Summary
If only my camera would stay on the whole session...I think I've got a pair of defective batteries...nothing else really makes any sense. The surfing was a blast! Decently fast, pretty good shape, still a little closeouty. Beautiful morning, beautiful day, beautiful surf. Can't lose.
Waves
Not huge but comparable in size to yesterday. It was supposed to bump up a little bit, but at least in comparison to the afternoon it was a bit smaller, perhaps the differing tides or what not. Workable shoulders, quick drops, sharp bottom turns, a little face racing, and more than a handful of snaps.
Crowds
There were almost two dozen out. Not crowded, significantly less than yesterday morning, but certainly a relief. I find it pleasant when others are out here having a ball. It is inspiring to watch other people surf---it's half the fun of going.
Weather
Beautiful, sunny, warm, offshore breeze. The ocean was smooth, not glassy but certainly beautiful.
Forecast
SoCal looks somewhat dead this week. Hopefully things will pick up soon...it's a crime to be wasting this beautiful weather!
Eventful Stuff
Driving for seven hours back down South...not so excited. I am excited that my essay was canceled. Thank you Czar Schaffer! More surfing and less working! Very excited to be using this camera up North in the fall...it will be inspiring. I need me some 10ft barrels!
Wave of the Day
After I noticed the camera was frozen I took the next wave in to shore. This was a pretty sweet little right, drop, immediate cut left into the break, shoot right, wrap, keep going, and snap as it closed out. I thought to myself DANGIT, why does the camera have to not be working now...makes me sad! No biggie though, I got some good footage of earlier!
Summary:
Dillon Beach, Marin
5'10" Quad Beauty
7:00-9:00AM
4-6ft wind/groundswell mix
3/5
Sunday, September 27, 2009
Saturday, September 26, 2009
Delicious...
Summary
Beautiful. Put simply, absolutely beautiful. Beautiful morning, beautiful day, beautiful ocean, beautiful everything. Spectacular.
Waves
The waves were pretty decent. Not huge, but certainly some big sets both morning and afternoon. Overall shape was pretty walled because of the general high tides. If it were a few feet bigger the steep dropoff would make for some hollow but make able closeouts...
Crowds
The morning was the most crowded I've seen since last fall, more than thirty out. The afternoon had a half dozen, far more spread out and much more make able shoulders.
Weather
Spectacular. Perfect weather, very very light onshore in the afternoon.
Forecast
Looks great for tomorrow! 1-2ft bigger than today at least, more consistent, Southern California should have some swell this week as well...
Eventful Stuff
The barking sea lion! What a riot. That thing was probably three hundred feet from me and still ridiculously loud.
Wave of the Day
I would probably say the last wave I got in the afternoon. Almost thirty seconds long from start to finish, massive right, make the drop, see this giant section going to closeout, so I veer straight to shore, it closesout and shoots water twenty some feet in the air, but there's a load of whitewater which pushes me all the way inside until the wave walls up again (much smaller) and starts breaking. Not "great" but really fun and surprisingly powerful.
Summary:
Dillon Beach, Marin
5'10" Quad Beauty / 7'6" M13 Al Merrick
7:30-10:45AM / 5:15-6:45PM
4-5ft WNW / 5-6ft WNW
3/5
Beautiful. Put simply, absolutely beautiful. Beautiful morning, beautiful day, beautiful ocean, beautiful everything. Spectacular.
Waves
The waves were pretty decent. Not huge, but certainly some big sets both morning and afternoon. Overall shape was pretty walled because of the general high tides. If it were a few feet bigger the steep dropoff would make for some hollow but make able closeouts...
Crowds
The morning was the most crowded I've seen since last fall, more than thirty out. The afternoon had a half dozen, far more spread out and much more make able shoulders.
Weather
Spectacular. Perfect weather, very very light onshore in the afternoon.
Forecast
Looks great for tomorrow! 1-2ft bigger than today at least, more consistent, Southern California should have some swell this week as well...
Eventful Stuff
The barking sea lion! What a riot. That thing was probably three hundred feet from me and still ridiculously loud.
Wave of the Day
I would probably say the last wave I got in the afternoon. Almost thirty seconds long from start to finish, massive right, make the drop, see this giant section going to closeout, so I veer straight to shore, it closesout and shoots water twenty some feet in the air, but there's a load of whitewater which pushes me all the way inside until the wave walls up again (much smaller) and starts breaking. Not "great" but really fun and surprisingly powerful.
Summary:
Dillon Beach, Marin
5'10" Quad Beauty / 7'6" M13 Al Merrick
7:30-10:45AM / 5:15-6:45PM
4-5ft WNW / 5-6ft WNW
3/5
Tuesday, September 22, 2009
One stitch later...
Summary
My head still hurts. Filled with gooey bacteria. Mmmm mmm delicious. But really, it sucks and I'm kind of mad. I can't imagine it having been my board whack me in the face, it must have been a rock. Boo on that. That aside, the session was rather spectacular. Fun waves on all fronts.
