Such nice winds

Summary
And such bad waves. Not bad, per say, but nonexistent.  Maybe I'm being a little harsh. The waves are there, you just really can't surf them because they're too small. But the offshores are nice!
Waves
LAUGH. Small. Billy was right, should have gone back to sleep. So much for keeping the surf every day this month goal...
Crowds
Read: Waves
Weather
Chilly as can be. Sweet Santa Ana's. Delightful winds. Offshore like no other. But no waves.
Forecast
Read: Waves
Eventful Stuff
Went to County with Billy early, didn't see anything, so we drove back to campus and he dropped me off. Then I put my Southpoint in my car and headed to Zuma. I thought I saw something on the drive down. I was mistaken. I didn't. Oh well.
Wave of the Day
Read: Waves

Summary:
Zuma, Malibu
5'10" Southpoint Fish
7:00-7:45
1-2ft, like one 3ft wave
1/5

Make my arms sore...

Summary
But really, that's what the ocean did to me today. It also got me quite a few sweet little rides, but mostly just a ridiculous amount of paddle-induced soreness. I counted after one crappy wave how many paddles to get back out---250. No joke, wtf? I didn't even have to duck dive. Little inside currents too...
Waves
Set waves trumped the crap that was breaking everywhere. The beach break was working pretty well, tide not too high, plenty of power. That said, I was on my fatty fish, so "power" is somewhat deceptive. The right board for the day, that's for sure. No problem on the drops, even somewhat maneuverable. Mushy waves, but big enough that there was a little oomph to them. That said, from the shore they look like crap.
Crowds
Not too bad. Just Billy & Co. There were a handful of others who came out...lots of guys on crappy foam boards, but surfing pretty well.

Weather
Chilly, but not too cold. Beautiful morning, nice little offshores.
Forecast
So-so.
Eventful Stuff
Lily's. Delicious. Life is good.
Wave of the Day
One of the lefts. Which one, I don't really know. Probably the Billy "that was a nice drop" wave. Sweet 4.5ft face, drop, two cutbacks, racing the face. Not bad for the morning, or for the board. I've gotten pretty good at putting some body turning into the fatty fish's waves.

Summary:
County Line, Malibu
5'10" Southpoint Fish
7:45-9:30
3-4ft (sloppy), bigger sets
2+/5
Billy & Co

Refreshing ocean

Summary
Decent little surf today. A little size, a little power, pleasant conditions, overall a worthwhile surf. It certainly energized me, inspiring me to accomplish a little something with my day today. Thank you ocean!
Waves
Surprising size. Somewhat inconsistent, but when the waves came they came with a vengeance. Most waves were the chest-shoulder high range, although there were a few overhead bumps rolling through the lineup. Those pretty much went unridden, slapping everyone in the lineup with a reminder that they should be out farther.
Enough power for a few turns, wraps, slaps, etc. Not fast enough for anything too special, but it certainly was shortboardable. I had a lot of fun on my fish. Unfortunately duck-dove into a rock and nicked the tip...again. At least that one is an easy fix.
Crowds
A handful out. Only one guy out when I paddled, then as people saw us ripping more and more came. The point was going off (as much as it can on windswell...)
Weather
Sunny, chilly, beautifully crisp.
Forecast
Friday should have 2-3ft NW windswell, as well as a little 3ft S
Saturday should have a little 3ft S.
Sunday hopefully some NW groundswell, 3-4ft, bigger sets.

Monday hopefully more NW groundswell, 3-4ft, bigger sets.
Eventful Stuff
A little seal playing upside down munching on some greens. Belly up, fins up, pretty cute. This one didn't scare me, though most do.
Wave of the Day




I have a video posted of this one. Pretty fun, slipping and sliding through the crowds at County. Decent little set wave, there were quite a few, though this is one of my three favorite of the morning.

Summary:
County Line, Malibu
5'10" Quad Fish
7:00-9:15
3-5ft sets

Publish Post

2+/5

Dolphins always make the day better!

