Summary
G'damn that's all I want, ever. If it were like this every day life would be more perfect than it already is. So much fun I'm not sure I can reflect it in words. It was so good that I drove all the way back to Pepperdine to get an SD card for the camera since I forgot it...boo to that!
Waves
Well, the best ones were early on. Most all chest-shoulder high, but some head high bomb sets for sure. Super fun, sweet, long, fast, amazing in every respect waves. Life is good. Workable, fun. The cam doesn't do justice since I missed almost all the good waves with it on.
Crowds
A handful out, but far less crowded though far better than yesterday.
Weather
Sunny, slightly overcast, but beautiful and perfect in every respect. Yea yea! A little chilly but much warmer, MUCH warmer than yesterday.
Forecast
Looks like there are waves for the next week---not big, but waves are waves...maybe a few hollow Zuma or Westwards sessions?
Eventful Stuff
Other than the preacher preaching to everyone he could talk to, else me? Oh, I left the SD card at home, so I surfed for an hour then drove home and got it, and went back out. A waste of money, some would say. I say it was worth it in every way.
Wave of the Day
One of the early BOMB set waves. At least six foot, sweet drop, bottom turn & cutbacks, wraps, everything you could think of. So much fun. I would detail more but I'm blasted tired and getting up in 6 hours to go surfing so I'm going to pass!
Summary:
County Line
5'10" Southpoint
6:15-7:30AM, 8:00-9:30AM
4-6ft, a few slightly bigger sets
4+/5
Monday, September 14, 2009
Real, clean, fun waves. Yea yea yea!
Labels:
4/5,
County Line,
Go Pro Cam,
legit surfing,
Socal,
Southpoint,
summer
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