Not a bad way to end the year!

Summary
From sucky to fun. Life would have been better if I slept in for another hour and went then. Then again I was under the guise that I was off to work today, apparently not.
Waves
Pre-low tide, major sucky mush that was hard to pull into even on the fish. Once the tide started to rise a bit all got better. Certainly not perfect, but the occasional beautiful hollow shoulder would sweep through. Super bowly (and fun) inside if you pick the right one. They ended up getting pretty good and fun, decently steep drops and definitely a cutback or two, better than average for at least awhile.
Crowds
No one else until the tides started to swing. After a few guys came out, a few longboarders and a few shortboarders.
Weather
Spectacular foggy morning. Truly, it's difficult to describe but as the offshores pushed the fog out to sea one could see the outline of the land as the texture of the fog. But it was foggy, and for the visible offshores there really wasn't much of a breeze (which would have cleaned up the waves quite a bit...)
Forecast
Looks pretty mediocre. Windy days through my departure, but the mornings should (hopefully) be moderately surfable.
Eventful Stuff
None.
Wave of the Day
~5ft face, clean undeveloped shoulder, I paddle and catch it, straight down the little face for some speed, cutback, then shacked for about 10 seconds all the way inside. As the wave is about to closeout I shoot for a floater but I'm just a tad too late and the lip snags my board right at the top and tosses me off. Both of the shortboarders saw me get that wave, and though it was pretty simple it was undoubtedly the hollowest wave of the day.

Summary:
Dillon Beach, Marin County
5'10" Southpoint
7:30-9:45
4-5ft 11sec
Still->Offshore
3/5

Mushy blah

Summary
Yucky tides and limited time means no real choice. Do the mush!
Waves
Mushy mush mush! Occasionally there would be a semi workable shoulder, but those were pretty rare. Fun only because even though they were mush, there was some decent power.
Crowds
It was a vicious battle for the waves out there today---one other guy.
Weather
Foggy and overcast morning. Cross shore/offshore initially (as the fog burned off) but the 46013 buoy was reading NW winds ~10knots.
Forecast
Mediocre conditions, good power. I heard some rumors (charts) reflecting actual waves for Southern California this next week.
Eventful Stuff
A pretty nasty South current. This made the inside completely unsurfable but super bowly because of the steep drop off. I rock on board choice---the fish is the right one. Oh, and the whole open gash in my shortboard...
Wave of the Day
First and last, for the third session in a row. Most of these waves were straight shots simply to get enough speed to turn. Both made it to the inside for very nice whack-a-face.

Summary:
Dillon Beach, Marin County
5'10" Southpoint
7:45-8:45
3-5ft 12sec
Crossshore
2/5

Fun mediocrity!

Summary
Not bad at all.
Waves
Decent size and shape. Not perfect, but workable lefts and rights all over the place. Pretty dang fun.
Crowds
Laugh. None.
Weather
Beautiful sunny morning, stiff hollow-wave-forming offshores.
Forecast
Mediocre conditions, decent-good size waves.
Eventful Stuff
Nil. Saw some of the same people that were surfing over the weekend.
Wave of the Day
Best waves were the first and last. Not spectacular, but certainly fun little shoulders. Pretty much just one or two cutbacks and whack-a-face finisher.

Summary:
Dillon Beach, Marin County
5'10" Southpoint
7:30-9:45
3-5ft 15sec
Offshore
2+/5

No, no, no... (but really yes!)

Summary
Pretty dang decent! Since this is the worst day forecast of the coming week, I'm dang psyched. Oh, and my surfing was not craptastic like yesterday. Maybe not great, but certainly good enough to have fun on every wave I went for.
Waves
Overall waves were a little crappier than yesterday, but I was focused and on top of most good ones. Most closeouts, but some decent shoulders would pop up every now and then. Overall the shortish period/high tide made a nice wall of closeouts right where the sand dropped off, so the paddle after every wave was either 20sec of whitewater or 5 minutes of whitewater, hit or miss. Not super hollow, but no doubt some hollow sections.
Crowds
Nah. I was alone for the first hour, then one guy that lives out here popped out, then a few other shortboarders. When I left for lunch at 11:00 there were about a dozen folks scattered up and down the beach (conditions looked pretty good with the tide maxed out and offshore winds dying down a bit.)
Weather
Slightly overcast but wholly beautiful morning. Continuing this week's whole-day SE/E offshore winds, the surf looked doable for pretty much the whole day.
Forecast
Looking nice. I'm excited for the rest of this week, although I think every session is a sub 2 hour early morning one before work. Oh work. Gotta pay for that on-the-mind Merrick MSG... or maybe there's just the June birthday, we'll see!
Eventful Stuff
One wave I started going for and decided not to, but too late. I sat up and tredded some water back as to not be sucked in. Feeling it suck in I say, "No, no, no..." outloud just before it sucks me in and spits me out. Mostly funny because there was one guy watching and I thought if I saw that happen to someone I'd laugh.
Had to end the session early so that I could clean up and head out to lunch with the Spotts. Nicks Cove though, well worth it!
Wave of the Day
I'd have to say the wave I got within five minutes of first paddling out. 4-5ft face, straight drop, gradual cutback (which really was more of just straightining out for the next little section) then little two second coverup/spitout.
After that I would say the last wave, which was basically a nice shoulder, two cutback, mini coverup 4ft wave. Not great in and of itself, but the perfect relaxing, fun wave to end the day on.

