Summary
All things considered, it was a decent session with some fun waves. Not spectacular, but there was some size (occasionally) and some wide open faces with some turning room. That and the beautiful weather / giant smoke plume.
Waves
Generally waist high, but the sets got almost to shoulder high. Decent shape, a little closeouty but not too much so. As such the waves were generally pretty fast even though the tide was pretty high. In the end it was the high tide that killed the shape, so I booked it just as it peaked.
Crowds
Quite a few out. Mostly on longboards, fish, boogieboards, and kneeboards. That said, there were a few people shortboarding, and a few absolutely destroying waves.
Weather
Beautiful sunny warm morning, close to 70deg. That said, there is a giant plume of incense-smelling smoke a few miles high visible from the beach. Ridiculous.
Forecast
Iffy. There's some potential in this hurricane that's spinning up. Other than that just weak S swell and a refreshing bash of NW windswell.
Eventful Stuff
Nathan.
Wave of the Day
Sweet little right. Nice open shoulder drop, almost shoulder high. Slow bottom turn into a sweet cutback into the face, then shoot along the rapidly closing out face and into one more slice off the top of the wave. It was a surprisingly fun, fast wave given the general conditions of the morning surf.
Summary:
County Line
6'1" Al Merrick MX
7:00AM-9:00AM
3ft w/ 4ft sets
2+/5
Sunday, August 30, 2009
Friday, August 28, 2009
Wednesday, August 26, 2009
Hooked
Summary
Contrasting session. It started out powerful, and ended powerful, but the whole time in the center was gutless and weak.
Waves
The NW swell didn't start to really hit the beach until the last forty-five minutes of the session. Before that it was leftover S swell that would hit every once in awhile. Aside from that the beach was literally flat. Flatter than yesterday. That said, the sets were 5ft plus.
Crowds
Not. On the beach, not in the water. There was one girl I was chatting with for the better part of an hour. Anaika I think.
Weather
Beautifully overcast and chilly.
Forecast
NorCal is going to rock this weekend. It is fall weather, it is fall for NPAC weather...
Eventful Stuff
Some unbalanced demographics. Talking with the girl from Marin, nice character.
Wave of the Day
The wave of the day was NOT one of the two-second closeouts. It was a sweet little right, open drop, bottom turn, cutback off the face, toot down the face, cut off the bottom and adjust, get barreled for a half second, then get smacked face down into the sand.
Summary:
Carmel Beach, Monterey County
5'10" Southpoint
5:00PM-7:00PM
3ft w/ 4-5ft sets
2/5
Contrasting session. It started out powerful, and ended powerful, but the whole time in the center was gutless and weak.
Waves
The NW swell didn't start to really hit the beach until the last forty-five minutes of the session. Before that it was leftover S swell that would hit every once in awhile. Aside from that the beach was literally flat. Flatter than yesterday. That said, the sets were 5ft plus.
Crowds
Not. On the beach, not in the water. There was one girl I was chatting with for the better part of an hour. Anaika I think.
Weather
Beautifully overcast and chilly.
Forecast
NorCal is going to rock this weekend. It is fall weather, it is fall for NPAC weather...
Eventful Stuff
Some unbalanced demographics. Talking with the girl from Marin, nice character.
Wave of the Day
The wave of the day was NOT one of the two-second closeouts. It was a sweet little right, open drop, bottom turn, cutback off the face, toot down the face, cut off the bottom and adjust, get barreled for a half second, then get smacked face down into the sand.
Summary:
Carmel Beach, Monterey County
5'10" Southpoint
5:00PM-7:00PM
3ft w/ 4-5ft sets
2/5
Tuesday, August 25, 2009
South me
Summary
Carmel rocks. I wish there was a little more power in the waves, but it still rocks. Not big, not powerful, but there were some fun sets. Can't really argue for an afternoon session.
Waves
Small shorepound. Pretty much two feet non-set waves, weak powerless boring. That said, every once in awhile the South Swell would rear its head and toss a shoulder high wave at you. Those were still pretty much shorepound closeouts, but they were a heck of a lot more workable closeouts than the 2ft ones. Fun, but super inconsistent.
Crowds
A handful of others. Mostly kids just off from school. Not bad surfers by any means, pretty decent given the conditions, I was impressed.