Summary
Overall a pleasant, relaxing session. Small, relatively inconsistent, but beautiful. I was forced to rate it a poor session because the surf was overall truly lacking, but the truth is I had a relaxing ocean jaunt.
Waves
Small, weak, lacking. Some decent waistish high sets would come through, but overall not much room for manuverability. Slow takeoffs, nothing much more than a bottom turn and cutback before too much speed was lost. Oh well.
Crowds
Very few out. Not bad at all.
Weather
Spectacular. Warm offshore Santa Ana's, smooth ocean texture, beautiful sky, not a cloud in sight. Hard life living in Malibu, really.
Forecast
Looks pretty bleh this week. Picks up towards the end of the weekend, at least one decent W swell coming in, as well a few little South's (waist high or so...) Oh well, October was overall pretty consistent and a blast. Ending a little slow isn't the end of the world.
Eventful Stuff
I woke up late because I was exhausted. Same deal tomorrow...things should slow down this week so.
Wave of the Day
One of the only big faces I saw today. ALMOST chest high, the only bomb I saw out there all hour, drop, big wall, half-face bottom turn, shacked for probably two seconds, then the wave slows and I bail. Thank you offshores...


Summary:
County Line
5'10" Quad Fish
7:30-8:30
3ft
1-/5

Summary

Waves

Crowds

Weather

Forecast

Eventful Stuff

Wave of the Day

Summary:
Zuma, Malibu
5'10" Quad Fish
8:00-9:15
3-4ft sets
2+/5

Summary

Waves

Crowds

Weather

Forecast

Eventful Stuff

Wave of the Day



Summary:
C-Street, Ventura
5'10" Quad Fish
10:45-1:00
3-5ft sets
2/5

County Line
5'10" Quad Fish
4:30-6:45
3ft, 4ft+ sets
4/5

There we go!

Summary
If only Westward were as good as County today...there just wasn't enough swell for it to break right. I need me some barreled video!
Waves
Pretty decent (vetoing Surfrider session)...quality shape, decent size. Overall tons of fun. Workable shoulders, lots of turns, cuts, snaps, even a few little boosts. Mmm mmm delicious.
Crowds
Not too bad. Certainly quite a few out, but I have learned to deal. I'm pretty aggressive (but nice) in the lineup, not afraid to paddle for waves I think I can get. I can get most of them too, so it works out pretty well.
Weather
Spectacular. Beautiful. Light winds.
Forecast
Good!!!
Eventful Stuff
Surfing the point, what a blast! Very decent waves today! Nothing exciting however.
Wave of the Day
One of the waves I was like, "Nah, I don't need to try to video this wave it's going to be mediocre."
Nice steep drop, pop off the bottom, sharpish cut off the top, bottom turn, adjust, half second barrel closeout. There were tons of other fun waves, but getting barreled (even if it's small/don't make it out) is just so much cooler...

Summary:
County Line
5'10" Quad Fish
8:00-10:15
3-5ft sets
3/5

Surfrider 2nd, Malibu
5'10" Quad Fish
4:30-5:30
A FEW 3ft sets\
1/5

Umm, so where are the standup barrels?

Summary
I heard rumors about them from yesterday. Where the heck are they? I didn't see any! I did see a few sweet shacks, but maybe 1/5 people out there got a decent coverup. Even though my surfing was crap today, I was one of those 5. I have to say, getting barreled on a fish is a bit harder...so fast. No complaining from me though =)
Waves
Bleh. I thought it would be a lot better. Apparently the swell doesn't fill in til this afternoon, and tomorrow is when it's going to be good. Waist high on average, with some chest high sets, occasionally bigger (depending on the temperament of the ocean...) Fast shape, pretty typical Zuma. Not weak, but too fast. Fun but lacking.
Crowds
A pretty hefty crowd out, quite a few more than I was expecting. Westwards should be worthwhile tomorrow, bigger swell and smaller crowds.
Weather
Beautiful, spectacular, inspiring morning.
Forecast
Looks gooodddd. Weekend should be fun, plenty of west to keep it peaky!
Eventful Stuff
Nathan. Bumped my nose/upper lip on my board, not too bad (no break...) but certainly enough to make me uncomfortable. =(
Wave of the Day
The ONE good wave I didn't record. Slow drop, bottom turn, cut off the top, see the wave walling up, so I adjust perfectly, duck into the barrel, about 3/4 of a second and it continues into a shoulder, fades from there. Pleasant surprise. But...the camera was off.