Summary:
Dillon Beach, Marin County
5'10" Southpoint
7:30-9:45
3-5ft w/6ft sets 11sec
Offshore
3/5

Well, at least the rest of the week is looking pretty good.

Summary
Bleh pretty much sums it up.
Waves
Decent size but overall pretty mushy and closeouty. There were some decent shoulders but overall nothing really amazing.
Crowds
Decent little weekend crowd. Probably 10-15 people through most of the morning, maybe more.
Weather
Beautiful clean morning, early offshores. Rain later on.
Forecast
The whole week looks pretty good, hopefully a bit more size than here today.
Eventful Stuff
Nothing. My surfing was just a bit off today. Two turns on a wave max. Eventually I just started messing around. Oh, and apparently this past Saturday there was a shark attack at Dillon Beach. Some kayaker out by the point.
Wave of the Day
Really no inspiring waves. =(

Summary:
Dillon Beach, Marin County
6'1" Al Merrick White Dove
7:45-10:45
3-5ft 12sec
Cross/offshore
2/5

Hmm...

Summary
Mediocre.
Waves
Tough suckers today. There were some good shoulders out there, just not for me. Stormswell conditions made paddling out quite an ordeal. Hit or miss, either easy or hard. Mostly hard. Highish tide meant lots of closeouts right atop you.
Crowds
Seeing as conditions were supposed to be pretty decent today, there were a handful out. Two or three on the beachbreak and four or five farther south on the sandbar. A crowded weekday.
Weather
Beautiful morning. I'm not sure I've seen the sky so dauntingly beautiful here since last winter.
Forecast
Friday on looks great. Tomorrow is a stormy morn windswell, but given what I saw out here yesterday definitely worth a shot.
Eventful Stuff
Just the current. The paddling-200-feet-north-every-time-I-take-a-wave current. I really should mess around on my 7'6" sometime. Oh how much easier paddling would be. So much easier. Oh, and I start working again tomorrow for a week. Yea.
Wave of the Day
I think I had one good wave. Actually, I think I really only had one worthwhile wave. Sweet right shoulder, straight drop, bottom turn, cutback, then pretty much straight on the walling up face. For some reason I feel like this is the same wave I've described every day for the last week. Well, it was fun.


Summary:
Dillon Beach, Marin County
6'1" Al Merrick White Dove
7:30-8:45
5-7ft with occasional bigger, 14sec stormswell
Still->Onshore
2/5

Now that's some quality windswell!

Summary
6ft 8sec waves are not fun to be duck diving under, one after another. All in all it's not too bad. Relatively high tide meant the waves had some good steep shoulders. Not long, but long enough for a turn or two on the good ones. Gimmie more!
Waves
Perhaps the best, cleanest, most fun windswell waves I remember. Shoulders right and left, a bit mushy but steep and fast breaking enough that that was no problem. Not tons of cutbacks, but most waves were one plus a whack-a-face. Fun, until the winds came.
Crowds
Aside from the giant sea lions swimming about---me, myself and I.
Weather
A break from the storm. The morning was sunny skies for the first hour, then the gloom swept in (and blew out the waves!)
Forecast
Yes. Good. Shorter period than perfect, but that means less people so it is perfect. Today's size should be the smallest in the next week. Conditions only improve with a few days of stiff offshores.
Eventful Stuff
Two guys came out right as I was leaving. I thought it was funny because they were in the water less than 15 minutes and they headed back to their cars. Guess the cold isn't for everyone.
Wave of the Day
There are a few that compete for this, but I think this would be the oh-snap!-I-made-that-drop wave, which was pretty much a really steep head high sideways drop, one pseudo-half cutback to stay on the center of the wave, and shooting right for the shoulder breaking the other way. I could have kicked out but I thought it would be fun to just go for it (when isn't it?)


