Summary
I'll be honest---the surf today was well worth it! I am glad I got a little extra sleep, but it is relaxing to have some decent little (but shreddable) waves! Gimmie more!
Waves
Inconsistent, but damn fun waves. Clean, firm, defined shoulders, rippable waves. While County hurt from the morning high tides, there were some quality waves. Size was anywhere from 2ft to 6ft, however inconsistent it may have been. Occasionally a super set would come through, easy to catch (not much competition!) and loads of fun. There were long lulls, however, sometimes twenty plus minutes without even a 3ft wave.
Crowds
For County on a weekday it was crowded, but not crowded per say. 20-30 people maybe...
Weather
Low clouds, overcast. Foggy here in Malibu. Pretty chilly overall. Water isn't too bad though.
Forecast
Looks good, I am excited for this coming swell on Friday!
Eventful Stuff
Marcos! Man oh man can that guy stare. This creeper was all over Mia, and you could see her nervous smirk for most of the morning! Apparently I was so focused on this nervous interaction that I wasn't paying attention to how much the rocks were tearing up my feet. Dripping blood all the way to Lily's...boots for the rest of the week.
I had a few super fun/good size waves.
One was a good 20+second wave from the point all the way to the beach break. Not big, but probably a good waist-chest sized wave. Straight drop, bottom turn to straighten out, two or three little pumps to get some speed, a super sharp cutback right onto the breaking lip, somewhat shaky recovery as I was a little inside on the wave, making it all the way back to the perfect little cover up shack for a few seconds! Way fun.
There was one more way fun drop---6ft steep shoulder, straight down a nice size slab, cutback/floater at the top. I was a little too far inside so I couldn't do much more, but I got a few "no shit you made that" looks/comments. Steep drops are just so damn fun.
Summary:
County Line, Ventura County
6'1" Al Merrick White Dove
8:30-11:30AM
2-4ft w/ + sets (some up to head high), 16 sec
Still->Cross off
3+/5 (more consistent size)
Mia
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