Summary:
Zuma s9-11, Malibu
5'10" Quad Fish
6:25-9:00
3-4ft sets
2/5
Vortech, Billy

Meteor Shower!

Summary
But really, that is what I define my morning by. I saw a handful, only three I counted on the way out. In all fairness I was only out for 20m before first light. That and my cam ran out of juice. Sad day.
Waves
Fun. Really fun. Fast, decent size, workable, inspiring. Pretty decent little (decent sized) waves, more consistent than yesterday, comparable size/conditions.
Crowds
A handful out. Not crowded by any means, but few waves went unclaimed.
Weather
Light santa ana's, offshore early on, then still. The faces were beautiful, lots of hollow shoulders, everything an absolute blast.
Forecast
!!!
Eventful Stuff
Camera died. Meteor shower. Good life.
Wave of the Day
One of the unrecorded beauties. Decent, fast right. Sweet drop, bottom turn, cutback, adjust into the face, little 3/4 sec barrel, make it out, shoot up the face and race the closeout section. I lost, no finisher because I wasn't expecting to end so soon. Still lots of fun.

Summary:
Surfrider 2nd, Malibu
5'10" Quad Fish
6:25-9:15
4ft+ sets
3-/5

Not as small, just as fun...

Summary
In all seriousness, I had a blast. A surprising amount of swell both morning and afternoon. Pretty darn quality stuff too, no kidding around, spectacular shoulders to be had. Unfortunately my surfing was a bit off today. Oh well, can't win them all!
Waves
Waist-shoulder high sets at Surfrider 2nd. 1st was inconsistent as can be. There was one giant set that rolled through, I sat in the right spot for more than twenty minutes, but nothing else comparable rolled through, and I looked like an idiot on a fish. No more of that...2nd waves it was from then on. They were consistently 1-2ft bigger, way faster, and surprisingly workable given the "supposed to be OK 3ft" swell.
Crowds
1st was packed. 2nd had between one and two dozen out.
Weather
Beautiful. Cross/offshore winds.
Forecast
Looks good. Pretty decent swell through Sunday...should be a blast.
Eventful Stuff
Brian in the afternoon at Latigo, randomly. Some sweet waves out there...too bad it was so mushed by the wind. Certainly surfable, but not "good".
Wave of the Day
I had some sweet rights and lefts at 2nd. The best was one of those unrecorded moments...chest+ wave, beautiful drop, pop right up cutback, wrap, race, cutback, wave walls up, wave runs into another wave, the lump between the two pops me up about a foot, I land, skid for a second, then bail. That one was a lot of fun...

Summary:
Surfrider 2nd, Malibu
5'10" Quad Fish
7:10-9:00AM
3-5ft sets
3-/5

Latigo, Malibu
7'6" Al Merrick M13
5:15-6:15PM
4ft+sets
2+/5

Small but AMAZINGLY fun...

Summary
Seriously, now I remember why 1st is such an amazing spot. That wave is absolutely inspiring. When it goes off, it goes off. Doesn't matter what board you're riding, absolutely shreddable wave whoever is on it. Beautiful beautiful beautiful...hopefully I can get a few more not crowded mornings here this fall. I am quite hopeful.
Waves
Nothing. Then almost chest high beautiful sets of 2-3 waves. Just enough for all four people in the lineup. Spectacularly workable, seriously perfect in every way. Nice workable wall, hollow at some points, perfect for nice slices and cuts, always enough time for a nice snap at the end. Inspiring.
Crowds
Four out for my whole session. A few SUPers came out toward the end, but I was drained.
Weather
Spectacularly beautiful. Plenty warm, light breeze. Gorgeous morning.
Forecast
Looks great. A little south swell tue/wed, thursday-monday has a nice swathe of west coming in. Head high glory...I am STOKED for some more Westwards barrels...
Eventful Stuff
1st point, going off, with four people out. You'd think there was no light or something...but no, it was beautiful in every respect and STILL not crowded.
Wave of the Day
One right at first. Near four foot, perfect wave. Giant wall, drop, bottom turn, cutback, bottom turn, wrap, cutback, race, little barrel, snap. I was like, "WTF AND THERE ARE FOUR PEOPLE HERE AT FIRST?" Then a few more came out because some were watching on the beach...

