beach, Santa Barbara
5'10" Southpoint
7:30-10:30
4-7ft w/ + sets 13sec
3/5
County Line, Ventura
6'1" Al Merrick White Dove
3:00-3:45
3-5ft 8sec windswell
meh no ranking
And the downward spiral begins...
Retro for Friday January 23, 2009
Summary
Mediocre fun. There were waves and shoulders (occasionally) and usually enough time for a turn or two.
Waves
The ocean is getting pretty dead. Thankfully there are waves but they are weak and getting weaker.
Crowds
None, anywhere...not after the swell there's been this past week.
Weather
Mediocre. Not as beautiful as past days, not as offshorey, but certainly not unpleasant.
Forecast
Very very very bad.
Eventful Stuff
I saw the Pepperdine surf class. I was surfing a ways away from them but I saw them and their first lesson.
Wave of the Day
There were a couple fun ones, really no "WOW AMAZING" but a waist+ high right, two turns, all the way in to the sand. Fun, no doubt.
Summary:
Zuma, Malibu
6'1" Al Merrick White Dove
8:30-10:30
2-4ft 15sec
2-/5
Summary
Mediocre fun. There were waves and shoulders (occasionally) and usually enough time for a turn or two.
Waves
The ocean is getting pretty dead. Thankfully there are waves but they are weak and getting weaker.
Crowds
None, anywhere...not after the swell there's been this past week.
Weather
Mediocre. Not as beautiful as past days, not as offshorey, but certainly not unpleasant.
Forecast
Very very very bad.
Eventful Stuff
I saw the Pepperdine surf class. I was surfing a ways away from them but I saw them and their first lesson.
Wave of the Day
There were a couple fun ones, really no "WOW AMAZING" but a waist+ high right, two turns, all the way in to the sand. Fun, no doubt.
Summary:
Zuma, Malibu
6'1" Al Merrick White Dove
8:30-10:30
2-4ft 15sec
2-/5
Wednesday, January 21, 2009
I just can't stay away...
Summary
Overall pretty punchy waves, shorter rides than the past few days, and far more sectiony. A little luck is all you need though.
Waves
Decent waves, not as perfect of shape or consistency as the past few days, but can't argue with decent size and small crowds. Definitely some potential but my energy level has been dwindling the past few days (mostly due to surfing as much as I sleep, which cannot be good for you...)
Crowds
Small, but larger than the past few days. I think people realize the swell is pretty much done today so they're getting the surfing out of their system.
Weather
Slightly overcast, but still relatively warm for a winters day. Offshores continue, but once again today is the last day.
Forecast
Looks pretty mediocre. There should be waves but nothing sizable like right now. Probably 2-4ft (being generous) throughout the next week. Potential for some south swell, so we'll see maybe there'll be a few uncrowded Zuma sessions, we'll see.
Eventful Stuff
Absolutely nothing. No injuries, no pain. My alarm didn't go off but I decided to go surfing anyway. I like cold water, what can I say?
Wave of the Day
Tons of fun little waves, most with 2-3 turns. Thinking back to the session I think the most fun wave was probably only about 10 second long, steep drop, super sharp bottom turn, vertical cutback, down the face, bottom turn, cutback right into the lip as the wave is closing out, knocking me on my ass (sitting on the board).
Summary:
County Line (point), Ventura County
6'1" Al Merrick White Dove
7:15-9:15
3-6ft 14sec
3/5
Overall pretty punchy waves, shorter rides than the past few days, and far more sectiony. A little luck is all you need though.
Waves
Decent waves, not as perfect of shape or consistency as the past few days, but can't argue with decent size and small crowds. Definitely some potential but my energy level has been dwindling the past few days (mostly due to surfing as much as I sleep, which cannot be good for you...)
Crowds
Small, but larger than the past few days. I think people realize the swell is pretty much done today so they're getting the surfing out of their system.
Weather
Slightly overcast, but still relatively warm for a winters day. Offshores continue, but once again today is the last day.
Forecast
Looks pretty mediocre. There should be waves but nothing sizable like right now. Probably 2-4ft (being generous) throughout the next week. Potential for some south swell, so we'll see maybe there'll be a few uncrowded Zuma sessions, we'll see.
Eventful Stuff
Absolutely nothing. No injuries, no pain. My alarm didn't go off but I decided to go surfing anyway. I like cold water, what can I say?