Summary:
Dillon Beach, Marin County
6'1" Al Merrick White Dove
8:00-9:30
4-6ft with occasional bigger, 7-8sec windswell
Still->Onshore
3/5

Absolutely beautiful morning

Summary
Beautiful skies, clean morning offshore winds, crispy cool water, but overall lacking in the whole waves aspect of surfing.
Waves
Inconsistent sets, shape leaving quite a lot to be desired, and damn cold.
Crowds
Good joke. 1 (me) at 7:30, 3 at 8:30, 9 at 9:30.
Weather
Oh my God today is a beautiful sunny morning. The sunrise was an absolutely spectacular synergy of pink and orange streams. No fog and nice offshores through the whole morning.
Forecast
I didn't think winter could be this small here. Tomorrow gets even smaller, but it starts to pick up from there. There's a nice little storm/mix of ground and wind swell hitting up here early Monday (I'm gone to Sugar Bowl for the day...darn) and continuing through the week. Basically conditions might not be perfect but there should be at least 5+ft of swell from Monday through the weekend. Yesterday the forecast was raw 30ft storm swell on Wednesday, which models have since revised downwards to ~15ft (or 10-12 for Dillon Beach here.) Basically, looks good.
Eventful Stuff
The water is really really really cold. I should probably wear gloves, what with my hands being unable to put the key in the ignition and all...
Wave of the Day
Pretty simple, 3+ft wave, clean shoulder, simple drop, cutback, straightshot, and whack-a-face. Given the crappy waves today, it was pretty darn fun.


Summary:
Dillon Beach, Marin County
5'10" Southpoint
7:30-10:30AM
1-3ft (with a few 4ft waves) 11sec
Cross offshore
1.5/5

Yawn

Retro post for Friday.
Summary
Thank God for fish...days like today are why I got it! Sucky surf.
Waves
Pretty crappy, waves had OK power to them but they were blown out.
Crowds
Four people out 15 min before I got out, one out by the time I got there.
Weather
Overcast, crappy onshores, stormy. Yuck.
Forecast
Mediocre short term (small) but decent swell in the coming week.
Eventful Stuff
Nil.
Wave of the Day
Nothing special. I did get one decent turn on one wave.

Summary:
Dillon Beach, Marin County
5'10" Southpoint
8:30-9:15
2-4ft, 11sec
Slight onshore->stiff onshore
1/5 overall

More lovely winter days...

Summary
Fun, wish it were like this every day!
Waves
Cold. Good size, clean conditions, super bowly inside. Pretty easy to paddle out in.
Crowds
Really, it's a weekday in the winter.
Weather
Cold. Cloudy. Clean.
Forecast
Cold. Since this a retro I'll just summarize what it's been. Wednesday was so cold that the ice on the beach was literally crispy. A bit more size, clean conditions, but bloody cold. I didn't go because my mom was afraid I'd get hypothermia or frostbite or something ridiculous like that. Quite literally the coldest day I think I've ever been here at the beach---frosty ground, frozen windshield, etc.
Eventful Stuff
Nil.
Wave of the Day
Some pretty fun open faces today. Probably this would be my 5ft clean right shoulder, steep drop, bottom turn, three cutbacks, then bowled up on the inside folding ontop of me.

Summary:
Dillon Beach, Marin County
6'1" Al Merrick White Dove
7:30-10:30AM
4-5ft with 6ft sets, 12sec
Offshore-> Slight onshore
3+/5