Weather
Overcast, 10mph onshore breeze. Beautiful but pretty cold.
Forecast
Looks mediocre. Sweet South for Socal, decent NW heading for Cali too, but tomorrow should be pretty weak up here. I should have time for a Thursday morning surf before I finish up painting, and it should be 4-5ft NW mid period stuff, so I'm optimistic.
Eventful Stuff
Dolphins are cool. There were probably two dozen people on the beach watching the dolphins frolic around in the ocean. Other than that just chilling in Carmel, painted for seven hours today, mailed off my ebay'd broken camera, and had me a little surf. Life is good.
Wave of the Day
There were a few surprising little barrels. The monster sets that came pretty much were nothing except for that. Side drop / get barreled for two seconds / hope your board doesn't hit you. Rights and lefts, there were probably four or five of those. Each one more fun than the last. There were some cuts too but not so many, the fish is a little slower than my shortboard so.
Summary:
Carmel Beach, Monterey County
5'10" Southpoint
5:30PM-6:45PM
3ft w/ 4-5ft sets (rare!)
2/5
Carmel rocks. I wish there was a little more power in the waves, but it still rocks. Not big, not powerful, but there were some fun sets. Can't really argue for an afternoon session.
Waves
Small shorepound. Pretty much two feet non-set waves, weak powerless boring. That said, every once in awhile the South Swell would rear its head and toss a shoulder high wave at you. Those were still pretty much shorepound closeouts, but they were a heck of a lot more workable closeouts than the 2ft ones. Fun, but super inconsistent.
Crowds
A handful of others. Mostly kids just off from school. Not bad surfers by any means, pretty decent given the conditions, I was impressed.
Weather
Overcast, 10mph onshore breeze. Beautiful but pretty cold.
Forecast
Looks mediocre. Sweet South for Socal, decent NW heading for Cali too, but tomorrow should be pretty weak up here. I should have time for a Thursday morning surf before I finish up painting, and it should be 4-5ft NW mid period stuff, so I'm optimistic.
Eventful Stuff
Dolphins are cool. There were probably two dozen people on the beach watching the dolphins frolic around in the ocean. Other than that just chilling in Carmel, painted for seven hours today, mailed off my ebay'd broken camera, and had me a little surf. Life is good.
Wave of the Day
There were a few surprising little barrels. The monster sets that came pretty much were nothing except for that. Side drop / get barreled for two seconds / hope your board doesn't hit you. Rights and lefts, there were probably four or five of those. Each one more fun than the last. There were some cuts too but not so many, the fish is a little slower than my shortboard so.
Summary:
Carmel Beach, Monterey County
5'10" Southpoint
5:30PM-6:45PM
3ft w/ 4-5ft sets (rare!)
2/5
Sunday, August 23, 2009
A little arm burn...
Summary
Sometimes that's all you need. More power, more size, and better shape than yesterday. That said, still short period punchy waves. Yesterday's potential is here, but it is shadowed behind the onshore winds.
Waves
Quick, fast, pretty big. Given the winds the waves were surprisingly good. Looking from the outlook it looked comparable to yesterday, but once I got to the beach and started paddling out I realized it would be even better.
Crowds
Less than yesterday. Not a whole bunch of people out, but certainly a handful. The forecast was that today would be bigger and more powerful. It was.
Weather
Overcast. Chilly. Genuinely pretty dang cold.
Forecast
Mediocre. Some nice South swell coming, but I'm not going any where that potential is really going to show. Southern California should be decent for the next few weeks, even some west swell on the way. Awesome!
Eventful Stuff
Off to Carmel in my new car today!
Wave of the Day
There was a sweet left I had. Shoulder high, no drop really, just straight shot high up on the face, down, cutback, then a floater in to the closeout. It was pretty fun.
Summary:
Dillon Beach, Marin County
5'10" Southpoint
7:15-9:00
4-6ft+
2+/5
Sometimes that's all you need. More power, more size, and better shape than yesterday. That said, still short period punchy waves. Yesterday's potential is here, but it is shadowed behind the onshore winds.
