Summary
Beau-ti-friggen-full. Waves, shoulders, no crowds, fun. What more could I ask for, really?
Waves
Pretty much perfect. For not being big, these waves were absolutely rippable in every way. Good sized turns doable. My virgin board wished it were here...but its time will come!
Crowds
Not. Six others at 2nd at 8:30. A few more came, but the crowds were truly light given the quality of the waves. 1st, as always, was packed with probably 40+.
Weather
Sunny, warm, beautiful, offshore glassy? Damn fine.
Forecast
Looks mediocre, but hey---certainly was NOT supposed to be good size today, so who knows?
Eventful Stuff
Supposedly today was going to be shit. I woke up at 6:30 and looked @ the cams and report, looked truly mediocre. I then get up later on to start studying for my test and BAM, chest+ high Malibu cam (meaning I see people shortboarding from the low res cam...) I get there and no crowds whatsoever. Absolutely stunning. Too bad I had to miss class for it...oh well.
Wave of the Day
There were so many it's truly impossible to break it down to one. The five + turns wave, or the sick shoulder + barrel, or the bowly inside-but-super-long one? Or the I-drop-in-on-you-when-there-are-six-people-at-2nd one? I don't know, it's hard to say. They pretty much all rocked though.
Summary:
Surfrider 2/3, Malibu
5'10" Southpoint
8:00-11:00
3-5ft glassy perfection groundswell
3+/5 (because my surfing is on friggen fire, no joke)
Monday, March 30, 2009
Oh snap! Malibu season is on!
Labels:
4/5,
Malibu,
missed class,
Socal,
Southpoint,
spring,
surfing,
Surfrider
Thursday, March 26, 2009
Never give up, never surrender (and always have faith!)
Summary
More more more! I'm totally down for windswell, just as long as there's waves and I get exercise I am content.
Waves
Fun generally. A little mushy and slowish (late morning low tide...) Overall shoulders not super workable, they are windswelly, but provide decent shape and good rides! Rights and lefts all over the place, peaky, uncrowded, and a little weak but certainly doable on the fish.
Crowds
Well, it's significantly better than it's supposed to be. That means that crowds are significantly sparser than conditions should dictate.
Weather
A little cloudy, a little cold, not the most beautiful or spectacular day. Don't get me wrong it's nice, but nothing to write home about (unless you live in some miserable place like Missouri or Kansas or Oklahoma...)
Forecast
Mediocre to fun. We'll see. I'm pretty optimistic all the time.
Eventful Stuff
Nothing eventful whatsoever happened. Mia bailed saying there'd be no waves, but I had faith. Loads of fun...not spectacular but truly relaxing.
Wave of the Day
Pretty simple bowly wave, one of the ones that actually had some oompfh to it. A good ~4ft right that held up from the outside all the way to the bowly little shorepound, a few cutbacks and punchy little sections, whack-a-face finisher.
Summary:
County Line, Ventura County
5'10" Southpoint
7:30-9:30
2-3ft with waist+ sets
2/5
More more more! I'm totally down for windswell, just as long as there's waves and I get exercise I am content.
Waves
Fun generally. A little mushy and slowish (late morning low tide...) Overall shoulders not super workable, they are windswelly, but provide decent shape and good rides! Rights and lefts all over the place, peaky, uncrowded, and a little weak but certainly doable on the fish.
Crowds
Well, it's significantly better than it's supposed to be. That means that crowds are significantly sparser than conditions should dictate.
Weather
A little cloudy, a little cold, not the most beautiful or spectacular day. Don't get me wrong it's nice, but nothing to write home about (unless you live in some miserable place like Missouri or Kansas or Oklahoma...)
Forecast
Mediocre to fun. We'll see. I'm pretty optimistic all the time.
Eventful Stuff
Nothing eventful whatsoever happened. Mia bailed saying there'd be no waves, but I had faith. Loads of fun...not spectacular but truly relaxing.
Wave of the Day
Pretty simple bowly wave, one of the ones that actually had some oompfh to it. A good ~4ft right that held up from the outside all the way to the bowly little shorepound, a few cutbacks and punchy little sections, whack-a-face finisher.
Summary:
County Line, Ventura County
5'10" Southpoint
7:30-9:30
2-3ft with waist+ sets
2/5
Labels:
2/5,
County Line,
Socal,
Southpoint,
spring,
surfing
Friday, March 20, 2009
And Malibu is firing...
Summary
Not bad. Brings the hope of a good season!
Waves
Good sized, a little difficult to pull in to, but not a bad revival from a broken board...