I heart Norcal winters

Summary
...but the water here is effing cold. I wish I had bought Patagonia gloves and hood. Oh, I will. The surf was pretty fun too.
Waves
Once the tide started popping up, wave shape improved significantly. Pretty much every inside set was a good 6ft, though I would say most a good two feet overhead. Super hollow, easy to catch, can't argue with that. The paddle out was not fun. Getting caught inside was not fun. Getting a 3ft overhead non-closeout wave made it all worth it.
Crowds
Since every other break within 30 miles is either blown out, too exposed, or too sheltered, Dillon Beach today is pretty much the only option. Good sized ripable waves here means a good crowd. There were only a handful out pre-parking opening, but a good 20+ on midsized shortboards once it really opened up. What good timing with the tides too, dang.
Weather
It's wintertime. Wintertime means storms. The waves today are the result of a storm. It was raining off and on throughout the morning, and I have absolutely no idea why it's not windier than it is, but I'll take it. Oh, and it's ass cold out. Put simply, my hands got cold AFTER I got out, they were fine in the water (which is 51) but the low-mid 40's air temp plus ridiculous winds...no go. I literally had to take my wetsuit off in the shower, I couldn't grab by the time I got back to the car, and the hot water felt cold. Maybe I should wear gloves...
Forecast
Mediocre conditions (mostly due to lower period swell) with 5-8ft here at DB through the week. Tomorrow is looking better and better, but it might be just a tad too much power too early---darn doctor appointments.
Eventful Stuff
Nothing really eventful through the morning. The first hour was truly one of the crappiest surf sessions I have had. The waves there, the conditions there, but for some reason I had the hardest time. I was quite literally paddling for an hour. Thank God for my new wetsuit otherwise I gurantee my arms would be trashed by then. The rest of the session, it was super hard to get outside, but once there the waves were super fun.
Wave of the Day
8ft, clean face, popped up out of nowhere with a beautiful right shoulder. Two quick strokes and boom, I'm on it, sharp bottom turn, heavy cutback, two quick pumps and in the barreling pocket for two or three seconds before it closes out ontop of me. Thinking back to it now there was a perfect little air section, but I really like the barreled feeling.
There were a couple other similar ones too, I with I could have gotten more turns in, but most were just so steep it's hard to force more than one or two turns.

Summary:
Dillon Beach, Marin County
6'1" Al Merrick White Dove
7:30-10:30AM
6-9ft with monster sets, 14-15sec
Offshore-> Slight onshore
First hour 1/5, the rest of it 4/5

Not bad after a week off

Retro post for Friday 12/12/08
Summary
Yea, I'd take days like today every day. Uncrowded lineup, not too intense of paddle, and fun as hell waves.
Waves
Not perfect, but as close to it as you can get on a random trip back home to Northern California in the wintertime. Good size, consistent head high to three feet overhead. Most not the upper end of the spectrum, but the smaller sets have far more workable shape.
Crowds
Laugh at crowds. A Friday at Surfrider with waves like this would have both sides of PCH jam packed. Carmel had maybe 25 people at its peak just before 9. I guess I'm a good target for dropping in, because I lost count of the good waves I lost to inconsiderate people.
Weather
Pretty nice. Sunny, clouds/fog already well burnt off, slight offshore early on, then pretty hefty cross breeze.
Forecast
Looks mediocre. This weekend has too much power and raw windswell to have too much surfing. Hopefully conditions (aka storm that's about to hit up here) transform into moderate offshores early on next week as the swell drops into more managable size (6-8ft instead of 10-15ft...)
Eventful Stuff
I didn't kill myself! That's certainly a good place to start. The ocean had some fun size, some workable shoulders, and the occasional beautiful barrel on Carmel's white sand. Three boards in the car and maybe one more on the way (if I can find a cheap, good condition Tuflite midsize shortboard.) Getting up at 3AM to get up to Carmel is friggen worth it.
Wave of the Day
The one 8ft legit barrel qualifies for this. From what I remember (before it tumbled me all the way to shore) it was perfect beautiful carving shoulder, then barrels over me for about 2sec before it raped me. Most of the other super quality waves of the day were on the small end of the spectrum.

Summary:
Carmel Beach, Monterey County
6'1" Al Merrick White Dove
8:30-10:30AM
6-8ft with occasional monster sets, 14sec
Offshore-> Moderate cross
4/5

If only I could surf instead of study/write essays/do group projects!

Good thing I can multitask well!
Summary
Friggen fun.
Waves
The forecast overestimated today's wave size. Yes, they were quality, but they were 1-2ft smaller than predictions. Don't get me wrong, the size was perfect shredable fun size, but a few more feet probably would have helped with consistency a little. Super fun shoulders left and right all over the place, and while California Street was pretty hollow, County Line was ridiculously hollow.
Crowds
Since we walked more than half the way to Emma Wood, there were very few people surfing the quality peaks we were at. There was a heck of a lot of seaweed though, even though the tides weren't anywhere near low. County Line was packed like no other---cars parked on both sides of the highway.
Weather
Cold morning, breezy offshore, overall quite chilly. Things shaped up and Malibu actually ended up being sunny for most of the day.
Forecast
Looking medicore. By mediocre I mean far better than the lame south swells at Surfrider, so the truth is pretty good. Finals week, but I should be able to get out every day except maybe Monday (but I'm dedicated so don't count on that!) As for the return-home session. While it's long range forecasts---next Friday looks like there's a building NW swell up in NorCal, with typical fall weather (aka light winds/early offshores). Basically Carmel should be head high to 1-2ft overhead barrels. Umm, yes.
Eventful Stuff
Where to start?