Waves
Quick, fast, pretty big. Given the winds the waves were surprisingly good. Looking from the outlook it looked comparable to yesterday, but once I got to the beach and started paddling out I realized it would be even better.
Crowds
Less than yesterday. Not a whole bunch of people out, but certainly a handful. The forecast was that today would be bigger and more powerful. It was.
Weather
Overcast. Chilly. Genuinely pretty dang cold.
Forecast
Mediocre. Some nice South swell coming, but I'm not going any where that potential is really going to show. Southern California should be decent for the next few weeks, even some west swell on the way. Awesome!
Eventful Stuff
Off to Carmel in my new car today!
Wave of the Day
There was a sweet left I had. Shoulder high, no drop really, just straight shot high up on the face, down, cutback, then a floater in to the closeout. It was pretty fun.
Summary:
Dillon Beach, Marin County
5'10" Southpoint
7:15-9:00
4-6ft+
2+/5
Saturday, August 22, 2009
A glimpse of beauty...
Summary
Sweet! There are some sweet waves this morning! Not great, but decent size, decent shape, decent all around ok ness. While it's easy to argue with mediocrity, it is hard to argue with it in a gutless summer as we have now.
Waves
OK. Waist-shoulder high sets, decent power, pretty low tide but not completely drained. There were some workable waves, pretty few and far between but they were there.
Crowds
Not really. A handful of others out, but not a crowd. There was some expectation of today's size, not big but doable.
Weather
Overcast, chilly, typical late summer weather. Regardless, beautiful. Smooth ocean even though there was some onshore texture.
Forecast
Looks mediocre. Way better than summer has been so far, so can't argue too much!
Eventful Stuff
I met another local DB'er out there, his name escapes me now, but he lives right across the street from Jon. Good deal.
Wave of the Day
I had a few pretty fun waves. Generally short, but a few racing-rights, one sweet bottom turn / cutback / bottom turn / cutback just like yesterday.
Summary:
Dillon Beach, Marin County
5'10" Southpoint
6:45-8:45
4-5ft
2+/5
Sweet! There are some sweet waves this morning! Not great, but decent size, decent shape, decent all around ok ness. While it's easy to argue with mediocrity, it is hard to argue with it in a gutless summer as we have now.
Waves
OK. Waist-shoulder high sets, decent power, pretty low tide but not completely drained. There were some workable waves, pretty few and far between but they were there.
Crowds
Not really. A handful of others out, but not a crowd. There was some expectation of today's size, not big but doable.
Weather
Overcast, chilly, typical late summer weather. Regardless, beautiful. Smooth ocean even though there was some onshore texture.
Forecast
Looks mediocre. Way better than summer has been so far, so can't argue too much!
Eventful Stuff
I met another local DB'er out there, his name escapes me now, but he lives right across the street from Jon. Good deal.
Wave of the Day
I had a few pretty fun waves. Generally short, but a few racing-rights, one sweet bottom turn / cutback / bottom turn / cutback just like yesterday.
Summary:
Dillon Beach, Marin County
5'10" Southpoint
6:45-8:45
4-5ft
2+/5
Friday, August 21, 2009
It's a beautiful day for an afternoon surf!
Summary
The summer is over. This is what it's all about up North. Spectacularly surprising afternoons.
Waves
Got better as the hour progressed. Decent size, generally poor mushy shape, but there were some beautiful exceptions. Certainly some potential if you were in the right place at the right time.
Crowds
Not. There were some girls getting out of the water right before I arrived.
Weather
BEAUTIFUL. ABSOLUTELY BREATHTAKINGLY BEAUTIFUL!
Forecast
Looks good. Truly, not like fall but close. Windswell, 8-12 sec period NW swell, 14-20sec S/SW swell. Chest-Overhead windswell, chest high+ south swell. Variable offshore winds early through mid next week, light afternoon winds. What a perfect end to the summer.
Eventful Stuff
My last day at work. A nice end to it all.
Wave of the Day
A surprisingly fun right. A nice five foot face, straight shot down, really sharp bottom turn right up in to the face. I didn't think I was going to make the bottom turn, but I did. Cutback at the top of the face, some pseudo fish pumps back down, one more turn at the bottom, a cut back in the face. Pretty fun, clean size and shape. A little mushy, but the afternoon was beautiful and certainly worth it.