Summary:
Surfrider 1st Pt, Malibu
5'10" Quad Fish
7:00-8:15AM
3ft (slightly+) sets
3/5

Two to start, one to finish

Summary
Quite frankly, I am surprised at the fun quality of the Zuma waves today. Fast, but big ol' shoulders to play with. Turns galore. Lots of folks out even though the swell was supposed to be dying down. I guess I just didn't pay much attention to the reports for Sunday, didn't think it was going to be anything special. In the end, it was pretty fun. Not spectacular, but pretty close.
Waves
Average waist-chest high sets, maybe SLIGHTLY bigger, but not much. Open shoulders, right place, right time kind of day. That said, I was in the right place at the right time a lot. Three amazing "wtf this is Zuma and it's not that big" waves. Good enough for me.
Crowds
A lot out. I ended up parking really far from my usual spot (9), and I'm thinking about surfing this spot more. Lots of rights, a few fast lefts, and amazing shape. I was genuinely surprised, what with the textured ocean and all. At least two or three hundred out scattered around Zuma. I went late, though.
Weather
Overcast, chilly, light breeze. Pleasant, but not warm.
Forecast
Tomorrow is up in the air, I'm going out but I'm not sure how early (depends on the CDIP at 7:00 tomorrow...)
Eventful Stuff
Stitches out tomorrow. Exciting day. Lots of little kids, some decent surfers, mostly the typical I-surf-once-a-month folks. Can't argue with that...more waves for me =)
Wave of the Day
I had three darn sweet waves. Two to start, one to finish. The first two were fast shoulders, quick take offs, sharp bottom turn, cutback, bottomturn, sharp cut off the top, wrap around, race the closeout shoulders, snap at the end. I was like, "wtf do I not have my camera on for...that would be a SWEET video..." I seem to surf better without it...oh well =)

Summary:
Zuma (creek mouth), Malibu
5'10" Quad Fish
8:00-9:00AM
4ftsets
2+/5

Some fun to be had!

Summary
Even though I went for a late morning surf, and the tide was maxed out, I was having a blast. I got my three sweet waves and decided to call it quits. Lots of work to do, I had no camera, the ultra-high tide was shutting it down, and I was pretty tired. All in all, a worthwhile morning. The afternoon was fun too.
Waves
Amazing shape in the morning. Quite frankly I was amazed. Tons of rights, a handful of lefts, all with wide open shoulders, enough for wraps, cuts, slaps, wiggles, waggles, and tons of popping up, down, all around. Perfect board for today for sure. I had a blast. The afternoon was a little blown out and closeouty shape, but there were some decent sets rolling through.
Crowds
Both in the morning and afternoon. Apparently there is more swell than I thought there was going to be---ended up to be moderate crowds at both Zuma and County. Zuma was full of (ripping) little kids. County of typical valley folk.
Weather
Overcast, a little chilly, cross shore breeze in the morning. The afternoon was still a little breezy, but sunny and quite warm. Lots of folks trunking it, I used my spring suit.
Forecast
Looks like fun. Waves for the next week! Yay!
Eventful Stuff
First time I've gone surfing with Brian. I've been out with him before, but first time I went with him. He rips, and he's a lot of fun to go out with.
Wave of the Day
Zuma wave for sure. Sweet drop, super sharp bottom turn, slap the top of the wave, down the face, bottom turn super sharp almost-fall-off-the-board cutback, race the face, wraparound, straightshot, walls up with a little snap at the end. It made me very happy.