Apparently we fit 5 boards (3 roof 2 inside) and 5 people in my little Mazda. That made for an interesting little drive. Basically going to take fins off next time and put them all on the roof. Much better idea!

I had some effing amazing waves today. The rest of the crew was a tad skeptical about the session (referring it to it as basically a "good day of surfing") I thought it was pretty dang amazing. Not perfect, not huge, not ridiculous, but dang fun, good size, and managable.
One amazing wave both Steve and Eric W missed the drop, and I thought to myself, "Oh snap, this looks like a nice shoulder..." Super steep drop, amazing hollow face, fast breaking but I ended up going so fast I managed three cutbacks and a wraparound, staying in the perfect pocket for essentially the entire wave. After I paddle back out Mia basically says she was on the inside and saw me on most of that wave, barreled with turns and wraparounds, that that would have made an absolutely sick picture. Wave of the day for sure. Shiat, gimmie more!

County Line was absolutely ridiculous. I don't even know how many ridiculous barrels I got but for sure you'd have to have three or four hands. Pretty short session but it was wave after wave after wave. The most fun was 1-2ft overhead, steep right, one cutback, then down the face, in a legit head high barrel for 3ish seconds before the wave bounced off the shallow sandbar and trounced me.

Oh, and at County some jerkwad ran over my board TWICE, nailing my rails both times. I don't hold it entirely against him as I did drop in on him the second time (which is when my left rail got a nasty gash...already fixed) but it still makes me sad to see lame damage like that. Boo!

Summary:
California Street, Ventura
6'1" Al Merrick White Dove
6:15AM-8:30AM
4-6ft with occasional overhead sets, 14sec
Offshore
Steve, Mia, Eric W, Eric B
4/5

County Line, Ventura County
6'1" Al Merrick White Dove
11:00-12:30PM
3-5ft w/ head+ sets , 14 sec
Crossshore
3/5

I'm giddy for tomorrow!

Summary
Fun little crappy waves. Hollow, great conditions, but too small. Things are, however, looking up!
Waves
Mediocre, mostly closeouts, generally 2-3ft with occasional bigger sets, almost all of which were closeouts. For being small there were steep little hollow shoulders and occasionally a nice little mini-barrel cover up. /excited for the coming WNW swell!
Crowds
Little swell, wintertime, early morning, beachbreak. No, there really wasn't much of a crowd. A few little kids is pretty much it.
Weather
Foggy early on, sun came out quickly and started burning it back.
Forecast
Other than pretty damn spectacular for Fri/Sat/Sun? 4-6ft Fri, 3-5ft Sat/Sun. Small, but a heck of a lot bigger than Malibu has been in the past month! I need me some real waves!
Eventful Stuff
A couple of little baby barrels. No crazy waves, no actually making it out of the barrels, Zuma's just a tad too fast for that "fancy" surfing. Fun though, definately hollow. If you add some size...honestly Zuma could be loads of fun tomorrow. I'm going to check it out on the way back from C-Street.

Summary:
Zuma s9, Malibu
6'1" Al Merrick White Dove
6:15-7:30A
2-3ft with 4ft closeout sets, 15sec
Offshore
2/5
Steve and Lance

The fun waves continue!

Summary
I'll take it. WOW clean conditions, great little waves. If the tides were lower and the swell were building instead of fading, the surf would be more consistent and absolutely amazing. In short: the forecasts were wrong about today.
Waves
Once again surprisingly inconsistent, but still super fun. When there was no one else out the 4-5ft set waves from the point were super fun and would connect all the way to the beach. Nice slabs to work with, tons of cutbacks and wraparounds. Once it got crowded we moved over to the beach break which was a bit more consistent.
Crowds
Surfing at County Line's point without any other people (else who I came with) there? Really? I'll take that any day. More people came as the morning progressed, and the point was "crowded" with maybe 15 people there.
Weather
Supposedly it was supposed to be foggy. False. Beautiful warm morning, offshores, and genuinely pleasant.
Forecast
Looking pretty good for the rest of the week! Hopefully have one or two days of C-Street this weekend (before studying!) but it should be consistently chest high. Still too soon for the going-home Norcal forecast, but if past trends are any indication, next weekend is going to be head high, offshores, clean, and a perfect way to start winter vacation!
Eventful Stuff
Other than perhaps two of the most fun waves I have had at County in recent memory? One wave was a super defined, clean 5ft slab which had the opportunity for more cutbacks than I have had on any wave in at least a month. How many you may ask? So many that I stopped counting once I used up my fingers. Also, once it started really feeling the reef a nice little hollow pocket opened up, the speed I had after the cutback was perfect and it covered me up for three or four seconds. But no, not the end, it continued. That one wave made the day worth it---and it was pretty much the first wave I really went for.