Waves
Decent size, decent shape, decent all around. A little chilly and slightly overcast, but it cleared up enough to be an (overall) decent little day. Enough time on most faces for a few moves. Nothing like "oh my God wtf look at how spectacular that wave was!" But more like, "Oh man that was a pretty fun wave." Modest fun. Waist-shoulder high waves, mostly on the lowish end of that spectrum, most everything was chest high, with some monster sets every now and then.
Crowds
Quite a few out as compared to the past few days. There was a little hype for the swell pulse...which was fun, but not warranting the increase in people that it did.
Weather
The morning was cold. The day was warm. The sky was clear, the air breezy, offshore for most of the day it seems. Some little Santa Ana's going on---I drove through the canyon and WHAM, you could feel it there, pretty dang intense. Nice setup for tomorrow morning I'm sure.
Forecast
Looks OK. Decent South swell through mid next week. Potential NW swell this weekend, but I'm heading North where it will be GOOD. I am, needless to say, quite hopeful. Hopeful that my head won't hurt, that the hole will be closed, that my face won't be bleeding, and that I'll get some sweet video of Hurrican Choi-Wan up where real waves break.
Eventful Stuff
Nothing too eventful. Just the usual head injuries. Kind of sucks and makes me mad, but who do I have to blame but myself? I think I'll just take Friday morning off and go surf somewhere like Carmel on Friday, get some sweet uncrowded waves all to myself. Three days, I will be healed.
Wave of the Day
That's easy. One wave where a dad shouts to his son to go for it, who thankfully yields to me. I make the drop from pretty far inside, race against the closeout section where the dad was paddling, cutback right where the kid yielded the wave to me, made it through another section, a half cutback / readjustment, bottom turn, cutback, race the section, see it's going to closeout so I shoot up but don't have enough speed for an air so I do a little floater. I thought to myself, "Damn, I'm glad I went for that wave..." then touched the back of my head and winced in pain.
Summary:
Surfrider 2nd, Malibu
5'10" Quad Beauty
6:45-8:45
3-4ft with some slightly bigger sets
3/5
My head still hurts. Filled with gooey bacteria. Mmmm mmm delicious. But really, it sucks and I'm kind of mad. I can't imagine it having been my board whack me in the face, it must have been a rock. Boo on that. That aside, the session was rather spectacular. Fun waves on all fronts.
Waves
Decent size, decent shape, decent all around. A little chilly and slightly overcast, but it cleared up enough to be an (overall) decent little day. Enough time on most faces for a few moves. Nothing like "oh my God wtf look at how spectacular that wave was!" But more like, "Oh man that was a pretty fun wave." Modest fun. Waist-shoulder high waves, mostly on the lowish end of that spectrum, most everything was chest high, with some monster sets every now and then.
Crowds
Quite a few out as compared to the past few days. There was a little hype for the swell pulse...which was fun, but not warranting the increase in people that it did.
Weather
The morning was cold. The day was warm. The sky was clear, the air breezy, offshore for most of the day it seems. Some little Santa Ana's going on---I drove through the canyon and WHAM, you could feel it there, pretty dang intense. Nice setup for tomorrow morning I'm sure.
Forecast
Looks OK. Decent South swell through mid next week. Potential NW swell this weekend, but I'm heading North where it will be GOOD. I am, needless to say, quite hopeful. Hopeful that my head won't hurt, that the hole will be closed, that my face won't be bleeding, and that I'll get some sweet video of Hurrican Choi-Wan up where real waves break.
Eventful Stuff
Nothing too eventful. Just the usual head injuries. Kind of sucks and makes me mad, but who do I have to blame but myself? I think I'll just take Friday morning off and go surf somewhere like Carmel on Friday, get some sweet uncrowded waves all to myself. Three days, I will be healed.
Wave of the Day
That's easy. One wave where a dad shouts to his son to go for it, who thankfully yields to me. I make the drop from pretty far inside, race against the closeout section where the dad was paddling, cutback right where the kid yielded the wave to me, made it through another section, a half cutback / readjustment, bottom turn, cutback, race the section, see it's going to closeout so I shoot up but don't have enough speed for an air so I do a little floater. I thought to myself, "Damn, I'm glad I went for that wave..." then touched the back of my head and winced in pain.
Summary:
Surfrider 2nd, Malibu
5'10" Quad Beauty
6:45-8:45
3-4ft with some slightly bigger sets
3/5
Monday, September 21, 2009
The last day of summer is upon us!
Summary
But the spring suit trend will continue. The morning surf started out pretty strong, but as the tide rose it got progressively smaller and weaker. There were still some pretty fun sets but pretty darn inconsistent. Oh well.
Waves
I had some beautiful waves early on. Nice sets, good rides, a few turns and cutbacks, everything I expected and more. The tide was rising.
Crowds
Not bad at all. There were a handful out but, early on, given the great quality of the waves, it was not crowded at all.
Weather
Overcast, offshores early, chilly. It's not fall yet though...
Forecast
Looks decent, 3ft plus every day for the next week at least. I'm thinking about heading North for the big Super-Typhoon swell. That and I have to pick up some stuff from home, so.
Eventful Stuff
Nothing special.
Wave of the Day
The first wave I got. Chest high, beautiful. Drop, cutback, back down the face, cutback, down the face, started to close out so I cut up the face and whacked it.
