That was some swell

Summary
Decent sized swell was here. Today is the leftovers...but there is still some size and power to it. Not so great of shape, but the potential exists. As such the surf session had waves, but most of them were pretty painful closeouts.
Waves
Westwards was the land of closeout barrels this morning. Head high or bigger sets. A few decent shoulders, some pretty fast lefts, lots of barrels. Staircase was pretty sweet, some decent chest plus sets. I didn't pay for parking though, and saw a few parks cars wandering about...so I booked it after a decent little taste.
Crowds
A handful of annoying kids at Westwards. About a dozen others scattered at the peaks around Staircase. Not bad given the past weekend.
Weather
Overcast and chilly. It got warmer as the morning progressed.
Forecast
Not. Dead. I'm OOC for at least a weak after this. Boo wisdom teeth.
Eventful Stuff
Heading North tomorrow.
Wave of the Day
One of the few waves I got at Staircase. A good size right popped up, steep drop, cutback, down the face, shoot across the shoulder, another cutback into the closeout. Not spectacular but it was a pretty fun decent little wave.

Summary:
Westwards, Malibu
6'1" Al Merrick MX
6:00-7:15AM
4-6ft
2/5

Staircase, Malibu
6'1" Al Merrick MX
7:30-8:15
3-4ft
2+/5

Big waves are fun!

Summary
Today was a blast. Much shorter session than yesterday, overall quite a different session. The waves were bigger but much less consistent, making for a more manageable surf session. Of course, whenever I was inside it was super consistent.
Waves
Head high plus, easily some 3-4ft overhead sets, for sure some bigger monster sets. Pretty decent shape, some fun rides, big bottom turns, giant cutbacks.
Crowds
Less than Friday, surprisingly. Still about twenty out, probably more at times. Overall more casual surfers than the day before...that or people were being much less aggressive. Probably both.
Weather
Overcast, chilly, pretty warm water temps.
Forecast
Looks good til I head North. Big Sunday (but I'm at Comic Con)...
Eventful Stuff
Lost boards? At least two people completely lost their boards. One guy's leash broke, the other had an empty board bag. Pretty ridiculous and almost funny. That said...some pretty mad waves. Sick rides, workable shoulders. Generally walled up / closed out on the inside, but if you shoot along the face enough you can escape the section...maybe.
Wave of the Day
There were lots of pretty bomb waves. There was a big set when I just happened to be sitting extra far outside. Probably 10-12 ft, pretty darn big. I made the drop and toodled around the wave all the way inside, up and down. It didn't section too much, so there was a nice little wall to work with almost the whole time.

Summary:
Latigo Point, Malibu
5'10" Southpoint
5:45-8:15
5-8ft w/ 10ft sets
3+/5

Yes. The answer is yes. You want to go surfing here.

Summary
Hey-o! What a baller session. Seriously. Definitely the best session I have had since finals week. Good size, good shape, super fun. Pretty much perfect.
Waves
4-6ft non-set waves, 6-9ft set waves. Beautiful. There were tons of longboarders so anyone on a shortish board had to sit pretty deep---which meant the beginning of the wave would section pretty frequently, but no biggie. There were plenty of waves, all giving good rides, lots of turning, wraps, a few cutbacks.
Crowds
Latigo was as crowded as it gets. 30 people out including 5 SUPers. Needless to say, there was no parking at Surfrider at 6:00AM. The least crowded actual spot in Malibu for sure. Tomorrow is going to be FIRING. Shortboard is the call perhaps...there is some potential for fun.
Weather
Overcast, clowdy early. Sun started to come out as the morning progressed. Pretty chilly, but certainly far from cold.
Forecast
Good. Tomorrow is bigger than today, Sunday is chest-head high, Monday probably around chest high. By then the crowds should be quite a bit more managable. Yay!
Eventful Stuff
There was a barreling break infront of the appartments/houses infront of the gas station. It looked sick, and I was tempted to test it out, but I've seen the rockyness below right there. Wipeout would not be fun. Everywhere in Malibu is firing. Westwards is probably ten feet giant closeout barrels. I can't even imagine. Needless to say, the waves today were mighty fun. The crowds relatively big but honestly as non-aggro, chill of a crowd as you could get. Lots of yielding waves to others / waving them on.
Wave of the Day
Uhm yea. The last wave I had was by far the best of the day. 7 or 8 ft face, pretty big but not giant, sweet drop, bottom turn and wrap, then shooting up and down the face for almost two minutes, from as far outside as the waves were breaking all the way in to the far end of the appartments by the rocks at the inner part of the shorebreak. Effing sick ride. Those are the waves that make me want to have one of those cameras...even though it wouldn't have made it.