Summary:
County Line, Ventura County
5'10" Southpoint
6:30-9:00
2-4ft w/ + sets (biggest is shoulder+), 14 sec
Offshore
3+/5 (more consistent size/lower tides))
Steve and Billy

Gimmie more!

Summary
I'll be honest---the surf today was well worth it! I am glad I got a little extra sleep, but it is relaxing to have some decent little (but shreddable) waves! Gimmie more!
Waves
Inconsistent, but damn fun waves. Clean, firm, defined shoulders, rippable waves. While County hurt from the morning high tides, there were some quality waves. Size was anywhere from 2ft to 6ft, however inconsistent it may have been. Occasionally a super set would come through, easy to catch (not much competition!) and loads of fun. There were long lulls, however, sometimes twenty plus minutes without even a 3ft wave.
Crowds
For County on a weekday it was crowded, but not crowded per say. 20-30 people maybe...
Weather
Low clouds, overcast. Foggy here in Malibu. Pretty chilly overall. Water isn't too bad though.
Forecast
Looks good, I am excited for this coming swell on Friday!
Eventful Stuff
Marcos! Man oh man can that guy stare. This creeper was all over Mia, and you could see her nervous smirk for most of the morning! Apparently I was so focused on this nervous interaction that I wasn't paying attention to how much the rocks were tearing up my feet. Dripping blood all the way to Lily's...boots for the rest of the week.
I had a few super fun/good size waves.
One was a good 20+second wave from the point all the way to the beach break. Not big, but probably a good waist-chest sized wave. Straight drop, bottom turn to straighten out, two or three little pumps to get some speed, a super sharp cutback right onto the breaking lip, somewhat shaky recovery as I was a little inside on the wave, making it all the way back to the perfect little cover up shack for a few seconds! Way fun.
There was one more way fun drop---6ft steep shoulder, straight down a nice size slab, cutback/floater at the top. I was a little too far inside so I couldn't do much more, but I got a few "no shit you made that" looks/comments. Steep drops are just so damn fun.

Summary:
County Line, Ventura County
6'1" Al Merrick White Dove
8:30-11:30AM
2-4ft w/ + sets (some up to head high), 16 sec
Still->Cross off
3+/5 (more consistent size)
Mia

Perhaps the best Zuma session I have had yet

Summary
Fun session for sure! Barreling (little) waves, but damn clean, pretty consistent, and no doubt a relaxing start to a wonderful week. I don't know how many times I got covered up, but there were lots of shoulders out there to catch, and I sure caught a lot of them.
Waves
Some of the best waves I have had at Zuma. Usually when it's good here I'll head up somewhere else and not bother with this beachbreak. Needless to say, Leo/County must have been an absolute blast this morning. Plentiful rights and left---generally small but occasionally a sweet size set would roll through.
Crowds
Early morning session---there were a few people just East/South of us surfing, but the waves we were getting rocked theirs.
Weather
Fog had already burned off because of the nice little offshore. It WILL be foggy in Malibu today, no question about that. Probably turn into onshores, but certainly some darned fun waves.
Forecast
Looking good, genuinely! I think 3ft is the smallest any west facing break is going to be in the next week. The weekend looks like some solid shoulder+, but we shal see. Genuinely hopeful.
Eventful Stuff
Barreling rights and lefts? There was only one cutback the whole session (forced because I wanted to say that I had at least one!) because the waves were all so steep and barreling, there was no chance for them. I would much rather be covered up by a chest high wave than waste it on a cutback and lose the pocket.

Summary:
Zuma, LA County
6'1" Al Merrick White Dove
6:15-7:35AM
2-4ft w/ + sets (some up to head high), 16 sec
Offshore->Still
3+/5 (more consistent size)
Steve