Summary:
Surfrider 2nd, Malibu
5'10" Quad Beauty
6:45-8:45
2-3ft with some 4ft sets
2/5
Eric B.
But the spring suit trend will continue. The morning surf started out pretty strong, but as the tide rose it got progressively smaller and weaker. There were still some pretty fun sets but pretty darn inconsistent. Oh well.
Waves
I had some beautiful waves early on. Nice sets, good rides, a few turns and cutbacks, everything I expected and more. The tide was rising.
Crowds
Not bad at all. There were a handful out but, early on, given the great quality of the waves, it was not crowded at all.
Weather
Overcast, offshores early, chilly. It's not fall yet though...
Forecast
Looks decent, 3ft plus every day for the next week at least. I'm thinking about heading North for the big Super-Typhoon swell. That and I have to pick up some stuff from home, so.
Eventful Stuff
Nothing special.
Wave of the Day
The first wave I got. Chest high, beautiful. Drop, cutback, back down the face, cutback, down the face, started to close out so I cut up the face and whacked it.
Summary:
Surfrider 2nd, Malibu
5'10" Quad Beauty
6:45-8:45
2-3ft with some 4ft sets
2/5
Eric B.
Sunday, September 20, 2009
Surf surf surf...sleep sleep sleep...
First I'll start off by posting this little video. This is over this past week a few shots from each day. Pretty dang fun to fool with that camera, that's for sure. It doesn't fit in this frame so well but oh well, I'll make a better size next time =)
Summary
Fun, short, and overall decent but expectantly lacking. I thought the f0recast for the week was undercast, and felt that the weekend would be overcast. It was.
Waves
Decent. Closeouty shape, not particularly great, pretty crumbly, but I did have a few little mini barrels and a few great face-slaps. There was one sweet drop which I almost made into an air section. Unfortunately I was just a hair too late. Oh well, there's always the next six months of consistent waves...
Crowds
A handful out in the water surfing, but there was a Biathlon going on so there were probably three hundred people swimming across the whole of Zuma. Pretty sweet I think.
Weather
Overcast and chilly, offshore when I arrived and onshore by the time I left. Started earlier than today. It's sunny and windless now...
Forecast
Looks mediocre-good for the next week. Not big, but certainly fun.
Eventful Stuff
No Cam today. The Biathlon. No sleep last night. I'm exhausted. I have a cough that makes me sad...urgent care clinic it is!
Wave of the Day
I had a sweet little right barrel, probably just over a second. Nice little side drop right into it, but the offshores were still there so it cleaned the face up right away, no crumble just a nice little curl right infront of me. Then I got raped. Besides that I had a bunch of lefts, and a few really fun rights. This board is SO easy to be mobile with, it is spectacular. I can get nice little closers even on crappy nothing waves. It makes me feel special.
Summary:
Zuma 6, Malibu
5'10" Quad Beauty
7:45-9:00
2-4ft with a few bigger waves
2/5
Summary
Fun, short, and overall decent but expectantly lacking. I thought the f0recast for the week was undercast, and felt that the weekend would be overcast. It was.
Waves
Decent. Closeouty shape, not particularly great, pretty crumbly, but I did have a few little mini barrels and a few great face-slaps. There was one sweet drop which I almost made into an air section. Unfortunately I was just a hair too late. Oh well, there's always the next six months of consistent waves...
Crowds
A handful out in the water surfing, but there was a Biathlon going on so there were probably three hundred people swimming across the whole of Zuma. Pretty sweet I think.
Weather
Overcast and chilly, offshore when I arrived and onshore by the time I left. Started earlier than today. It's sunny and windless now...
Forecast
Looks mediocre-good for the next week. Not big, but certainly fun.
Eventful Stuff
No Cam today. The Biathlon. No sleep last night. I'm exhausted. I have a cough that makes me sad...urgent care clinic it is!
Wave of the Day
I had a sweet little right barrel, probably just over a second. Nice little side drop right into it, but the offshores were still there so it cleaned the face up right away, no crumble just a nice little curl right infront of me. Then I got raped. Besides that I had a bunch of lefts, and a few really fun rights. This board is SO easy to be mobile with, it is spectacular. I can get nice little closers even on crappy nothing waves. It makes me feel special.
Summary:
Zuma 6, Malibu
5'10" Quad Beauty
7:45-9:00
2-4ft with a few bigger waves
2/5
Saturday, September 19, 2009
Now I'm ready for a good night sleep...
Summary
Overall a fun session. The beginning was by far the best, but the tide was rising and wave quality (quickly) went downhill. By the end most everything was mushy closeouts spitting you out in 18" of water...
Waves
Some steep drops, fun turns, nice little face-whacks. Not so hot for "good" rides, but decent little drop & one big face slap, which left me happy...
Crowds
A bunch out, most surfing the non-breaking point and/or farther north (rights) of the bay / beachbreak. Eric and I were closer to the lifeguard station, and definitely having way more luck than most.
Weather
Overcast, a bit chilly air wise, but the water was nasty warm.
Forecast
Looks like there are waves all week. Not big, but I plan on surfing every day of fall, good waves, crappy waves, no waves, it doesn't matter.