Wave of the Day
Tons of fun little waves, most with 2-3 turns. Thinking back to the session I think the most fun wave was probably only about 10 second long, steep drop, super sharp bottom turn, vertical cutback, down the face, bottom turn, cutback right into the lip as the wave is closing out, knocking me on my ass (sitting on the board).
Summary:
County Line (point), Ventura County
6'1" Al Merrick White Dove
7:15-9:15
3-6ft 14sec
3/5
Tuesday, January 20, 2009
I sense continued soreness...
Summary
Rocking session. The point was absolutely firing. At least a dozen five + turn waves. Honestly, couldn't ask for more.
Waves
Pretty much perfect. Once the tide started to fall I would actually argue that conditions worsened, but were still super fun. Basically every single wave was shredable, and everyone got more than their fair share of them.
Crowds
Nothing compared to the past week. The point when I first went out had 20. There ended up being probably 60 or 70, mostly longboarders sitting either super far outside or way south/east. Basically, no one jacked any of my good waves (a few people dropped in on mediocre ones, but that doesn't really bother me much...) and I dropped in on no one ever.
Weather
Sunny, slight offshore, cold. Pretty much continuing the trend of the past week. Tomorrow is the last day, then it turns back into winter time...boo.
Forecast
Not as good (I can't have my hopes too high) but still pretty friggen awesome.
Eventful Stuff
I smashed my board into my chin, so for the past six hours my jaw has been pretty nasty sore.
Wave of the Day
The past week has seen me get many of my "best waves ever" at County. Today is no exception. Probably a 40 second ride from far far far inside most of the way to the beach break. The truth is while I was racing against this wave it really wanted me to be on it. The cheering vibe was with me on this one, and I knew I had to tear it up, so I did. Super sharp basically vertical cutbacks really left me with the sense that this board really is designed for more workable waves. Overall there were probably five or six sick turns, one wrap around, and no one dropping in on me. It may not sound perfect, but it really was everything you could want in a wave (except an air section but it is a point break so let's not kid ourselves here...)
Summary:
County Line Ventura County
6'1" Al Merrick White Dove
7:00-10:45
4-6ft+ 14sec
4/5
Mia came at ~9
Rocking session. The point was absolutely firing. At least a dozen five + turn waves. Honestly, couldn't ask for more.
Waves
Pretty much perfect. Once the tide started to fall I would actually argue that conditions worsened, but were still super fun. Basically every single wave was shredable, and everyone got more than their fair share of them.
Crowds
Nothing compared to the past week. The point when I first went out had 20. There ended up being probably 60 or 70, mostly longboarders sitting either super far outside or way south/east. Basically, no one jacked any of my good waves (a few people dropped in on mediocre ones, but that doesn't really bother me much...) and I dropped in on no one ever.
Weather
Sunny, slight offshore, cold. Pretty much continuing the trend of the past week. Tomorrow is the last day, then it turns back into winter time...boo.
Forecast
Not as good (I can't have my hopes too high) but still pretty friggen awesome.
Eventful Stuff
I smashed my board into my chin, so for the past six hours my jaw has been pretty nasty sore.
Wave of the Day
The past week has seen me get many of my "best waves ever" at County. Today is no exception. Probably a 40 second ride from far far far inside most of the way to the beach break. The truth is while I was racing against this wave it really wanted me to be on it. The cheering vibe was with me on this one, and I knew I had to tear it up, so I did. Super sharp basically vertical cutbacks really left me with the sense that this board really is designed for more workable waves. Overall there were probably five or six sick turns, one wrap around, and no one dropping in on me. It may not sound perfect, but it really was everything you could want in a wave (except an air section but it is a point break so let's not kid ourselves here...)
Summary:
County Line Ventura County
6'1" Al Merrick White Dove
7:00-10:45
4-6ft+ 14sec
4/5
Mia came at ~9
Monday, January 19, 2009
Can't argue with that...
Summary
This is surfing. Nothing against Southern California, but days like today are rare. Good conditions, good size waves, fun workable shoulders, and moderate crowds. Pretty much as much fun as you can have. 4/5 because while doable and fun, certainly a little mushy and hard to take off on.
Waves
Well well well...super fun super workable faces. Rights and lefts, Steve and I sat behind the apartments getting the hook up on the ridiculously consistent sets. The best waves County has seen in a heck of a long time.
Crowds
Absolute laugh. It's a holiday today, but the truth is the crowds are super light. By no means was it "not crowded" but given amazing waves, a national holiday off, and beautiful weather, there were very few people.