Summary:
Latigo Point, Malibu
5'10" Southpoint
6:00-10:00
4-6ft w/ 9ft+sets
4+/5

Delicious

Summary
Every spot was fun in its own way. Each was pretty much done by the end of the session. Good consistency, good size, good everything.
Waves
Westwards was super hollow, very quick side drop barrels. Zuma had some better shoulders. Latigo had sick long rides, some sweet walls. Overall the trio made a good diverse combo.
Crowds
None at Westwards, a few out at Zuma, none for the first 45min at Latigo, then about a dozen went out (and the waves disappeared...)
Weather
Beautiful in every respect. The morning was a little overcast. By the afternoon the sun was out and shining, the water mighty warm. The wind was out.
Forecast
Looks glorious. Head high Latigo tomorrow morning...and Saturday...
Eventful Stuff
Lots of barrels at Westwards...those were fun. I slashed my hand on a rock at Latigo. It bled a lot. That wasn't fun. Latigo was really good until it wasn't. For some reason as the tide was falling the waves just disappeared. Boo on that. Before that there were a few bomb sets.
Wave of the Day
Latigo waves for sure. There were a few "best waves"...all 4ft+, sweet drops, cutbacks, slow turns. With the wind some of the power was drained out of the waves, but there was enough power to shred almost all waves.

Summary:
Westwards, Malibu
6'1" Al Merrick MX
6:45-8:15AM
3-5ft walls of closeoutyness
2/5

Zuma, Malibu
6'1" Al Merrick MX
8:30-9:15AM
3-4ft
2/5

Latigo Point, Malibu
5'10" Southpoint
3:00-5:00PM
3-5ft
3/5

Or Westwards today...

Summary
And it was good. Every wave a sick barrel. Set waves up to shoulder high. Significantly bigger than any other break around. Good choice for sure. Oh, and I have now surfed six spots in the past week. Ridiculous.
Waves
Waist to chest high with shoulder high sets. Good size, fast, good shape (though typical Westwards closeouty shape). There were a few cutbacks, mostly just sick vertical drops and barrels.
Crowds
There were a handful surfing one of the other peaks. There were two other sharing my peak, much much farther inside.
Weather
Sunny, warm, board shorts weather. I started a little too early though...before the sun came over the hill, so I was chilly.
Forecast
Beautiful. Perfection. People talk about combo swell all the time...doesn't matter. It's all about the sandbars here. I anticipate MACKING Westwards and PERFECT head high Latigo. High expectations, starting tomorrow afternoon.
Eventful Stuff
2" fin slash on my foot. That didn't feel good. Other than that just some loud obnoxious teenagers.
Wave of the Day
One right and one left each. Both were 5ft bombs, beautiful drops, the right had a perfectly timed and placed cutback, the left had a perfect whole-ride cover up. Beautifully fun.

Summary:
Westwards, Malibu
6'1" Al Merrick MX
7:15-8:30AM
3-4ft w/ 5ft sets long period
3/5

Zuma, Malibu
6'1" Al Merrick MX
8:45-9:15AM
2-3ft w/ 4ft sets
1+/5

Westwards this weekend...I am so psyched

Summary
I rocked some waves today, at both places. Latigo is just so rippable. I have the perfect board for this wave...there is no comparison. Thick rails rock. I could have used the MX at Zuma...that would have been a blast. And it will be tomorrow.
Waves
Decent size, decent shape. The afternoon was rather windy, but Latigo held its own. A little mushy but still super fun. The shape was a little bit blown out and wish washy, but still easy to catch/rip. Zuma held its own in the morning. Some decent shaped, decent sized sets. Pretty closeouty, but when isn't it? It's the gems that rock, and gems there were. Almost all lefts.
Crowds
There were probably a hundred scattered up and down the beach at Zuma. I had my own peak so it didn't matter. Latigo had a handful out, once people saw me ripping they came out. F paddleboarders.
Weather
Beautiful. Morning was clear, crisp, and delicious. Afternoon was sunny, warm, and eye-burning, face-reddening amazing.
Forecast
Yes. I'm in love. With multiple things. Including the upcoming week of surf. Wed/Thur mornings wherever, Thursday afternoon at Latigo, Fri morning Westwards, Fri afternoon Latigo, Sat morn Latigo, Sat afternoon ?, Sun morning ? San Diego?, Mon morning Trestles? I approve. Oh, and head high everywhere Thursday afternoon on. Hell yes.
Eventful Stuff
I'm in love. My life is amazing. I wish I didn't have to have surgery in a week, but you can't win all the time. This weekend is going to be SPEC FRIGGEN TACULAR.
Wave of the Day
Beautiful Latigo rides from the outside in to the shore. A little mushier than usual, but certainly still rippable. A few 4ft gems for sure.