Summary:
Zuma, Malibu
5'10" Quad Fish
7:00-8:45AM
4ft+sets
3/5

County Line
5'10" Quad Fish
11:45-1:00PM
2-4ft sets
2/5
Eric B., Brian

Ridic barrels at Westward...

Summary
Put simply, there was some pretty darn fun surf today. Lots of barrels, lots of shoulders, beautiful fun to be had both morning and afternoon. Can't argue with that.
Waves
Westwards was steep. Not big, but moderate sized fun. Mix of rights and lefts. The lefts were fast barrels, the rights generally had better, somewhat workable shoulders. Staircase was a mix of rights and lefts, much slower takeoffs, a little mushy but fun nonetheless. Workable on all fronts.
Crowds
Spongers at Westward. No one taking it too seriously, everyone out having fun. A handful at Staircase too, mostly just really bugger kids who wouldn't be quiet (or stop snaking...)
Weather
Beautiful. Sunny, warm, spring suit afternoon. Delightful weather all around. I love it. 
Forecast
Looks OK. Tomorrow should be OK, not great, after that the swell dies down a fair bit through next week. There will be more as there are a bunch of NPAC storms so shouldn't be flat anytime through the end of October.
Eventful Stuff
Stitches are no issue. I followed the rules and took 48hours off. No infection, they look good. Shouldn't be too bad of a scar. SICKKK barrels at Westward. So much fun, oh my god...
Wave of the Day
For Westwards wave, the barrel in the below video.

Summary:
Westwards, Malibu
5'10" Quad Fish
7:00-8:45AM
4ft+sets
3/5

Staircase, Malibu
5'10" Quad Fish
3:00PM-6:00PM
3-4ft+sets
3/5
Mia & Basil

Umm...yea. Eight stitches.

Summary
So my surf every day this month is now f'ed up. Thanks, face, for smashing into my board. Much appreciated. That said, this morning was surf filled. Stormy, but waves were had.
Waves
Crappy. Pretty bad shape, pretty sucky drops, pretty lumpy. I know my surfing was off. No biggie, but it certainly makes me sad. That and they owned me.
Crowds
There were about five others out, pretty much all ripping way more than me. I was just off I guess.
Weather
Overcast, rainy, ESE winds (cross), generally dismal. Unfortunately not inspiring. I should have just taken the day off...my loss.
Forecast
Looks good. Too bad I'm pretty trashed...the whole gash in the face and all.
Eventful Stuff
Slamming my head into my board really really really hard. Basically the end of a wave I jump off my board, and go to land on it, but my hand slips and the board smacks me in the jaw REALLY hard. By the time I get back to the car my board is covered in blood. So is one of my nice Al Mer shirts...boo
Wave of the Day
The smack-me-in-the-face wave. Surprisingly decent, 4 1/2ft wave, fun drop, slap the face, race it, starts slowing down so I kick out, board smacks me in the face. Wish my best wave never happened... oh well.

Summary:
County Line, Malibu
5'10" Quad Fish
7:00-8:45
4ft, 5ft+set
1+/5

Of course it gets better just as I'm leaving...

Summary
As I get back on the bluffs after my session, a consistent set of 4ft+ waves comes, each with enough for one big turn and a closer. I was spited by the ocean today. Can't win them all I guess. Overall the session was inconsistent, decent sets but peaky in random places. I tried the point but it wasn't working at all, so moved closer to the beach break. I had fun, but would have waited til 8:00 to go had I known it was going to clean up so much and be loads more fun towards the end of the session. Shortboard tomorrow hopefully!
Waves
Meh. Most of the session was 2-4ft mushballs. They look good, but they're hard to get in to, slow, and overall much prettier than they are good. That said, today had its gems. There were one or two decent fifteen second rides, fast shoulders with a handful of turns. Those were rare though...most were whitewater closeouts.
Crowds
I was the first out, three more guys came once I was in the water (trying) to surf.
Weather
Overcast, chilly, ENE winds (cross/off, but they turned more offshore towards the end, cleaning everything up...), rainy. Earplug day, no more sinus infections for me thank you. Hopefully this weather will help my allergies...I'm dying of congestion.
Forecast
Looks stormy tomorrow, much better Thursday, FUN Friday/Saturday/Sunday/Monday. After that, God only knows...
Eventful Stuff
The first Malibu rain in months...and months...and months. Probably since mid spring. It's good. No fires please.
Wave of the Day
Laugh. Hmm, chest high right off the point, did a sliding side drop (twin fin...) cut off the bottom, slapped the face, raced it for a few seconds, saw it was going to close out, shot up the (small) face and did as sharp a cutback as a 21" x 2.5" board can do. I wanted more...but they didn't want me.