Weather
Chilly but not too cold. Still air early morning, slowly progressing to offshores. Regardless beautiful weather for surfing, amazing sunrise, etc.
Forecast
Yes, it looks pretty dang amazing. New swell filling in tomorrow, fun waves through the week!
Eventful Stuff
Shortboard leashless in decent waves when surfing in front of rocks is not a good idea. Needless to say, my afternoon left me spending some time fixing up the dings. I did not drop in on anyone, and no one dropped in on me.
Wave of the Day
Where to begin? Put quite simply I had a decent wave every five minutes. Any wave that you could take inside would wall up and barrel for a few seconds before destroying you. Ranking the dozen+ barrels is no simple feat, and so I am going to make a conservative call and say that this wave was a right behind the apartments. Late drop, steep bottom turn and cutback, then wiggling around the wave until it walled up on the inside, giving me a two second barrel and a hell of a paddle back out.
Summary:
County Line
6'1" Al Merrick White Dove / 5'10" Southpoint
7:00-10:45
4-6ft 15sec
4/5
Steve (Mia & Eric came separately, were by the point but neither of us saw them)
This is surfing. Nothing against Southern California, but days like today are rare. Good conditions, good size waves, fun workable shoulders, and moderate crowds. Pretty much as much fun as you can have. 4/5 because while doable and fun, certainly a little mushy and hard to take off on.
Waves
Well well well...super fun super workable faces. Rights and lefts, Steve and I sat behind the apartments getting the hook up on the ridiculously consistent sets. The best waves County has seen in a heck of a long time.
Crowds
Absolute laugh. It's a holiday today, but the truth is the crowds are super light. By no means was it "not crowded" but given amazing waves, a national holiday off, and beautiful weather, there were very few people.
Weather
Chilly but not too cold. Still air early morning, slowly progressing to offshores. Regardless beautiful weather for surfing, amazing sunrise, etc.
Forecast
Yes, it looks pretty dang amazing. New swell filling in tomorrow, fun waves through the week!
Eventful Stuff
Shortboard leashless in decent waves when surfing in front of rocks is not a good idea. Needless to say, my afternoon left me spending some time fixing up the dings. I did not drop in on anyone, and no one dropped in on me.
Wave of the Day
Where to begin? Put quite simply I had a decent wave every five minutes. Any wave that you could take inside would wall up and barrel for a few seconds before destroying you. Ranking the dozen+ barrels is no simple feat, and so I am going to make a conservative call and say that this wave was a right behind the apartments. Late drop, steep bottom turn and cutback, then wiggling around the wave until it walled up on the inside, giving me a two second barrel and a hell of a paddle back out.
Summary:
County Line
6'1" Al Merrick White Dove / 5'10" Southpoint
7:00-10:45
4-6ft 15sec
4/5
Steve (Mia & Eric came separately, were by the point but neither of us saw them)
Sunday, January 18, 2009
And it continues...
Summary
Dang fun, through and through. Rights and lefts galore. Imperfect but in a good sort of way.
Waves
Everything imaginable. Sweet clean hollow shoulders to mushy closeouts. A little luck is all you need and apparently I had some with me today.
Crowds
Bad, but not horrible. County was crowded as it always is when there's actually swell, but the little break behind the apartments was completely empty. Then suddenly as both Steve and I get waves, ten people pop up. Boo.
Weather
Sunny, warm, offshores. Water is cold, but it is winter time after all.
Forecast
Looks pretty dang good.
Eventful Stuff
"Why would you look back?"
Played around on Mia's board and had some fun waves. That thing glides more than my fish...
Wave of the Day
The wave I stole from some bald guy on a fish. I do feel bad for stealing it, but only slightly---it was undoubetdly the best wave of the day. I'm a little fuzzy on the details but it was probably one of the best waves I've had here at County, point or beach break. Multiple cutbacks, fun little shack, then perfect bottom turn/cutback right on the inside-walled-up-face closer, landing perfect...six inches of water. There is nothing more I could have done.
Summary:
County Line / County Line
6'1" Al Merrick White Dove / 5'10" Southpoint
9:00-11:00AM / 3:00-5:30PM
3-5ft 15sec w/ head high sets
4/5 / 3/5
Steve / Mia
Dang fun, through and through. Rights and lefts galore. Imperfect but in a good sort of way.
Waves
Everything imaginable. Sweet clean hollow shoulders to mushy closeouts. A little luck is all you need and apparently I had some with me today.