Summary:
Zuma, Malibu
5'10" Southpoint
3-4ft
2+/5

Latigo Point, Malibu
5'10" Southpoint
4:15-5:45PM
2-3ft w/ 4ft sets
2+/5

I hate people who complain

Summary
Shit man, when are the waves NOT too small here in Socal? If you're going to complain about something, complain about something just, like crappy weather (which it was not) or horrible traffic, but let the ocean be. Be content. Don't argue with perfection. You will lose.
Waves
Truly beautiful, truly fun. Long rides, lots of chance for some little turns, some super fast fish-sliding. Some real opportunity here. The insides waves were a blast, the outside set waves held up for 45+secs all the way through the inside wall. An absolute blast. Given more size (duh...) conditions would have been even more fun.
Crowds
There were two others when I paddled out, sitting a lot farther outside. I was chilling a lot closer, getting the smaller little fun waves (which were super consistent...) As more people came the attitude of the spot spiraled downwards. A bunch of jerks out tonight in my mind.
Weather
Sunny, warm, little NW breeze. Absolutely glorious. Board shorts...eyea!
Forecast
Looks small, but there should be a little swell through next week. Yay! Head high next weekend. Good. Maybe I'll even surf Trestles on the way back from San Diego...
Eventful Stuff
What, like the a-hole whose first words to me were, "I have the next wave." Seriously, there's three people out here, you can have the next ten waves you can get. That's why there are multi-wave sets. Just chill, and don't f with my fun. It's a lineup sure, but it's also Malibu on the weekend. Don't complain when there are three other people out on a PERFECT POINT BREAK. Karma = some guy dropping in on him and slashing his nose off. I do feel pitty, but that's what shitty Malibu-aggro attitude gets you. Calm the f down and don't ruin the fun for everyone else.
That's the eventful stuff of the day =)
Wave of the Day
Which one? I love thinking that. One of the four foot beauties, holding for near a minute from the outside all the way in to the little shorepound. Up and down the face, back and forth, sliding all around, a few little sections, but pretty much perfect fun.


Summary:
Latigo Point, Malibu
5'10" Southpoint
8:30-11:00
3-4ft consistently, occasional bigger sets
3+/5

Some exploration...and expectant greatness!

Summary
Latigo. I truly do love you. Even on a Saturday morning, with a well known (though rather small) swell, there is no one out there surfing. Zeros is pretty chill, but the swell was too weak / tide not low enough for it to be working.
Waves
I'll veto discussing Zeros because it was pretty mediocre. Latigo was baller. No one out, beautiful little 2-3 ft 20 sec rides at the shore break, 3-4 ft surfing farther out at the point. Absolutely ridiculously fun. Super consistent.
Crowds
Zeros had about fifteen others. Latigo had none for the first hour. After that a handful of others came out. Not crowded by any means.
Weather
Sunny, warm, beautiful. I wore the spring suit, and it was somewaht chilly.
Forecast
Looks somewhat small. Looks BALLER next weekend. I am quite excited. Should be head high with perfect weather. Yes.
Eventful Stuff
Paddleboarders suck. They can surf, that's fine, but I hate them. It's just so frustrating. In my mind, at least be courteous and not go for EVERY wave you can get. By that I mean, if you're going for set waves, go for set waves. If you're going for small little no-one-else-can-catch-them-waves, go for those. Not fair to anyone to go for both.
Wave of the Day
Tons of fun waves. Some of those inside waves were bomb. The outside waves were far longer/technically better rides. Lots of sliding up and down the wave, a few wrap arounds. The decent sized waves even had a little punch to them. Not fast, but certainly fun. Boo high tide killing them all!


Summary:
Zeroes, Malibu
6'1" Al Merrick MX
7:00-7:45
3-4ft inconsistent
1+/5

Latigo Point, Malibu
5'10" Southpoint
8:30-11:00
3-4ft consistently, occasional bigger sets
3+/5

...fun Leo Carrillo? Seriously?