Crowds
Not.
Weather
Sunny, warm, beautiful. Malibu I love you.
Forecast
Mediocre. Beautiful beach weather, not so much for surfing.
Eventful Stuff
It's Malibu. I love it. It's beautiful. It's perfect. Give me more.
Wave of the Day
I honestly forget. There were waves, and they were good. That's all you need to know!
Summary:
Surfrider 2/3, Malibu
5'10" Southpoint
7:00-9:00
3-5ft glassy
3+/5 (because no surf in awhile + oh my god it's Malibu and there are fun waves!)
Not bad. Brings the hope of a good season!
Waves
Good sized, a little difficult to pull in to, but not a bad revival from a broken board...
Crowds
Not.
Weather
Sunny, warm, beautiful. Malibu I love you.
Forecast
Mediocre. Beautiful beach weather, not so much for surfing.
Eventful Stuff
It's Malibu. I love it. It's beautiful. It's perfect. Give me more.
Wave of the Day
I honestly forget. There were waves, and they were good. That's all you need to know!
Summary:
Surfrider 2/3, Malibu
5'10" Southpoint
7:00-9:00
3-5ft glassy
3+/5 (because no surf in awhile + oh my god it's Malibu and there are fun waves!)
Labels:
3/5,
decent size,
fun waves,
Malibu,
Socal,
Southpoint,
surfing
Monday, March 16, 2009
Pretty much...yea. I broke my board in half.
Summary
That's the sum of it. It was after a two hour session so oh well. It's time has come. Westwards has claimed many boards, mine the latest. I would not be surprised if mine was not the only to be claimed today. These waves are pretty dang heavy.
Waves
Effing fun. Barreling like mofos. Good size, good power, super effing fast. I'm not that quick on the drops though, that's one place where I can work, is my sprint fast paddle, because these waves need to be surfed pretty dang horizontal, else you get owned like me.
Crowds
Not crowded, but there were others out. I saw longboarders getting shacked. Wtf?
Weather
Sunny, warm, beautiful, pretty strong offshores. Oh my beautiful.
Forecast
Looks good all week. I don't know how much surfing I'll get in though thanks to Songest. Oh My God there's a south swell.
Eventful Stuff
Surfkast Report for Westwards: 7:25am (Mon) Head high with a few over head high sets. Clean conditions with thick hollow waves... a lot of people out, but spread out. it's heavy out there... surf with caution.
Laugh! Beautiful, fun, amazing. I'll eventually post a pic of my split-in-two board as well. It makes me sad.
Wave of the Day

Summary:
Westwards, Malibu
6'1" Al Merrick White Dove
7:00-9:14
5-6ft, overhead sets
offshore early -> glassy
3/5 (because my surfing is STILL off...)
That's the sum of it. It was after a two hour session so oh well. It's time has come. Westwards has claimed many boards, mine the latest. I would not be surprised if mine was not the only to be claimed today. These waves are pretty dang heavy.
Waves
Effing fun. Barreling like mofos. Good size, good power, super effing fast. I'm not that quick on the drops though, that's one place where I can work, is my sprint fast paddle, because these waves need to be surfed pretty dang horizontal, else you get owned like me.
Crowds
Not crowded, but there were others out. I saw longboarders getting shacked. Wtf?
Weather
Sunny, warm, beautiful, pretty strong offshores. Oh my beautiful.
Forecast
Looks good all week. I don't know how much surfing I'll get in though thanks to Songest. Oh My God there's a south swell.
Eventful Stuff
Surfkast Report for Westwards: 7:25am (Mon) Head high with a few over head high sets. Clean conditions with thick hollow waves... a lot of people out, but spread out. it's heavy out there... surf with caution.
Laugh! Beautiful, fun, amazing. I'll eventually post a pic of my split-in-two board as well. It makes me sad.
Wave of the Day

Summary:
Westwards, Malibu
6'1" Al Merrick White Dove
7:00-9:14
5-6ft, overhead sets
offshore early -> glassy
3/5 (because my surfing is STILL off...)
Labels:
3/5,
board damage,
broken board,
Socal,
surfing,
White Dove,
winter
Sunday, March 15, 2009
And it was good...
Summary
Umm yea. Sick friggen waves.
Waves
Good size. Good shape. Good shacks. Barrels galore.
Crowds
Crowded. Very crowded. There's swell in Malibu on the weekend after a ridiculous lull. I guess it's warranted.
Weather
Sunny, relatively warm (but still cold as sin), offshore breeze. It turned onshore just after I left.