Eventful Stuff
Nothing whatsoever. More camera footage, I had one notable wave that I got on it, although I have not edited / truly gone through it entirely today so I can't say for sure.
Wave of the Day
I got this wave recorded. Great open face, nice drop, straight not too steep of drop, shoot along, half bottom turn, cut off the drop & half wrap, but I'm getting too far ahead of the wave(which is about to closeout) so I cut back and whack the face of the wave. It was a glorious six seconds...
Summary:
County Line
5'10" Quad Beauty
7:00-9:00
3-4ft with inconsistent bigger sets
2+/5
Eric B
Overall a fun session. The beginning was by far the best, but the tide was rising and wave quality (quickly) went downhill. By the end most everything was mushy closeouts spitting you out in 18" of water...
Waves
Some steep drops, fun turns, nice little face-whacks. Not so hot for "good" rides, but decent little drop & one big face slap, which left me happy...
Crowds
A bunch out, most surfing the non-breaking point and/or farther north (rights) of the bay / beachbreak. Eric and I were closer to the lifeguard station, and definitely having way more luck than most.
Weather
Overcast, a bit chilly air wise, but the water was nasty warm.
Forecast
Looks like there are waves all week. Not big, but I plan on surfing every day of fall, good waves, crappy waves, no waves, it doesn't matter.
Eventful Stuff
Nothing whatsoever. More camera footage, I had one notable wave that I got on it, although I have not edited / truly gone through it entirely today so I can't say for sure.
Wave of the Day
I got this wave recorded. Great open face, nice drop, straight not too steep of drop, shoot along, half bottom turn, cut off the drop & half wrap, but I'm getting too far ahead of the wave(which is about to closeout) so I cut back and whack the face of the wave. It was a glorious six seconds...
Summary:
County Line
5'10" Quad Beauty
7:00-9:00
3-4ft with inconsistent bigger sets
2+/5
Eric B
Friday, September 18, 2009
You can't hold me back...
Summary
Fun session. Not big, not small, but fun. My new board is effing sick. So is the cam...
Waves
Decent. Not spectacular. Inconsistent, pretty workable, some super fun shoulders. I was surfing the point so that's usually got decent shape if there's any swell even if it's crappy. That said, the waves were not crappy, just few and far between, which was fine when there weren't a bunch of people out but once it got into the multi-dozens waiting for the same peak, I was over it.
Crowds
A handful out. Not crowded at all at the beginning, but there ended up being a decent little crowd...although nothing compared to what it could be given the (mid level) hype.
Weather
Started out beautiful, warm, sun making the sky glow. Just before the end of the session the fog rolled in and cooled it down a lot.
Forecast
Looks pretty darn decent for the next few days. I am quite hopeful. I don't think it will be as good as the forecasts predict, but I do think it will be fun.
Eventful Stuff
Go Pro. Yea, so fun. Sweet video. I finished my first video up this afternoon---I think it's pretty decent for a first go!
Wave of the Day
I had a few super fun rights from the point. The wave of the day for me I would say was the wave where one guy kind of frantically asks me if I'm going for it...I am. I paddle for this bomb---perfect positioning, the lady on the longboard was sitting just a little too deep, so I made the drop, pretty vertical, racing the face, there were a few turns mixed in there too...but it was just an exhilarating rush. Exactly what I needed.
Summary:
County Line
5'10" Quad Beauty
6:30-8:45AM
3-4ft with 5ft sets
3/5
Gary / David
Fun session. Not big, not small, but fun. My new board is effing sick. So is the cam...
Waves
Decent. Not spectacular. Inconsistent, pretty workable, some super fun shoulders. I was surfing the point so that's usually got decent shape if there's any swell even if it's crappy. That said, the waves were not crappy, just few and far between, which was fine when there weren't a bunch of people out but once it got into the multi-dozens waiting for the same peak, I was over it.
Crowds
A handful out. Not crowded at all at the beginning, but there ended up being a decent little crowd...although nothing compared to what it could be given the (mid level) hype.
Weather
Started out beautiful, warm, sun making the sky glow. Just before the end of the session the fog rolled in and cooled it down a lot.
Forecast
Looks pretty darn decent for the next few days. I am quite hopeful. I don't think it will be as good as the forecasts predict, but I do think it will be fun.
Eventful Stuff
Go Pro. Yea, so fun. Sweet video. I finished my first video up this afternoon---I think it's pretty decent for a first go!
Wave of the Day
I had a few super fun rights from the point. The wave of the day for me I would say was the wave where one guy kind of frantically asks me if I'm going for it...I am. I paddle for this bomb---perfect positioning, the lady on the longboard was sitting just a little too deep, so I made the drop, pretty vertical, racing the face, there were a few turns mixed in there too...but it was just an exhilarating rush. Exactly what I needed.
Summary:
County Line
5'10" Quad Beauty
6:30-8:45AM
3-4ft with 5ft sets
3/5
Gary / David
Thursday, September 17, 2009
Wednesday, September 16, 2009
Tuesday, September 15, 2009
Monday, September 14, 2009
Real, clean, fun waves. Yea yea yea!