Crowds
Bad, but not horrible. County was crowded as it always is when there's actually swell, but the little break behind the apartments was completely empty. Then suddenly as both Steve and I get waves, ten people pop up. Boo.
Weather
Sunny, warm, offshores. Water is cold, but it is winter time after all.
Forecast
Looks pretty dang good.
Eventful Stuff
"Why would you look back?"
Played around on Mia's board and had some fun waves. That thing glides more than my fish...
Wave of the Day
The wave I stole from some bald guy on a fish. I do feel bad for stealing it, but only slightly---it was undoubetdly the best wave of the day. I'm a little fuzzy on the details but it was probably one of the best waves I've had here at County, point or beach break. Multiple cutbacks, fun little shack, then perfect bottom turn/cutback right on the inside-walled-up-face closer, landing perfect...six inches of water. There is nothing more I could have done.
Summary:
County Line / County Line
6'1" Al Merrick White Dove / 5'10" Southpoint
9:00-11:00AM / 3:00-5:30PM
3-5ft 15sec w/ head high sets
4/5 / 3/5
Steve / Mia
Saturday, January 17, 2009
And it begins...
Summary
Overall pretty fun. Imperfect but certainly the potential out there. If this were a week day it would be obscene and amazing, but it isn't. Swell is building through the day
Waves
3-5ft, looking bigger at the longboardesque break. Super fun, generally good shape not too wally.
Crowds
Not fun. Lots of people, lots of longboarders snaking and normal people snaking. Tuesday and Wednesday should be good crowds though.
Weather
Pretty nice offshore flow (actual offshore at C-Street) and sunny skies. There was a little fire on the beach and some firemen around it, not sure what's up with that.
Forecast
Firing. Looks great.
Eventful Stuff
Crowds. Not going to Norcal this weekend. Mia & Eric collision and board dink. Yuck.
Wave of the Day
Of course the only legit barrel I get today is when I'm on Steve's fishy, which was fun but makes me sad---my board likes those waves!
The actual wave of the day was probably only a little 4ft wave that I paddled for, probably a dozen pumps and three or four cutbacks and a half wrap-around. There were lots of comparable fun waves, but that one was a nice long fast ride.
Summary:
C-Street, Ventura
6'1" Al Merrick White Dove
7:00-8:30
3-5ft 16sec w/ bigger sets
3/5
Mia/Eric/Eric/Steve/Courtney
Overall pretty fun. Imperfect but certainly the potential out there. If this were a week day it would be obscene and amazing, but it isn't. Swell is building through the day
Waves
3-5ft, looking bigger at the longboardesque break. Super fun, generally good shape not too wally.
Crowds
Not fun. Lots of people, lots of longboarders snaking and normal people snaking. Tuesday and Wednesday should be good crowds though.
Weather
Pretty nice offshore flow (actual offshore at C-Street) and sunny skies. There was a little fire on the beach and some firemen around it, not sure what's up with that.
Forecast
Firing. Looks great.
Eventful Stuff
Crowds. Not going to Norcal this weekend. Mia & Eric collision and board dink. Yuck.
Wave of the Day
Of course the only legit barrel I get today is when I'm on Steve's fishy, which was fun but makes me sad---my board likes those waves!
The actual wave of the day was probably only a little 4ft wave that I paddled for, probably a dozen pumps and three or four cutbacks and a half wrap-around. There were lots of comparable fun waves, but that one was a nice long fast ride.
Summary:
C-Street, Ventura
6'1" Al Merrick White Dove
7:00-8:30
3-5ft 16sec w/ bigger sets
3/5
Mia/Eric/Eric/Steve/Courtney
Monday, January 12, 2009
I've been bad about keeping up to date...
Retro for Thursday
Summary
Mostly because it has been so lackluster that I'm not particularly enthused about it.
Waves
Inconsistent. Ranging in size from thigh high to chest high. The good size waves were super fun, no contest, but with lags of 20 min +, the waiting was not so much.
Crowds
Deceptively crowded.
Weather
Sunny, warm, offshore breeze.
Forecast
Looks good, oh yea!
Eventful Stuff
Just some ridiculous people.
Wave of the Day
Right at the point, just over 4ft racing against the wall since I dropped far inside, but I made it, pocketed for a few seconds, two cutbacks, a wraparound. Not spectacular by normal surfing means, but certainly so given conditions for the day.