Forecast
Looks good for tomorrow. Looks very good for tomorrow. Looks amazing for tomorrow. Looks absolutely glorious for tomorrow. Oh, and the rest of the week looks OK too.
Eventful Stuff
Waves. Lots and lots of waves. Quick shoulders, but shoulders nonetheless. Westwards is pretty much as steep a beachbreak as exists. People getting shacked left and right. My surfing is sub-par right now. I hate to say it but I think head high westwards is a little bit past my comfort level. Only one way to solve that problem!
Wave of the Day
The first wave I got was a fun chest+ high right, and pretty much the only right I had all morning. Most all the rest of em' were lefts. Beautiful, inspiring lefts.
Summary:
Westwards, Malibu
6'1" White Dove
7:00-9:00
4-6ft, occasional + set
offshore early -> glassy
3/5 (because my surfing is off...)
Umm yea. Sick friggen waves.
Waves
Good size. Good shape. Good shacks. Barrels galore.
Crowds
Crowded. Very crowded. There's swell in Malibu on the weekend after a ridiculous lull. I guess it's warranted.
Weather
Sunny, relatively warm (but still cold as sin), offshore breeze. It turned onshore just after I left.
Forecast
Looks good for tomorrow. Looks very good for tomorrow. Looks amazing for tomorrow. Looks absolutely glorious for tomorrow. Oh, and the rest of the week looks OK too.
Eventful Stuff
Waves. Lots and lots of waves. Quick shoulders, but shoulders nonetheless. Westwards is pretty much as steep a beachbreak as exists. People getting shacked left and right. My surfing is sub-par right now. I hate to say it but I think head high westwards is a little bit past my comfort level. Only one way to solve that problem!
Wave of the Day
The first wave I got was a fun chest+ high right, and pretty much the only right I had all morning. Most all the rest of em' were lefts. Beautiful, inspiring lefts.
Summary:
Westwards, Malibu
6'1" White Dove
7:00-9:00
4-6ft, occasional + set
offshore early -> glassy
3/5 (because my surfing is off...)
Saturday, March 14, 2009
...at least there's waves
Summary
Sucky waves. Sub par no doubt. Probably would have been doable in the morning...with 3000 other people.
Waves
Crappy, mushy, closeouty. Gross. Low tide at point breaks sucks.
Crowds
Lots of people, not lots of waves.
Weather
Overcast, windy, yucky. Not too chilly, but meh.
Forecast
Looks sick...heavy...good.
Eventful Stuff
THERE ARE WAVES IN MALIBU!!! Must I say more? For what utter crap (both super low yucky tide and weak swell) there is, it's crowded as f. Gross.
Wave of the Day
Rather not talk about them. There were a few turns...probably 2 max on any one wave. Yucky.
Summary:
Surfrider, Malibu
6'1" White Dove
5:30-6:45
3-4ft crap
cross/onshore
1/5
Sucky waves. Sub par no doubt. Probably would have been doable in the morning...with 3000 other people.
Waves
Crappy, mushy, closeouty. Gross. Low tide at point breaks sucks.
Crowds
Lots of people, not lots of waves.
Weather
Overcast, windy, yucky. Not too chilly, but meh.
Forecast
Looks sick...heavy...good.
Eventful Stuff
THERE ARE WAVES IN MALIBU!!! Must I say more? For what utter crap (both super low yucky tide and weak swell) there is, it's crowded as f. Gross.
Wave of the Day
Rather not talk about them. There were a few turns...probably 2 max on any one wave. Yucky.
Summary:
Surfrider, Malibu
6'1" White Dove
5:30-6:45
3-4ft crap
cross/onshore
1/5
Labels:
1/5,
inconsistent,
Malibu,
Socal,
surfing,
White Dove,
windy as sin,
winter
Sunday, March 8, 2009
A successful end
Summary
An unexpected burst of fun swell! Completely out of the blue, good waves, tons of shoulders, full of wraparounds and cutbacks. Yea!
Waves
Certainly not bad for windswell. Seriously beautiful for windswell. Beautiful workable shoulders, a little soft but certainly doable. Not huge, but easy to paddle out, paddle into, pretty much everything about them is good.
Crowds
Not crowded but busy. There was a nice little handful of people out.
Weather
Beautiful, warm, sunny, offshore. Certainly not the crappy, cloudy, windy conditions that were expected.
Forecast
Let me bask in this glory in lieu. It does not look good.
Eventful Stuff
Nothing whatsoever.
Wave of the Day
Some sick rights, four or five turns and one or two wrap arounds. Beautiful, glorious, fun.