Summary
Seriously though. Some of the most fun waves I've ever had here. Sunny, warm enough for boardshorts, lots of kelp, lots of fun. Some serious potential, and some seriously shredded waves.
Waves
A few bowly sections. Certainly once the wave hits the inside it walls up really nice perfect for a little finisher. I was on the fish so the potential was limited, but the waves were relatively mushy (though surprisingly super fun...) Good choice. Everything else looked completely blown out (Zuma/Westwards) or not fun (County).
Crowds
At County there certainly was. One guy at Leo. One friggen guy is it. We were both like, "Wtf, this is as good as Leo gets...why the hell is no one else out?" Although not complaining...
A few more others came out, pretty much none of them could surf so the break was still pretty much ours.
Weather
Beautiful! Sunny, breezy, a nice little beach crowd. Couldn't ask for more...although you could ask for less wind. It was pretty crossy here though, so it didn't kill the waves at all.
Forecast
Looks pretty optimistic. Waves through next weekend. Late Thursday/Friday there's a big swell coming...head high for sure. Yay!
Eventful Stuff
Crazy guy? Comes out, mumbling strange shit. Kind of reminded me of the crazy, lonely homeless guys who cruise up and down the coast.
Oh, I'm feeling pretty dang punky today. I needed to get some water time, it always makes me feel better (especially when it's so damn fun!)
Wave of the Day
There were so many fun bowly little drops right on the rock. Honestly I had half a dozen take me all the way inside. There were bunches of turns and wraps, a few completely forced coverups...quite fun waves. All the 30+sec waves qualify for this category...


Summary:
Leo Carrillo, Malibu
5'10" Southpoint
9:00-11:15AM
3-4ft w/ 5ft + sets
3+/5

...want...bigger...waves

Summary
Beautiful, but lacking surf.
Waves
Small. Inconsistent. Surfable, but I would have been better off on a longboard. I was fine on the very very inconsistent set waves...but those were every twenty minutes, if lucky.
Crowds
There were a handful of others out. By the end of my session there was one other out at 1st. That goes to show how lacking it was.
Weather
Sunny. Warm. A slight breeze (cross shore) but really not bad.
Forecast
Looks meh. Should be bigger and more fun than today, but still overall rather lacking.
Eventful Stuff
Nothing whatsoever.
Wave of the Day
Pretty lacking. All rights (obviously...) Nice little 2 1/2 ft wave, fun drop, cutback into the face, shooting along until the section closes out. As I said, pretty lacking.


Summary:
Surfrider, Malibu
5'10" Southpoint
7:15-8:45
1-2ft w/ a few 3ft sets, inconsistent
1/5

Beautiful morning before a long, rather unpleasant drive...

Summary
I have still not left because I don't really feel like driving for seven hours right now...but I did manage to get a little morning surf in. Not the best surf in the world, but at least it was pretty.
Waves
Small, most all less than chest high. Not great shape, pretty mushy and small, but once you get to the inside the waves wall up for a decent finisher slash.
Crowds
Not. Solo. Some others came out after I finished my session.
Weather
Sunny, offshore breeze, beautiful.
Forecast
SoCal looks mediocre. NorCal looks mediocre. I am hopeful for some surf in the next month sometime.
Eventful Stuff
Only my surf buddy Mr. Sea Lion
Wave of the Day
Mushy right. Straight pumping drop, shoot right along the face, straight pumps, walls up on the inside, little whack-a-face finisher as the wave closes out.


Summary:
Dillon Beach, Marin County
5'10" Southpoint
7:00AM-8:00AM
2-3ft w/ 4ft sets
1+/5

So beautiful...

And warm. I love home, especially if there is surf (even if it's not particularly good...)

Summary
Pretty weak and crumbly surf. A little breezy but not blown out. Sun was out, setting, but beautiful.
Waves
Small, crumbly. There was occasionally enough shape for a decent little ride. Unfortunately almost all of those were pretty straight shots with pseudo-fish pumps just to stay on them. Inside they would wall up and close out, so there was a chance for a little finisher on the end of most waves.
Crowds
There were some other people on the beach...but none in the ocean else me.
Weather
Spectacular. Not too windy given the afternoon...spectacular, gorgeous afternoon.
Forecast
Norcal gets some warm, windless days and decent windswell. Socal looks to be getting some minor south swell over the next two weeks...so I'm optimistic! Time to buy a kiteboard =)
Eventful Stuff
New car time...
Wave of the Day
The last little wave I got towards the end. Pretty weak start, but I paddle in to the chest high set wave. A few little straight pumps, I get to turn right and shoot along the mushy face for awhile---I give it a few pumps, then decide to mess around and switch feet before it died.


Summary:
Dillon Beach, Marin County
5'10" Southpoint
6:30PM-7:15PM
3ft w/ 4ft sets
1+/5

Saturday morn

Retro post...

right before a long lay-away...boo wind!