Summary:
Dillon Beach, Marin County
5'10" Southpoint
6:15-7:00
3-5ft
2+/5
The summer is over. This is what it's all about up North. Spectacularly surprising afternoons.
Waves
Got better as the hour progressed. Decent size, generally poor mushy shape, but there were some beautiful exceptions. Certainly some potential if you were in the right place at the right time.
Crowds
Not. There were some girls getting out of the water right before I arrived.
Weather
BEAUTIFUL. ABSOLUTELY BREATHTAKINGLY BEAUTIFUL!
Forecast
Looks good. Truly, not like fall but close. Windswell, 8-12 sec period NW swell, 14-20sec S/SW swell. Chest-Overhead windswell, chest high+ south swell. Variable offshore winds early through mid next week, light afternoon winds. What a perfect end to the summer.
Eventful Stuff
My last day at work. A nice end to it all.
Wave of the Day
A surprisingly fun right. A nice five foot face, straight shot down, really sharp bottom turn right up in to the face. I didn't think I was going to make the bottom turn, but I did. Cutback at the top of the face, some pseudo fish pumps back down, one more turn at the bottom, a cut back in the face. Pretty fun, clean size and shape. A little mushy, but the afternoon was beautiful and certainly worth it.
Summary:
Dillon Beach, Marin County
5'10" Southpoint
6:15-7:00
3-5ft
2+/5
Sunday, August 16, 2009
Oh, it's sweet. But parallel parking in reverse up a hill is not.
Summary
Overall quite a bit windier than yesterday. Associated conditions were also poorer. Not bad by any means, but certainly imperfect. There were waves, and I got a decent little surf in.
Waves
Windswell, longer period than yesterday but still pretty short. Local local windswell kicked their size down a bit, as did the tides. Not super workable, pretty fast little rides. The potential will be felt soon.
Crowds
There were a few others out. Nothing too special. Not crowded.
Weather
Slightly overcast and somewhat chilly. The wind made it even chillier.
Forecast
Weak. Small. Beautiful winds, poor waves. Should make for some spectacularly beautiful days, but otherwise unremarkable surf.
Eventful Stuff
Haha! Dale tagged my car with a no-parking sticker because I didn't get a new sticker yet. He was just leaving right when I arrived, but I snagged him back and he peeled the sticker off and gave me a mark for my windshield so it doesn't happen again.
Wave of the Day
One of the many rights I had. Not great shape but some ok drops and a good little slap at the end. That's pretty much it.
Summary:
Dillon Beach, Marin County
5'10" Southpoint
7:15-8:30
3-4ft
2/5
Overall quite a bit windier than yesterday. Associated conditions were also poorer. Not bad by any means, but certainly imperfect. There were waves, and I got a decent little surf in.
Waves
Windswell, longer period than yesterday but still pretty short. Local local windswell kicked their size down a bit, as did the tides. Not super workable, pretty fast little rides. The potential will be felt soon.
Crowds
There were a few others out. Nothing too special. Not crowded.
Weather
Slightly overcast and somewhat chilly. The wind made it even chillier.
Forecast
Weak. Small. Beautiful winds, poor waves. Should make for some spectacularly beautiful days, but otherwise unremarkable surf.
Eventful Stuff
Haha! Dale tagged my car with a no-parking sticker because I didn't get a new sticker yet. He was just leaving right when I arrived, but I snagged him back and he peeled the sticker off and gave me a mark for my windshield so it doesn't happen again.
Wave of the Day
One of the many rights I had. Not great shape but some ok drops and a good little slap at the end. That's pretty much it.
Summary:
Dillon Beach, Marin County
5'10" Southpoint
7:15-8:30
3-4ft
2/5
Saturday, August 15, 2009
My new car is ridiculously sweet...
Summary
There were waves. Nothing great, but certainly some fun had.
Waves
Windswell. Short period. Long waits between sets. The sets were actually pretty fun, a few open shoulders.
Crowds
A half dozen others out.
Weather
Sunny, warm, light winds, beautiful morning!
Forecast
Looks decent. Windswell, but good winds. Could be fun!
Eventful Stuff
Nothing. Working the clutch...