Summary
G'damn that's all I want, ever. If it were like this every day life would be more perfect than it already is. So much fun I'm not sure I can reflect it in words. It was so good that I drove all the way back to Pepperdine to get an SD card for the camera since I forgot it...boo to that!
Waves
Well, the best ones were early on. Most all chest-shoulder high, but some head high bomb sets for sure. Super fun, sweet, long, fast, amazing in every respect waves. Life is good. Workable, fun. The cam doesn't do justice since I missed almost all the good waves with it on.
Crowds
A handful out, but far less crowded though far better than yesterday.
Weather
Sunny, slightly overcast, but beautiful and perfect in every respect. Yea yea! A little chilly but much warmer, MUCH warmer than yesterday.
Forecast
Looks like there are waves for the next week---not big, but waves are waves...maybe a few hollow Zuma or Westwards sessions?
Eventful Stuff
Other than the preacher preaching to everyone he could talk to, else me? Oh, I left the SD card at home, so I surfed for an hour then drove home and got it, and went back out. A waste of money, some would say. I say it was worth it in every way.
Wave of the Day
One of the early BOMB set waves. At least six foot, sweet drop, bottom turn & cutbacks, wraps, everything you could think of. So much fun. I would detail more but I'm blasted tired and getting up in 6 hours to go surfing so I'm going to pass!
Summary:
County Line
5'10" Southpoint
6:15-7:30AM, 8:00-9:30AM
4-6ft, a few slightly bigger sets
4+/5
G'damn that's all I want, ever. If it were like this every day life would be more perfect than it already is. So much fun I'm not sure I can reflect it in words. It was so good that I drove all the way back to Pepperdine to get an SD card for the camera since I forgot it...boo to that!
Waves
Well, the best ones were early on. Most all chest-shoulder high, but some head high bomb sets for sure. Super fun, sweet, long, fast, amazing in every respect waves. Life is good. Workable, fun. The cam doesn't do justice since I missed almost all the good waves with it on.
Crowds
A handful out, but far less crowded though far better than yesterday.
Weather
Sunny, slightly overcast, but beautiful and perfect in every respect. Yea yea! A little chilly but much warmer, MUCH warmer than yesterday.
Forecast
Looks like there are waves for the next week---not big, but waves are waves...maybe a few hollow Zuma or Westwards sessions?
Eventful Stuff
Other than the preacher preaching to everyone he could talk to, else me? Oh, I left the SD card at home, so I surfed for an hour then drove home and got it, and went back out. A waste of money, some would say. I say it was worth it in every way.
Wave of the Day
One of the early BOMB set waves. At least six foot, sweet drop, bottom turn & cutbacks, wraps, everything you could think of. So much fun. I would detail more but I'm blasted tired and getting up in 6 hours to go surfing so I'm going to pass!
Summary:
County Line
5'10" Southpoint
6:15-7:30AM, 8:00-9:30AM
4-6ft, a few slightly bigger sets
4+/5
Sunday, September 13, 2009
Don't run me over AND give me attitude
Summary
Sorry kneeboarders, but this douchebag lowered your status' in my mind, again. All in all a fun session, a bit inconsistent (surprisingly) but overall some fun to be had.
Waves
Good size, a little fatty shape. There were some sweet finishers but beyond that really not too much maneuvering. I don't want to say close-outy shape, but difficult to get in to, and difficult to maneuver on for sure. Why? I would go with the tides.
Crowds
Quite a handful out. So many so that I was worried about dings in my door.
Weather
Overcast and chilly. The water is quite a bit cooler than it was even yesterday. Tomorrow will be more of the same. Slightly bumpy texture on the waves, but no biggie.
Forecast
Looks like some more waves Monday and Tuesday. I am hopeful.
Eventful Stuff
Surfcam. I just got it today. I am very excited. It's going to be effing sick. I need to get some waterproofing rain-x or something, but somehow I think I'll manage! That and the kneeboarder who decides that even though I am out of his way, he should make an effort to run over me, then proceed to call me an idiot and throw a white-trash fit. Good job old man. Kudos on you sucking at life. I do wonder why you're not married.
Wave of the Day
I had some sweet waves. One right was a sweet drop, not too big but almost shoulder high, straight shot, half-face bottom turn, cutback off the top, then down the face, I see it walling up to close out, and a longboarder coming from the other peak of the wave, but I go for a little finisher and cut into the curl, shoot up for a little pseudo-air floater onto the breaking wave. Super fun stuff.
Summary:
County Line
6'1" Al Merrick MX
7:00-9:00
3-5ft with occasional head high sets
3-/5
Sorry kneeboarders, but this douchebag lowered your status' in my mind, again. All in all a fun session, a bit inconsistent (surprisingly) but overall some fun to be had.
Waves
Good size, a little fatty shape. There were some sweet finishers but beyond that really not too much maneuvering. I don't want to say close-outy shape, but difficult to get in to, and difficult to maneuver on for sure. Why? I would go with the tides.
Crowds
Quite a handful out. So many so that I was worried about dings in my door.
