Sunday, December 28, 2008

No, no, no... (but really yes!)

Summary
Pretty dang decent! Since this is the worst day forecast of the coming week, I'm dang psyched. Oh, and my surfing was not craptastic like yesterday. Maybe not great, but certainly good enough to have fun on every wave I went for.
Waves
Overall waves were a little crappier than yesterday, but I was focused and on top of most good ones. Most closeouts, but some decent shoulders would pop up every now and then. Overall the shortish period/high tide made a nice wall of closeouts right where the sand dropped off, so the paddle after every wave was either 20sec of whitewater or 5 minutes of whitewater, hit or miss. Not super hollow, but no doubt some hollow sections.
Crowds
Nah. I was alone for the first hour, then one guy that lives out here popped out, then a few other shortboarders. When I left for lunch at 11:00 there were about a dozen folks scattered up and down the beach (conditions looked pretty good with the tide maxed out and offshore winds dying down a bit.)
Weather
Slightly overcast but wholly beautiful morning. Continuing this week's whole-day SE/E offshore winds, the surf looked doable for pretty much the whole day.
Forecast
Looking nice. I'm excited for the rest of this week, although I think every session is a sub 2 hour early morning one before work. Oh work. Gotta pay for that on-the-mind Merrick MSG... or maybe there's just the June birthday, we'll see!
Eventful Stuff
One wave I started going for and decided not to, but too late. I sat up and tredded some water back as to not be sucked in. Feeling it suck in I say, "No, no, no..." outloud just before it sucks me in and spits me out. Mostly funny because there was one guy watching and I thought if I saw that happen to someone I'd laugh.
Had to end the session early so that I could clean up and head out to lunch with the Spotts. Nicks Cove though, well worth it!
Wave of the Day
I'd have to say the wave I got within five minutes of first paddling out. 4-5ft face, straight drop, gradual cutback (which really was more of just straightining out for the next little section) then little two second coverup/spitout.
After that I would say the last wave, which was basically a nice shoulder, two cutback, mini coverup 4ft wave. Not great in and of itself, but the perfect relaxing, fun wave to end the day on.

Summary:
Dillon Beach, Marin County
5'10" Southpoint
7:30-9:45
3-5ft w/6ft sets 11sec
Offshore
3/5

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