Summary:
County Line, Ventura
5'10" Southpoint
10:30-12:30
1-3ft w/ bigger sets 16sec
2/5
Mia
Summary
Mostly because it has been so lackluster that I'm not particularly enthused about it.
Waves
Inconsistent. Ranging in size from thigh high to chest high. The good size waves were super fun, no contest, but with lags of 20 min +, the waiting was not so much.
Crowds
Deceptively crowded.
Weather
Sunny, warm, offshore breeze.
Forecast
Looks good, oh yea!
Eventful Stuff
Just some ridiculous people.
Wave of the Day
Right at the point, just over 4ft racing against the wall since I dropped far inside, but I made it, pocketed for a few seconds, two cutbacks, a wraparound. Not spectacular by normal surfing means, but certainly so given conditions for the day.
Summary:
County Line, Ventura
5'10" Southpoint
10:30-12:30
1-3ft w/ bigger sets 16sec
2/5
Mia
Ummm...nope.
Retro for Saturday
Summary
C-Street looked better than County, but oh well. Yuck. County was small, weak, and the winds were not cooperative.
Waves
Lets not kid ourselves here. Lacking is being generous. Small and inconsistent. Steve and I found a nice little peak on the beachbreak to ourselves for awhile, but that only lasted for twenty minutes.
Crowds
For being no waves, crowded. For the weekend, nothing.
Weather
Sunny, warm, on/offshore mixed.
Forecast
Sucky.
Eventful Stuff
Nothing.
Wave of the Day
Nice little left, two backside cutbacks. Not impressive but meh.
Summary:
County Line, Ventura
6'1" Al Merrick White Dove
8:30-10AM
1-3ft 14sec
2-/5
Mia, Steve
Summary
C-Street looked better than County, but oh well. Yuck. County was small, weak, and the winds were not cooperative.
Waves
Lets not kid ourselves here. Lacking is being generous. Small and inconsistent. Steve and I found a nice little peak on the beachbreak to ourselves for awhile, but that only lasted for twenty minutes.
Crowds
For being no waves, crowded. For the weekend, nothing.
Weather
Sunny, warm, on/offshore mixed.
Forecast
Sucky.
Eventful Stuff
Nothing.
Wave of the Day
Nice little left, two backside cutbacks. Not impressive but meh.
Summary:
County Line, Ventura
6'1" Al Merrick White Dove
8:30-10AM
1-3ft 14sec
2-/5
Mia, Steve
Friday, January 9, 2009
Go Socal! (AKA the land of no waves)
Summary
Small. Difficult to catch waves. Inconsistent. Nothing compared to winter up north.
Waves
Yuck.
Crowds
Small. Not very good.
Weather
Sunny, warm, offshores. Missing the one integral part---waves.
Forecast
Sucky.
Eventful Stuff
None.
Wave of the Day
Laugh? Nothing spectacular by any means.
Summary:
County Line, Ventura
6'1" Al Merrick White Dove
10:30-12:30
1-3ft 14sec
2-/5
Mia
Small. Difficult to catch waves. Inconsistent. Nothing compared to winter up north.
Waves
Yuck.
Crowds
Small. Not very good.
Weather
Sunny, warm, offshores. Missing the one integral part---waves.
Forecast
Sucky.
Eventful Stuff
None.
Wave of the Day
Laugh? Nothing spectacular by any means.
Summary:
County Line, Ventura
6'1" Al Merrick White Dove
10:30-12:30
1-3ft 14sec
2-/5
Mia
Thursday, January 8, 2009
Dolphins galore!
Retro post for driving down on Wednesday.
Summary
Fun imperfection. If the tide were a big lower, the swell a little smaller, and everything else the same, Carmel would be perfect today. Oh well.
Waves
Great size, not so great shape. Because of the early morning high high tide the steep waves were made even steeper. Basically selectivity was very important today because 9ft closeouts and super shallow water are not a very good combination. However, the occasional real shoulder would roll through, and my oh my those are fun.
Crowds
Solo sesh.
Weather
Sunny, beautiful, crisp clean air, pretty hefty offshores.
Forecast
Boo! Does not look good anymore. Boo Southern California waves!
Eventful Stuff
Dolphins galore. A pod of at least 10 dolphins was swimming around the beach for the better part of my session. These guys really are social little critters, swimming around me, under me, popping up five feet from me, doing little flips, absolutely ridiculous. Oh, and there was a little baby dolphin with a little baby fin and baby flippers.