Weather
Overcast and chilly. The water is quite a bit cooler than it was even yesterday. Tomorrow will be more of the same. Slightly bumpy texture on the waves, but no biggie.
Forecast
Looks like some more waves Monday and Tuesday. I am hopeful.
Eventful Stuff
Surfcam. I just got it today. I am very excited. It's going to be effing sick. I need to get some waterproofing rain-x or something, but somehow I think I'll manage! That and the kneeboarder who decides that even though I am out of his way, he should make an effort to run over me, then proceed to call me an idiot and throw a white-trash fit. Good job old man. Kudos on you sucking at life. I do wonder why you're not married.
Wave of the Day
I had some sweet waves. One right was a sweet drop, not too big but almost shoulder high, straight shot, half-face bottom turn, cutback off the top, then down the face, I see it walling up to close out, and a longboarder coming from the other peak of the wave, but I go for a little finisher and cut into the curl, shoot up for a little pseudo-air floater onto the breaking wave. Super fun stuff.
Summary:
County Line
6'1" Al Merrick MX
7:00-9:00
3-5ft with occasional head high sets
3-/5
Saturday, September 12, 2009
Step Forward Day
Summary
I guess there is a lot going on in Malibu right now. Lanes closed for triathalons in the summer, masses of flags, motorcycle rallys, buttloads of busses, it's a crazy happening place. Not bad for 15,000 people. Oh, there's some waves too. Not a lot, not great, but there's a few.
Waves
Well, the world made it rough on any surfer today for parking. Pretty much none was free even at 6AM. Boo on that. I couldn't park at Zuma so I had to park over at Westwards. The tide was pretty fatty to there was some massive back wash. That and chilly overcast weather made my non-suited sesh pretty chilly. The waves were decent size and power, but very closeouty shorepound style. Yuck.
Crowds
No comment.
Weather
Overcast, chilly, variable winds, pretty weak overall. Today will not be hot, that I could have guessed and do now know.
Forecast
Looks good! I like waves. There will be waves tomorrow, the day after, and maybe even the day after that.
Eventful Stuff
Malibu. Step forward day. Busyness in every respect.
Wave of the Day
Well, since I pretty much only had one wave, that would be it. It was a chest-shoulder high surprise. Out of the blue it pops up, I paddle for it, make the drop, do a gradual veer left bottom turn across the whole of the drop, until I look left and see that it's going to rape me (and I'm surfing without a leash) so I cut up the face and bail. I make it and think, thank God that didn't grab me and spit me to shore...that's no fun.
Summary:
Zuma (by Westwards)
5'10" Southpoint
6:05-7:00
3-4ft w/ bigger (closeout) sets
1+/5
I guess there is a lot going on in Malibu right now. Lanes closed for triathalons in the summer, masses of flags, motorcycle rallys, buttloads of busses, it's a crazy happening place. Not bad for 15,000 people. Oh, there's some waves too. Not a lot, not great, but there's a few.
Waves
Well, the world made it rough on any surfer today for parking. Pretty much none was free even at 6AM. Boo on that. I couldn't park at Zuma so I had to park over at Westwards. The tide was pretty fatty to there was some massive back wash. That and chilly overcast weather made my non-suited sesh pretty chilly. The waves were decent size and power, but very closeouty shorepound style. Yuck.
Crowds
No comment.
Weather
Overcast, chilly, variable winds, pretty weak overall. Today will not be hot, that I could have guessed and do now know.
Forecast
Looks good! I like waves. There will be waves tomorrow, the day after, and maybe even the day after that.
Eventful Stuff
Malibu. Step forward day. Busyness in every respect.
Wave of the Day
Well, since I pretty much only had one wave, that would be it. It was a chest-shoulder high surprise. Out of the blue it pops up, I paddle for it, make the drop, do a gradual veer left bottom turn across the whole of the drop, until I look left and see that it's going to rape me (and I'm surfing without a leash) so I cut up the face and bail. I make it and think, thank God that didn't grab me and spit me to shore...that's no fun.
Summary:
Zuma (by Westwards)
5'10" Southpoint
6:05-7:00
3-4ft w/ bigger (closeout) sets
1+/5
Friday, September 11, 2009
The one day I raise my expectations...
Summary
I'm somewhat disappointed. I hate it when that happens. There were waves, some were fun. Nothing too hollow. Just a little too weak and gutless for a shortboard unfortunately. That said, I love not wearing wetsuits.
Waves
A little weak and small. There was supposed to be tropical swell, but I really don't see much of anything. It makes me sad.
Crowds
There were about a dozen others out. Mia and I were balling it shortboarding though, shredding the little baby waves. Too bad we didn't have longboards...
Weather
Sunny, warm, beautiful. Certainly a little chilly but not too bad all things considered.
Forecast
So-so short term, if today was this weak. That said, some swell is DUE Sunday into Tuesday---NW groundswell. Should be fun!
Eventful Stuff
First time I saw Mia all school year! Oh, and friends won $5,000, $2,000, and $1,000 last night at Rock the Brock. Damn that would be sick if I won.
Wave of the Day
I had a sweet little left. Three foot, decent wall, make the drop, go for a cutback but I see Mia. I keep going just chilling near here. Pretty funny because she looked at me for like 5 seconds, then bails the same time as me (as the wave fades...) Oh so much fun.