Wave of the Day
There were a few fun rights. The right waves were actually surprisingly punchy. Pretty much a bottom turn, slice off the top, and race against the wall. Not spectacular but for sure fun.
Summary:
Dillon Beach, Marin County
5'10" Southpoint
8:15-9:15AM
3-4.5ft
2/5
There were waves. Nothing great, but certainly some fun had.
Waves
Windswell. Short period. Long waits between sets. The sets were actually pretty fun, a few open shoulders.
Crowds
A half dozen others out.
Weather
Sunny, warm, light winds, beautiful morning!
Forecast
Looks decent. Windswell, but good winds. Could be fun!
Eventful Stuff
Nothing. Working the clutch...
Wave of the Day
There were a few fun rights. The right waves were actually surprisingly punchy. Pretty much a bottom turn, slice off the top, and race against the wall. Not spectacular but for sure fun.
Summary:
Dillon Beach, Marin County
5'10" Southpoint
8:15-9:15AM
3-4.5ft
2/5
Monday, August 10, 2009
More surfing
Summary
Quick little morning surf. Conditions held up well enough overnight that it wasn't an unbearable session. Punchy windswell.
Waves
Windswell. Fun, quick little rides. Nothing spectacular (or particularly big) but certainly a continued foray back into surfing.
Crowds
Not. Solo sesh (else the annoying bugger seals...)
Weather
Overcast, chilly, but nonetheless a beautiful morning.
Forecast
Mediocre. Nothing great yet. We'll see, the windswell will improve.
Eventful Stuff
Back to work! Who said it's no fun?
Wave of the Day
Nothing spectacular. Probably a lumpy little right.
Summary:
Dillon Beach, Marin County
5'10" Southpoint
6:30-7:30AM
4ft +/-
2/5
Quick little morning surf. Conditions held up well enough overnight that it wasn't an unbearable session. Punchy windswell.
Waves
Windswell. Fun, quick little rides. Nothing spectacular (or particularly big) but certainly a continued foray back into surfing.
Crowds
Not. Solo sesh (else the annoying bugger seals...)
Weather
Overcast, chilly, but nonetheless a beautiful morning.
Forecast
Mediocre. Nothing great yet. We'll see, the windswell will improve.
Eventful Stuff
Back to work! Who said it's no fun?
Wave of the Day
Nothing spectacular. Probably a lumpy little right.
Summary:
Dillon Beach, Marin County
5'10" Southpoint
6:30-7:30AM
4ft +/-
2/5
Sunday, August 9, 2009
Ah...back in the fray
Summary
There are waves and today is a beautiful morning. Can't ask for much more than that!
Waves
Windswell, but decent shape and potential. Surprisingly fast waves, a little closeouty but overall not bad. The winds stayed light all day, but the morning even had a little offshore flow to it.
Crowds
Not. Ten others once the gates opened up.
Weather
Sunny, warm, beautiful.
Forecast
Looks decent. I do like windswell. Occasionally it is quite fun.
Eventful Stuff
Back from the hiatus of feeling-like-crap-with-four-less-teeth.
Wave of the Day
Not sure, there were a handful of two or three turn waves. A few cutbacks and wraps, even a floater. Not spectacular but pretty fun. Even higher expectations tomorrow.
Summary:
Dillon Beach, Marin County
5'10" Southpoint
7:00-9:30AM
3-4.5ft with some bigger sets
2+/5
There are waves and today is a beautiful morning. Can't ask for much more than that!
Waves
Windswell, but decent shape and potential. Surprisingly fast waves, a little closeouty but overall not bad. The winds stayed light all day, but the morning even had a little offshore flow to it.
Crowds
Not. Ten others once the gates opened up.
Weather
Sunny, warm, beautiful.
Forecast
Looks decent. I do like windswell. Occasionally it is quite fun.
Eventful Stuff
Back from the hiatus of feeling-like-crap-with-four-less-teeth.
Wave of the Day
Not sure, there were a handful of two or three turn waves. A few cutbacks and wraps, even a floater. Not spectacular but pretty fun. Even higher expectations tomorrow.
Summary:
Dillon Beach, Marin County
5'10" Southpoint
7:00-9:30AM
3-4.5ft with some bigger sets
2+/5
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