Wave of the Day
Pretty much every wave was the same---drop, straight for speed, bottom turn, straighten out, two second barrel, get completely smashed. The dolphins looked like they were doing the same thing as me (except having a little more luck getting good ones!)
Summary:
Carmel Beach, Monterey
6'2" Al Merrick White Dove
7:15-9:15
6-9ft, 12sec, occasional bigger monster set
Offshore
3/5
Summary
Fun imperfection. If the tide were a big lower, the swell a little smaller, and everything else the same, Carmel would be perfect today. Oh well.
Waves
Great size, not so great shape. Because of the early morning high high tide the steep waves were made even steeper. Basically selectivity was very important today because 9ft closeouts and super shallow water are not a very good combination. However, the occasional real shoulder would roll through, and my oh my those are fun.
Crowds
Solo sesh.
Weather
Sunny, beautiful, crisp clean air, pretty hefty offshores.
Forecast
Boo! Does not look good anymore. Boo Southern California waves!
Eventful Stuff
Dolphins galore. A pod of at least 10 dolphins was swimming around the beach for the better part of my session. These guys really are social little critters, swimming around me, under me, popping up five feet from me, doing little flips, absolutely ridiculous. Oh, and there was a little baby dolphin with a little baby fin and baby flippers.
Wave of the Day
Pretty much every wave was the same---drop, straight for speed, bottom turn, straighten out, two second barrel, get completely smashed. The dolphins looked like they were doing the same thing as me (except having a little more luck getting good ones!)
Summary:
Carmel Beach, Monterey
6'2" Al Merrick White Dove
7:15-9:15
6-9ft, 12sec, occasional bigger monster set
Offshore
3/5
Wednesday, January 7, 2009
I wish I could have ended on a better note...
I'm bad about posting on time when I'm home. Retro post for Tuesday January 6
Summary
...but the past few weeks of winter have overall been lacking. If it's good conditions there's no good size, and vice-versa. Today held the power, but the tides mixed with funky storm chop transformed the surf from doable to craptastic.
Waves
Initially fun, steep shoulders. Not too workable, but certainly a good drop and bottom turn, then tiny carve to stay on the mush pile of whitewater. A few hollow shoulders but really nothing like what the past few days offshores have done.
Crowds
Two other guys out. The shortboarder left just before it got to the unrideable phase, the longboarder stayed out longer than I.
Weather
Sunny, beautiful, no fog, cross/offshore winds. Guess there's a little something of some storm swell mixed in because the ocean got choppy as the tide was falling.
Forecast
Looks good up North. Looks good down South.
Eventful Stuff
Nothing.
Wave of the Day
Really nothing spectacular. This is the kind of summer crap that plagues the north, and it's frustrating. Even on the fish the waves were deceptive, the storminess of the ocean deceptively making non-waves seem like waves, and waves seem like nothing. WOTD would probably be a left, straight shot pretty much just trying to get out of the mush to the outside. I did and then the wave hit the inside and spit me out. Nothing spectacular.
Summary:
Dillon Beach, Marin County
5'10" Southpoint
7:30-9:00AM
4-6ft 14sec (but crap average wave period of like 5sec)
Cross
2-/5
Summary
...but the past few weeks of winter have overall been lacking. If it's good conditions there's no good size, and vice-versa. Today held the power, but the tides mixed with funky storm chop transformed the surf from doable to craptastic.
Waves
Initially fun, steep shoulders. Not too workable, but certainly a good drop and bottom turn, then tiny carve to stay on the mush pile of whitewater. A few hollow shoulders but really nothing like what the past few days offshores have done.
Crowds
Two other guys out. The shortboarder left just before it got to the unrideable phase, the longboarder stayed out longer than I.
Weather
Sunny, beautiful, no fog, cross/offshore winds. Guess there's a little something of some storm swell mixed in because the ocean got choppy as the tide was falling.
Forecast
Looks good up North. Looks good down South.
Eventful Stuff
Nothing.
Wave of the Day
Really nothing spectacular. This is the kind of summer crap that plagues the north, and it's frustrating. Even on the fish the waves were deceptive, the storminess of the ocean deceptively making non-waves seem like waves, and waves seem like nothing. WOTD would probably be a left, straight shot pretty much just trying to get out of the mush to the outside. I did and then the wave hit the inside and spit me out. Nothing spectacular.