Summary:
County Line, Malibu
5'10" Southpoint
7:00-8:45
2-3ft, 4ft sets most of the session
1+/5

Small...small surf...

Summary
Very, very small. Rather inconsistent, though surprisingly fun sets. I had a few surprisingly fun sets. Not particularly consistent, or big, but today had its moments.
Waves
Ankle to knee high for the most part, but there were a few (and I stress that intentionally) almost waist high sets. Those ended up being pretty fun, I had one little right barrel at 1st, and a few two turn waves. Given the size, it was fun.
Crowds
There were three out at 1st when I paddled out. A handful more came out as the morning progressed. All longboarding, else me.
Weather
Overcast, chilly, offshores, light rain. Ear plugs.
Forecast
Delightful. Rain, storms, south winds. Could be worse, at least there's some swell! Should be waist high + through early next week. Conditions are a little iffy, but I suspect the mornings will be fun.
Eventful Stuff
Nothing. Still fixing my beautiful blue board....it makes me sad.
Wave of the Day
I paddled over to 2nd and had a few fun waves over there. The best was an (almost) waist high wave, drop, race, cutback, race, snap. Not bad for being so small...

Summary:
Surfrider 1st/2nd, Malibu
5'10" Southpoint
7:00-8:00
1-2ft, a few 3ft sets
1+/5

There is a nap in my future...

Summary
There were five longboarders sitting 20 feet off the shorebreak at County. Needless to say, Leo was the right choice.
Waves
Not many. Not big. Pretty crumbly weak shape. The sets were pretty fun, but 10-15mins between them, so the little interm waves had to make due. And so they did...not much chance for turns, usually just cruising / wall up / snap.
Crowds
SOLO! There were a few surfers who were watching me surf for about 20 minutes. I made sure not to get any good waves so they wouldn't come out. Needless to say, if there were ONE longboarder out, I would have had no fun at all.
Weather
Overcast, chilly. Not too strong of breeze, but there was a little NW early. Probably blown out early in the afternoon.
Forecast
Mediocre/small tomorrow, then mediocre/big Tuesday/Wednesday, then fun/good size Thursday, fun/pretty good size Friday, fun/fun size Saturday, fun/fun size Saturday/Sunday/Monday. 4/7 good days in a week seems pretty good to me. I'm hopeful. I actually think that Tuesday/Wednesday are going to be fun, I'll just hit them both pretty early.
Eventful Stuff
I went to sleep at like 2:30...so I didn't sleep much at all. That is why I say I will have a delightful nap this afternoon. It will happen.
Wave of the Day
I had a few surprisingly fun waves. The best I would have to say was my (right...obviously) little waist high + set wave, actually broke off the rock, pretty fast, drop, wrap back, shooting along straight shot til it walled up and spit me out. Makes you think it's funny there's no one else out surfing...

Summary:
Leo Carrillo, Malibu
5'10" Southpoint
7:45-9:00
2ft, occasional 3ft sets
2-/5

I crave more...

...waves and Lily's...

