Summary
G'damn amazing. My surfing is still off, but holy smokes there are some sick waves today. I wish I could have gotten more of them but my oh my they were beautiful just to watch.
Waves
Good size, super workable shoulders! Oh my these are inspiring! Faces holding up super long! A little hard to pull into but when you're on them it's a 30 second sick shoulder (mostly rights.)
Crowds
Not. There were about a dozen people out, on a beach break that's peaky. However, North by the rocks there were some sick rights so that's where most everyone was.
Weather
Chilly. Offshores galore, but pretty cold. I'd be owned without a hood, but I went bootless.
Forecast
Life is good today and that's all I care about.
Eventful Stuff
Nothing.
Wave of the Day
There were probably only three really good waves I had, but they were good. No barrels, but I had three or four turns on a couple of them, a few wrap arounds, just beautiful omg-i-want-more-of waves. Give me more.
Summary:
Dillon Beach, Marin County
6'1" Al Merrick White Dove
10:45-1:00
4-6ft with 8ftsets, 15sec
cross/offshore stiff winds
3/5
About Me
- Alex Merrick
- Malibu, CA, United States
- "Life of my life, I shall ever try to keep my body pure, knowing that thy living touch is upon all my limbs. I shall ever try to keep all untruths out from my thoughts, knowing that thou art that truth which has kindled the light of reason in my mind. I shall ever try to drive all evils away from my heart and keep my love in flower, knowing that thou hast thy seat in the inmost shrine of my heart. And it shall be my endeavour to reveal thee in my actions, knowing it is thy power gives me strength to act."
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