Summary:
County Line
6'1" Al Merrick MX
7:15-8:30AM
3ft
2/5
Mia
I'm somewhat disappointed. I hate it when that happens. There were waves, some were fun. Nothing too hollow. Just a little too weak and gutless for a shortboard unfortunately. That said, I love not wearing wetsuits.
Waves
A little weak and small. There was supposed to be tropical swell, but I really don't see much of anything. It makes me sad.
Crowds
There were about a dozen others out. Mia and I were balling it shortboarding though, shredding the little baby waves. Too bad we didn't have longboards...
Weather
Sunny, warm, beautiful. Certainly a little chilly but not too bad all things considered.
Forecast
So-so short term, if today was this weak. That said, some swell is DUE Sunday into Tuesday---NW groundswell. Should be fun!
Eventful Stuff
First time I saw Mia all school year! Oh, and friends won $5,000, $2,000, and $1,000 last night at Rock the Brock. Damn that would be sick if I won.
Wave of the Day
I had a sweet little left. Three foot, decent wall, make the drop, go for a cutback but I see Mia. I keep going just chilling near here. Pretty funny because she looked at me for like 5 seconds, then bails the same time as me (as the wave fades...) Oh so much fun.
Summary:
County Line
6'1" Al Merrick MX
7:15-8:30AM
3ft
2/5
Mia
Wednesday, September 9, 2009
Woah there!
Summary
Dang what a pleasant surprise. I didn't even get up early because I didn't think there'd be much of anything. Clearly I was wrong. Thankfully I was wrong. Surfing today is what I live for. Seriously, it wasn't spectacular, but it was unexpected and amazingly fun. The one day I don't bring a shortboard is the one day I truly want to shortboard...
Waves
Fun, good size, some hollow shoulders, some workable corners, lots of peaks, not super consistent but consistent enough. Perfect given the expectations and look of things as a whole. Thank you hurricanes!
Crowds
Quite a few out, but not crowded by any means. Certainly much less so than one would expect if there were expected waves today, which there were not. In a less confusing wording, it was not crowded because it was supposed to be lame. It was not lame, word got out, but it was still not crowded.
Weather
Sunny, warm, beautiful, offshore. Seriously perfectly beautiful morning.
Forecast
Meh. Looks so-so. Then it looks go-go. It WILL BE spectacular on Sunday, I feel it. I do I do...
Eventful Stuff
Nothing too exciting. Just good waves when there are not supposed to be.
Wave of the Day
Man, I had so many good ones I don't know if its worth it for me to even rank. I had probably two dozen super fun waves. Rights, lefts, fast, slow, turns, wraps, pumps, drop-ins, dropped-in-on's, pretty much as much fun as you can have on 3-4ft waves, I had.
Summary:
County Line
5'10" Southpoint
8:00-9:30
3-4ft
3+/5
Luke & some random freshman
Dang what a pleasant surprise. I didn't even get up early because I didn't think there'd be much of anything. Clearly I was wrong. Thankfully I was wrong. Surfing today is what I live for. Seriously, it wasn't spectacular, but it was unexpected and amazingly fun. The one day I don't bring a shortboard is the one day I truly want to shortboard...
Waves
Fun, good size, some hollow shoulders, some workable corners, lots of peaks, not super consistent but consistent enough. Perfect given the expectations and look of things as a whole. Thank you hurricanes!
Crowds
Quite a few out, but not crowded by any means. Certainly much less so than one would expect if there were expected waves today, which there were not. In a less confusing wording, it was not crowded because it was supposed to be lame. It was not lame, word got out, but it was still not crowded.
Weather
Sunny, warm, beautiful, offshore. Seriously perfectly beautiful morning.
Forecast
Meh. Looks so-so. Then it looks go-go. It WILL BE spectacular on Sunday, I feel it. I do I do...
Eventful Stuff
Nothing too exciting. Just good waves when there are not supposed to be.
Wave of the Day
Man, I had so many good ones I don't know if its worth it for me to even rank. I had probably two dozen super fun waves. Rights, lefts, fast, slow, turns, wraps, pumps, drop-ins, dropped-in-on's, pretty much as much fun as you can have on 3-4ft waves, I had.
Summary:
County Line
5'10" Southpoint
8:00-9:30
3-4ft
3+/5
Luke & some random freshman
Tuesday, September 8, 2009
Occasionally you can get some fun peaks to yourself
Summary
Quite a lot of fun. A little raw, a pretty little windswell look to it, some texture, but workable, pretty fast, and quite fun.
Waves
Windswell lines. Lots of waves to pick from, pretty decent (though soft) set waves. Decent drops, enough power to do a little maneuvering if you time it right. Better than the eyeball report was, and much better than I had expected.
Crowds
Solo at the point/bay for the whole session. Can't argue with that, even if it was imperfect. A handfull of wtf-are-you-doing folks went surfing down by the appts, but I don't think I saw them get anything.
Weather
Sunny, some clouds, beautiful morning. S/SE winds, pretty light, generally offshore, but definately had textured the ocean the night before.
