Saturday, September 26, 2009

Delicious...

Summary
Beautiful. Put simply, absolutely beautiful. Beautiful morning, beautiful day, beautiful ocean, beautiful everything. Spectacular.
Waves
The waves were pretty decent. Not huge, but certainly some big sets both morning and afternoon. Overall shape was pretty walled because of the general high tides. If it were a few feet bigger the steep dropoff would make for some hollow but make able closeouts...
Crowds
The morning was the most crowded I've seen since last fall, more than thirty out. The afternoon had a half dozen, far more spread out and much more make able shoulders.
Weather
Spectacular. Perfect weather, very very light onshore in the afternoon.
Forecast
Looks great for tomorrow! 1-2ft bigger than today at least, more consistent, Southern California should have some swell this week as well...
Eventful Stuff
The barking sea lion! What a riot. That thing was probably three hundred feet from me and still ridiculously loud.
Wave of the Day
I would probably say the last wave I got in the afternoon. Almost thirty seconds long from start to finish, massive right, make the drop, see this giant section going to closeout, so I veer straight to shore, it closesout and shoots water twenty some feet in the air, but there's a load of whitewater which pushes me all the way inside until the wave walls up again (much smaller) and starts breaking. Not "great" but really fun and surprisingly powerful.

Summary:
Dillon Beach, Marin
5'10" Quad Beauty   / 7'6" M13 Al Merrick
7:30-10:45AM / 5:15-6:45PM
4-5ft WNW / 5-6ft WNW
3/5

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