Summary:
Dillon Beach, Marin County
5'10" Southpoint
8:00-9:30AM
3-5ft windswell
offshore
3/5
An unexpected burst of fun swell! Completely out of the blue, good waves, tons of shoulders, full of wraparounds and cutbacks. Yea!
Waves
Certainly not bad for windswell. Seriously beautiful for windswell. Beautiful workable shoulders, a little soft but certainly doable. Not huge, but easy to paddle out, paddle into, pretty much everything about them is good.
Crowds
Not crowded but busy. There was a nice little handful of people out.
Weather
Beautiful, warm, sunny, offshore. Certainly not the crappy, cloudy, windy conditions that were expected.
Forecast
Let me bask in this glory in lieu. It does not look good.
Eventful Stuff
Nothing whatsoever.
Wave of the Day
Some sick rights, four or five turns and one or two wrap arounds. Beautiful, glorious, fun.
Summary:
Dillon Beach, Marin County
5'10" Southpoint
8:00-9:30AM
3-5ft windswell
offshore
3/5
Labels:
3/5,
Dillon Beach,
fun waves,
Norcal,
Southpoint,
surfing,
windswell,
winter
Saturday, March 7, 2009
Refreshing...but lacking nonetheless
Summary
Fun little waves. There are shoulders but nothing spectacular.
Waves
Small (relatively) windswell waves with surprisingly decent shape. Nothing shreddable (but I'm surfing a 7'6" so what is?) but certainly fun.
Crowds
Not.
Weather
Sunny, beautiful, nice slight offshore breeze.
Forecast
Looks crappy but we know how that goes...
Eventful Stuff
Nothing.
Wave of the Day
There were some fun ~20sec shoulders. They held up surprisingly well and for being realtively small were steep and occasionally slightly hollow. Probably one of the many rights that held up, probably one bottom turn and some super slow pump jumps =)
Summary:
Dillon Beach, Marin County
7'6" Al Merrick M13
8:00-9:30AM
2-3.5ft, windswell
offshore
2/5
Fun little waves. There are shoulders but nothing spectacular.
Waves
Small (relatively) windswell waves with surprisingly decent shape. Nothing shreddable (but I'm surfing a 7'6" so what is?) but certainly fun.
Crowds
Not.
Weather
Sunny, beautiful, nice slight offshore breeze.
Forecast
Looks crappy but we know how that goes...
Eventful Stuff
Nothing.
Wave of the Day
There were some fun ~20sec shoulders. They held up surprisingly well and for being realtively small were steep and occasionally slightly hollow. Probably one of the many rights that held up, probably one bottom turn and some super slow pump jumps =)
Summary:
Dillon Beach, Marin County
7'6" Al Merrick M13
8:00-9:30AM
2-3.5ft, windswell
offshore
2/5
Thursday, March 5, 2009
Still a lot of work...
Summary
But overall well worth it and a surprising amount of fun. Good slow shoulders, big walls, nice conditions. Can't argue with it.
Waves
Still relatively short period. I guess there's still some stormswell leftover because good waves were well mixed in with poor. The long period with short.
Crowds
Quite a few folks out for a Thursday. Probably almost a dozen just around 8. I think the big deterrent was the tide (which was falling from ~5ft just before 6.
Weather
Sunny, beautiful, offshores. No storm, no rain.
Forecast
Mediocre. SoCal looks pretty dead. NorCal will have some waves but I'm a bit skeptical of the conditions. We'll see.
Eventful Stuff
Nothing.
Wave of the Day
There were a few fun ones. My most memorable was probably my first really good shoulder. Nice steep drop, probably a foot overhead, pretty simple wave just carving around getting speed, one full (and I mean full) wraparound. Relaxing and fun.
Summary:
Dillon Beach, Marin County
5'10" Southpoint
7:15-9:15
5-6ft with overhead sets, 13sec
3/5
But overall well worth it and a surprising amount of fun. Good slow shoulders, big walls, nice conditions. Can't argue with it.
Waves
Still relatively short period. I guess there's still some stormswell leftover because good waves were well mixed in with poor. The long period with short.
Crowds
Quite a few folks out for a Thursday. Probably almost a dozen just around 8. I think the big deterrent was the tide (which was falling from ~5ft just before 6.
Weather
Sunny, beautiful, offshores. No storm, no rain.
Forecast
Mediocre. SoCal looks pretty dead. NorCal will have some waves but I'm a bit skeptical of the conditions. We'll see.
Eventful Stuff
Nothing.