Summary
Small, but remarkably fun. I wasn't all that hopeful, and the session started out pretty slow, but there certainly was some fun to be had. This weekend should be the smallest surf of the next week plus.
Waves
Small, but overall not that bad of shape. A little crumbly but not too bad. Slow enough that you can get a cut or two in most shoulders, fast enough that they're actually somewhat fun (for being small...)
Crowds
Hardly any out. The reports were for pretty small surf so no one decided to hit the beach. Oh well!
Weather
A little overcast and chilly. I'm pretty sure it was foggy the night before as the air was pretty moist and there was a little crunchy water texture on the sand.
Forecast
Small weekend, bigger week. S / W swells both fill in for most of the week, should be some sloppy head high swell, and lots of bacteria. No doubt in my mind that I'll get a few decent sessions in.
Eventful Stuff
Disneyland yesterday. Tired. Football post-session. Lily's. Busy weekend.
Wave of the Day
Eh, a little right. There were a few little mini-mini barrels. For the most part just drop, cutback, race closeout, snap. As workable of 2ft waves as you can get...

Summary:
Zuma S9-10, Malibu
5'10" Quad Beauty
7:30-9:00AM
3ft+ sets
1+/5

Even more waves...

Summary
Quite surprisingly, the October swell continues. I know this is not just my good attitude because there were probably at least a hundred others out today. All the forecasts I was looking at looked mediocre at best. Not saying it was great, but there were some pretty fun, punchy little waves. Most shoulders either walled up and barreled for half a second on the inside, or there was enough room for two or three turns. Fun.
Waves
Decent size, shape, consistency. Not great, but workable. I had low expectations so I didn't even bring my cam. I've decided I'm just going to leave it in the car from now on because every time I don't bring it I wish I had.
Crowds
Around tower 9 there were about two or three dozen out, off and on. Over the course of the session probably 50 or so total. Up and down the beach there were people scattered everywhere. Westwards didn't look like it was working though.
Weather
A little chilly, offshores, slightly overcast with the sun peeking through. Good conditions for surfing, although I wish I could sport the spring suit this early still...
Forecast
Meh for the weekend. Sunday looks OK, the rest of next week should be at least 3ft, then bigger as we head towards midterms / next weekend. I am quite hopeful that this month will prove to be quite worthy of an every-day-I-will-surf attitude. Yay!
Eventful Stuff
Disneyland. I'm pretty sure I saw some kind of big fish out in the ocean. I saw a splash and I heard a couple other people talking about it. Probably just a porpoise jumping up but I don't know for sure. Just psyching myself out because of the whole sunset shark-breaching sequence. Scary.
Wave of the Day
Once again, nothing spectacular. There were a few really sweet drops that I actually made (thank you quad fins), both rights, one walled up, did a half cutback off the top, adjusted, and got a nice 3/4sec barrel. The second was a slow-ish Zuma wave, almost chest high, sweet drop, cutback, wrap, cutback, wrap, wave dies. Lots of other fun ones too though.

Summary:
Zuma S9-10, Malibu
5'10" Quad Beauty
7:00-9:00
3ft+ sets
2+/5

Spectacular fun!

Summary
Sweet session. I was out there for a heck of a lot longer than I thought I was. Must mean it was good. It was very good, with intense waits between goodness.
Waves
Up and down. The good waves had some quality shoulders, two or three great turns on tons of waves. There was even one little mini air (sub 1ft). When the sets faded, everything disappeared. Oh well, when it was good it was good.
Crowds
The best part of my session had three people out at 2nd surfing one consistent, sweet right.
Weather
Sunny, offshore breezy, beautiful morning. Spectacular.
Forecast
Looks mediocre through the early part of next week. After that there should be some decent swell all through next weekend.
Eventful Stuff
Inconsistent. The session started out pretty powerful and good, after thirty minutes the waved disappeared for almost forty five minutes, then came back with a vengeance. Beautiful, quality, fun. Can't argue with that.
Wave of the Day

I had some sweet set waves. This was a chest high + wave out of the middle of nowhere, there was a guy a little farther inside paddling for it, but he looked at me seeing that I was in a better spot, gave me the nod, and I had a bomb wave. Sweet drop, pretty steep face, shot along the top, two sweet cutbacks, a section infront of me falls, I make my way around it, get two more turns in and a little closeout snap. Dang fun, probably twelve or thirteen second wave.

Summary:
Surfrider 2/3, Malibu
5'10" Quad Beauty
7:00-9:00
3ft, inconsistent 4ft+ sets
3+/5

Getting better!

