Summary
If only my camera would stay on the whole session...I think I've got a pair of defective batteries...nothing else really makes any sense. The surfing was a blast! Decently fast, pretty good shape, still a little closeouty. Beautiful morning, beautiful day, beautiful surf. Can't lose.
Waves
Not huge but comparable in size to yesterday. It was supposed to bump up a little bit, but at least in comparison to the afternoon it was a bit smaller, perhaps the differing tides or what not. Workable shoulders, quick drops, sharp bottom turns, a little face racing, and more than a handful of snaps.
Crowds
There were almost two dozen out. Not crowded, significantly less than yesterday morning, but certainly a relief. I find it pleasant when others are out here having a ball. It is inspiring to watch other people surf---it's half the fun of going.
Weather
Beautiful, sunny, warm, offshore breeze. The ocean was smooth, not glassy but certainly beautiful.
Forecast
SoCal looks somewhat dead this week. Hopefully things will pick up soon...it's a crime to be wasting this beautiful weather!
Eventful Stuff
Driving for seven hours back down South...not so excited. I am excited that my essay was canceled. Thank you Czar Schaffer! More surfing and less working! Very excited to be using this camera up North in the fall...it will be inspiring. I need me some 10ft barrels!
Wave of the Day
After I noticed the camera was frozen I took the next wave in to shore. This was a pretty sweet little right, drop, immediate cut left into the break, shoot right, wrap, keep going, and snap as it closed out. I thought to myself DANGIT, why does the camera have to not be working now...makes me sad! No biggie though, I got some good footage of earlier!
Summary:
Dillon Beach, Marin
5'10" Quad Beauty
7:00-9:00AM
4-6ft wind/groundswell mix
3/5
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