Summary:
Dillon Beach, Marin County
5'10" Southpoint
7:30-9:00AM
4-6ft 14sec (but crap average wave period of like 5sec)
Cross
2-/5
Monday, January 5, 2009
Let's go surfing now!
Summary
Pretty good, pretty fun. Not perfect, but I sure as heck which I could have gotten a longer surf in the morning.
Waves
Inconsistent, but good shape and OK size. Definitely some super fun shoulders, some decent little coverups. A little mushy but not too.
Crowds
Not another soul.
Weather
Beautiful sunny morning. Cloudy and overcast afternoon/evening. Strong offshores throughout the day.
Forecast
Good Tuesday and Wednesday. Size, conditions, period, everything.
Eventful Stuff
I locked myself out of my car in the evening, forcing me to run for ten minutes from the beach all the way up the hill. That's pretty much it.
Wave of the Day
Not going to get too specific, but there were coverups right and left both morning and evening. Conditions made the morning overall a bit more manageable, though smaller.
Summary:
Dillon Beach, Marin County---DB
5'10" Southpoint---Southpoint
7:30-8:45AM---4:45-5:30PM
3-5ft 16sec---3-5 16sec
Offshore all day
3/5
Pretty good, pretty fun. Not perfect, but I sure as heck which I could have gotten a longer surf in the morning.
Waves
Inconsistent, but good shape and OK size. Definitely some super fun shoulders, some decent little coverups. A little mushy but not too.
Crowds
Not another soul.
Weather
Beautiful sunny morning. Cloudy and overcast afternoon/evening. Strong offshores throughout the day.
Forecast
Good Tuesday and Wednesday. Size, conditions, period, everything.
Eventful Stuff
I locked myself out of my car in the evening, forcing me to run for ten minutes from the beach all the way up the hill. That's pretty much it.
Wave of the Day
Not going to get too specific, but there were coverups right and left both morning and evening. Conditions made the morning overall a bit more manageable, though smaller.
Summary:
Dillon Beach, Marin County---DB
5'10" Southpoint---Southpoint
7:30-8:45AM---4:45-5:30PM
3-5ft 16sec---3-5 16sec
Offshore all day
3/5
I dislike low/falling tides right now...
RETRO POST for Sunday the 4th
Summary
Not bad, but not great. Tides have been sucky these past few days.
Waves
Initially the morning was pretty dang fun. The first few waves were good shape, steep, fun shoulders. Unfortunately after about fifteen minutes as the tide progressively dropped, the waves mushed up and water conditions chopped up.
Low tide at DB is usually mushy crap, but the afternoon was actually as opposite as you can get. I gave big blue a chance to prove itself, and it did not fail. Waves out by a far out sandbar were pretty walled up, but super steep, nice little barreling shoulders. Quick, but super fun.
Crowds
A handful in the early morning, and a bigger handful in the late morning.
Weather
Cold, chilly, breezy offshores all day.
Forecast
Small Monday, big Tuesday, big Wednesday, good conditions throughout.
Eventful Stuff
None.
Wave of the Day
Afternoon sessions waves were ridiculously fun. Steep slabs, pretty much straight shots (though if I were on a more maneuverable board there would have been some sick cutbacks...)
Summary:
Dillon Beach, Marin County
5'10" Southpoint
7:30-9:00AM
4-5ft 10sec
Offshore
2/5
Dillon Beach, Marin County
7'6" Al Merrick M13
11:30AM-1:00PM
4-6ft 10sec
Offshore
3/5
Summary
Not bad, but not great. Tides have been sucky these past few days.
Waves
Initially the morning was pretty dang fun. The first few waves were good shape, steep, fun shoulders. Unfortunately after about fifteen minutes as the tide progressively dropped, the waves mushed up and water conditions chopped up.
Low tide at DB is usually mushy crap, but the afternoon was actually as opposite as you can get. I gave big blue a chance to prove itself, and it did not fail. Waves out by a far out sandbar were pretty walled up, but super steep, nice little barreling shoulders. Quick, but super fun.
Crowds
A handful in the early morning, and a bigger handful in the late morning.
Weather
Cold, chilly, breezy offshores all day.
Forecast
Small Monday, big Tuesday, big Wednesday, good conditions throughout.
Eventful Stuff
None.
Wave of the Day
Afternoon sessions waves were ridiculously fun. Steep slabs, pretty much straight shots (though if I were on a more maneuverable board there would have been some sick cutbacks...)