Wave of the Day
There were a few fun ones. My most memorable was probably my first really good shoulder. Nice steep drop, probably a foot overhead, pretty simple wave just carving around getting speed, one full (and I mean full) wraparound. Relaxing and fun.
Summary:
Dillon Beach, Marin County
5'10" Southpoint
7:15-9:15
5-6ft with overhead sets, 13sec
3/5
Labels:
3/5,
Dillon Beach,
Norcal,
Southpoint,
surfing,
winter
Wednesday, March 4, 2009
Deceptive...looks surfable but really not
Summary
The truth is it was a whole lot of work with absolutely no reward. I couldn't get out...45 minutes of paddling and I decided to call it quits.
Waves
Good size. Far enough out there was actually some good shape good size. Pretty big size, I would say probably three or four feet overhead for sure. 46013 was 12 feet 15sec so I wouldn't be surprised. Whitewater galore.
Crowds
None, with good reason.
Weather
Overcast, but beautiful.
Forecast
Looks a heck of a lot better than today. Not good but certainly less overpowering.
Eventful Stuff
Nothing, truly nothing at all. Little more than a 45 minute arm exercise.
Wave of the Day
What waves? Oh the waves I got when I decided not to waste my time? I'd rather not think about any of them.
Summary:
Dillon Beach, Marin CountyThe truth is it was a whole lot of work with absolutely no reward. I couldn't get out...45 minutes of paddling and I decided to call it quits.
Waves
Good size. Far enough out there was actually some good shape good size. Pretty big size, I would say probably three or four feet overhead for sure. 46013 was 12 feet 15sec so I wouldn't be surprised. Whitewater galore.
Crowds
None, with good reason.
Weather
Overcast, but beautiful.
Forecast
Looks a heck of a lot better than today. Not good but certainly less overpowering.
Eventful Stuff
Nothing, truly nothing at all. Little more than a 45 minute arm exercise.
Wave of the Day
What waves? Oh the waves I got when I decided not to waste my time? I'd rather not think about any of them.
Summary:
5'10" Southpoint
7:15-8:00
4-6ft with + sets and lots of whitewater
Light offshore / still
0/5 not surfing
Labels:
0/5 sux,
Dillon Beach,
Norcal,
Southpoint,
surfing,
winter
Sunday, March 1, 2009
It continues...
Summary
G'damn amazing. My surfing is still off, but holy smokes there are some sick waves today. I wish I could have gotten more of them but my oh my they were beautiful just to watch.
Waves
Good size, super workable shoulders! Oh my these are inspiring! Faces holding up super long! A little hard to pull into but when you're on them it's a 30 second sick shoulder (mostly rights.)
Crowds
Not. There were about a dozen people out, on a beach break that's peaky. However, North by the rocks there were some sick rights so that's where most everyone was.
Weather
Chilly. Offshores galore, but pretty cold. I'd be owned without a hood, but I went bootless.
Forecast
Life is good today and that's all I care about.
Eventful Stuff
Nothing.
Wave of the Day
There were probably only three really good waves I had, but they were good. No barrels, but I had three or four turns on a couple of them, a few wrap arounds, just beautiful omg-i-want-more-of waves. Give me more.
Summary:
Dillon Beach, Marin County
6'1" Al Merrick White Dove
10:45-1:00
4-6ft with 8ftsets, 15sec
cross/offshore stiff winds
3/5
G'damn amazing. My surfing is still off, but holy smokes there are some sick waves today. I wish I could have gotten more of them but my oh my they were beautiful just to watch.
Waves
Good size, super workable shoulders! Oh my these are inspiring! Faces holding up super long! A little hard to pull into but when you're on them it's a 30 second sick shoulder (mostly rights.)
Crowds
Not. There were about a dozen people out, on a beach break that's peaky. However, North by the rocks there were some sick rights so that's where most everyone was.
Weather
Chilly. Offshores galore, but pretty cold. I'd be owned without a hood, but I went bootless.
Forecast
Life is good today and that's all I care about.
Eventful Stuff
Nothing.
Wave of the Day
There were probably only three really good waves I had, but they were good. No barrels, but I had three or four turns on a couple of them, a few wrap arounds, just beautiful omg-i-want-more-of waves. Give me more.
Summary:
Dillon Beach, Marin County
6'1" Al Merrick White Dove
10:45-1:00
4-6ft with 8ftsets, 15sec
cross/offshore stiff winds
3/5
Labels:
3/5,
Dillon Beach,
Norcal,
surfing,
White Dove,
windy as sin,
winter,
winter storm
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