Forecast
Meh = short term
So-so = longer term
Eventful Stuff
Leaping dolphins. Yep, like always. Poison oak sucks.
Wave of the Day
Sweet right. Almost 4ft drop (exhilarating...right...) nice little bottom turn, clip off the top, back down the face, a few more little pseudo fish pumps. I see it walling up but I see a possible little air section, so I fish-waddle up and down for some speed, race the wall and shoot up/slap the face. Not an air so much as a slap-the-closeout and stay grounded (or watered, if you will...) Fun.
Summary:
County Line
5'10" Southpoint
7:15-8:30AM
1-3ft+
2+/5
Quite a lot of fun. A little raw, a pretty little windswell look to it, some texture, but workable, pretty fast, and quite fun.
Waves
Windswell lines. Lots of waves to pick from, pretty decent (though soft) set waves. Decent drops, enough power to do a little maneuvering if you time it right. Better than the eyeball report was, and much better than I had expected.
Crowds
Solo at the point/bay for the whole session. Can't argue with that, even if it was imperfect. A handfull of wtf-are-you-doing folks went surfing down by the appts, but I don't think I saw them get anything.
Weather
Sunny, some clouds, beautiful morning. S/SE winds, pretty light, generally offshore, but definately had textured the ocean the night before.
Forecast
Meh = short term
So-so = longer term
Eventful Stuff
Leaping dolphins. Yep, like always. Poison oak sucks.
Wave of the Day
Sweet right. Almost 4ft drop (exhilarating...right...) nice little bottom turn, clip off the top, back down the face, a few more little pseudo fish pumps. I see it walling up but I see a possible little air section, so I fish-waddle up and down for some speed, race the wall and shoot up/slap the face. Not an air so much as a slap-the-closeout and stay grounded (or watered, if you will...) Fun.
Summary:
County Line
5'10" Southpoint
7:15-8:30AM
1-3ft+
2+/5
Monday, September 7, 2009
Thursday, September 3, 2009
A week without surf makes everyone sad...
Summary
But me more so than others. So I decided to go, even though I didn't really have any expectation of any waves. In the end there were some fun ones, far bigger than I had expected, and as such I had quite a blast. Thankfully I didn't have to sit on the beach when the water is over 70deg...
Waves
Surprisingly workable. A little fatty, but peaky because of the relatively short period tropical stuff. Not big by any means, but I had a few blowouts of the top of waves, and was schooled by a few closeouts. That and no leash made for quite a fun and relaxing session.
Crowds
A pretty hefty handful out for there not being any swell on a Thursday...
Weather
Sunny, warm, beautiful. Light SE wind, but nothing too bad. Smooth waves, not blown out at all.
Forecast
Bleh. Looks like crap. Small, bigger the beginning part of next week through the weekend, but not much bigger than waist-chest high sets. We'll see, I'm optimistic...
Eventful Stuff
I rocked my shoulder. It hurts like a beezy now. Slammed it into the (sandy) bottom at the end of a little closeout. The board went in to shore and I went "ouch".
Wave of the Day
There were a handful of pretty fun ones. Mostly when they started pretty far outside so it wouldn't wall up too quick. I was leashless so closeouts weren't much fun for me...grabbing and (trying to keep) holding the board. There were a few sweet rights and lefts, drop down the open face, bottom turn, cutback, wrap, race the face, lose, grab board from beach. Pretty much the same thing on every decently workable wave. Slow, but quite fun.
Summary:
County Line
5'10" Southpoint
2:45PM-4:30PM
1-3ft w/ slightly (ever so) bigger sets
2+/5
But me more so than others. So I decided to go, even though I didn't really have any expectation of any waves. In the end there were some fun ones, far bigger than I had expected, and as such I had quite a blast. Thankfully I didn't have to sit on the beach when the water is over 70deg...
Waves
Surprisingly workable. A little fatty, but peaky because of the relatively short period tropical stuff. Not big by any means, but I had a few blowouts of the top of waves, and was schooled by a few closeouts. That and no leash made for quite a fun and relaxing session.
Crowds
A pretty hefty handful out for there not being any swell on a Thursday...
Weather
Sunny, warm, beautiful. Light SE wind, but nothing too bad. Smooth waves, not blown out at all.
Forecast
Bleh. Looks like crap. Small, bigger the beginning part of next week through the weekend, but not much bigger than waist-chest high sets. We'll see, I'm optimistic...
Eventful Stuff
I rocked my shoulder. It hurts like a beezy now. Slammed it into the (sandy) bottom at the end of a little closeout. The board went in to shore and I went "ouch".
Wave of the Day
There were a handful of pretty fun ones. Mostly when they started pretty far outside so it wouldn't wall up too quick. I was leashless so closeouts weren't much fun for me...grabbing and (trying to keep) holding the board. There were a few sweet rights and lefts, drop down the open face, bottom turn, cutback, wrap, race the face, lose, grab board from beach. Pretty much the same thing on every decently workable wave. Slow, but quite fun.
Summary:
County Line
5'10" Southpoint
2:45PM-4:30PM
1-3ft w/ slightly (ever so) bigger sets
2+/5
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