Summary:
Dillon Beach, Marin County
5'10" Southpoint
7:30-9:00AM
4-5ft 10sec
Offshore
2/5
Dillon Beach, Marin County
7'6" Al Merrick M13
11:30AM-1:00PM
4-6ft 10sec
Offshore
3/5
Saturday, January 3, 2009
All I want is some long period groundswell! Please?
Summary
Crap. It looked crappy before I went out. It was less crappy than it looked, but still pretty darn crappy. Seriously, that's it.
Waves
Wall upon wall of white water.
Crowds
None whatsoever.
Weather
Decent little cross/offshore winds. Mostly clear, but dang cold morning.
Forecast
Boo on bad windswell and poor tides! Drive down to Socal on Wednesday looks good, but I'm not too optimistic about the waves between now and then.
Eventful Stuff
None whatsoever.
Wave of the Day
What waves? I think there was one super mushy crap one.
Summary:
Dillon Beach, Marin County
5'10" Southpoint
7:30-8:30AM
5-6ft 9sec
Offshore
1/5
Crap. It looked crappy before I went out. It was less crappy than it looked, but still pretty darn crappy. Seriously, that's it.
Waves
Wall upon wall of white water.
Crowds
None whatsoever.
Weather
Decent little cross/offshore winds. Mostly clear, but dang cold morning.
Forecast
Boo on bad windswell and poor tides! Drive down to Socal on Wednesday looks good, but I'm not too optimistic about the waves between now and then.
Eventful Stuff
None whatsoever.
Wave of the Day
What waves? I think there was one super mushy crap one.
Summary:
Dillon Beach, Marin County
5'10" Southpoint
7:30-8:30AM
5-6ft 9sec
Offshore
1/5
Thursday, January 1, 2009
Not a bad way to start the year!
Summary
Some beautiful conditions and mediocre waves for the new year! Hopefully the first of many to come!
Waves
As afternoons almost always are here, conditions are mushy. Outside waves bowl up on the inside and get dang fun. The only part of this that really sucks is the fact that once the wave hits the steep drop (inside) the waves spit you out in 6 inches of water.
Crowds
Not. Two other guys out.
Weather
Truly there could not be a more beautiful winter day. Clear, sunny, almost windless, truly warm. Winds were nonexistent for most of the day, light N/NW winds off and on during my surf session.
Forecast
Mediocre up here. Decent size poor conditions. Mid period groundswell, so shape should be pretty decent in the morning before winds pick up. Tides should cooperate as well. The drive back down South on Tuesday or Wednesday should give some pretty decent waves. I'm thinking Santa Cruz to Carmel, not sure where yet.
Eventful Stuff
New Years Day rocks. Usher in 2009 with a new iPhone, some DOTA, and surfing.
Wave of the Day
Some pretty fun good size walls! Earlier on (before the tide got too low) there were even the occasional hollow shoulders. As for this wave of the day, one of those big ol' hollow walls, decent ride then tossed and spit around the sand.
Summary:
Dillon Beach, Marin County
5'10" Southpoint
3:00-4:45PM
3-4ft 10sec
Still-> Onshores
2/5
Some beautiful conditions and mediocre waves for the new year! Hopefully the first of many to come!
Waves
As afternoons almost always are here, conditions are mushy. Outside waves bowl up on the inside and get dang fun. The only part of this that really sucks is the fact that once the wave hits the steep drop (inside) the waves spit you out in 6 inches of water.
Crowds
Not. Two other guys out.
Weather
Truly there could not be a more beautiful winter day. Clear, sunny, almost windless, truly warm. Winds were nonexistent for most of the day, light N/NW winds off and on during my surf session.
Forecast
Mediocre up here. Decent size poor conditions. Mid period groundswell, so shape should be pretty decent in the morning before winds pick up. Tides should cooperate as well. The drive back down South on Tuesday or Wednesday should give some pretty decent waves. I'm thinking Santa Cruz to Carmel, not sure where yet.
Eventful Stuff
New Years Day rocks. Usher in 2009 with a new iPhone, some DOTA, and surfing.
Wave of the Day
Some pretty fun good size walls! Earlier on (before the tide got too low) there were even the occasional hollow shoulders. As for this wave of the day, one of those big ol' hollow walls, decent ride then tossed and spit around the sand.
Summary:
Dillon Beach, Marin County
5'10" Southpoint
3:00-4:45PM
3-4ft 10sec
Still-> Onshores
2/5
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