Summary
Really though. More fun than yesterday. Faced with the same limitations though---inconsistent sets. All the people on shore see you ripping these waves and are like, "I should go out there." So it ends up getting crowded, even though there aren't that many waves. Overall quite fun, certainly worth it.
Waves
Were pretty good shape. A bit steeper, though a touch smaller than yesterday. Even better, more open, more workable shoulders. Nothing oh-my-god spectacular, but lots of fun ones, quite a few decent turns in. Can't argue with that. The weeks of "no swell" in Southern California continue... Started out OK, tide was rising, got pretty weak for a bit, then I moved a little closer to 2nd and Surfrider started going off. Became much more consistent (at least for a bit) with tons of waves to be had. Steep drops, a few little barrels, quite a few sweet turns. I think I'm going to put the FCS plug sticky on my shortboard...
Crowds
A tad less crowded than yesterday, although arguably much better. Probably 2-3 dozen total out 2nd/3rd, mostly by 2nd as the tides/size wasn't right for 3rd.
Weather
Mediocre. Beautiful sunrise, sweet lighting. All in all it was chilly, some pretty stiff offshores (hard life right?), and a little texture on the ocean (offshores again...)
Forecast
Looks good. I am going every day in October so it better be good. I don't like wasting my time =)
Eventful Stuff
Nope, no one wanted to go with me today. Their loss. Sweet session. Sweet session indeed.
Wave of the Day
Too many to think off. Really though, I probably had at least a dozen really fun rights, multiple turns, a few little barrels too. Can't argue with that. Steep drops even though the size wasn't much. The waves would jack up just before they'd start to break. Lots of fun.

Summary:
Surfrider 2/3, Malibu
5'10" Quad Beauty
6:45-9:45
3-4ft, bigger on the (somewhat) inconsistent sets
3/5

Delightful offshores...

Summary
Sweet. Pretty dang fun surfing, decent waves, beautiful offshores. Chilly, but worth the chill. Went out with Mia. Got some sweet footage.
6/31
Waves
Good size, good shape, hollow because of the offshores, all around beautiful. Unfortunately super inconsistent, consistent with the last few days...oh well. Pretty much what I was expecting (except way better...)
Crowds
Really not so much. There were quite a few at 2nd but Mia/I stayed away (aka farther inside, deeper...)
Weather
Sunny, beautiful, chilly. Spectacular sunrise.
Forecast
Looks pretty mediocre. There are waves through the weekend, but it will drop in size pretty significantly. I am hopeful for mid/late next week.
Eventful Stuff
Camera...sweet waves.
Wave of the Day
I'll post it on YouTube tomorrow. It's a pretty sweet one too. I had a few great ones, but I think this was the best of them.
Sweet drop, cutback/wraparounds/little cuts, lots of fun.


Summary:
Surfrider 2/3, Malibu
5'10" Quad Beauty
7:00-9:15AM
4ft+ on inconsistent sets
3/5
Mia

It seems I am in constant need of a nap...

Summary
Getting up early every day is draining. That and the whole 8.5 hours of class in addition to 3 hours of surfing. That said, both sessions were delightful, super fun, if a little inconsistent. Conditions were quite pleasant, nice offshores. Life is good.
Waves
Both were sets-only surfing. Non-set waves weren't even worth the energy of thinking of. That said, the set waves held some pretty decent potential. Surfrider sets were going off! A little tough on shape but overall there were some shoulders, some barrels, and some giant smiles. Latigo was SLLLOOOOWWW, I would have been better off on my Southpoint, but I still had a blast on the Beauty...

Crowds
Not. Surfrider had about a dozen out off and on between 2nd and 3rd. Latigo had one old guy and two USC kids. Overall not an issue once.
Weather
Beautiful skies, delightful offshores. Pretty bitter cold with those, though. Unfortunate...actually had to wear a wetsuit.
Forecast
Looks like fun! This weekend is pretty dead, but every day through it looks like it will be at least waist high. Can't argue with that. Maybe I'll even go to Topanga once?
Eventful Stuff
None.
Wave of the Day


















Summary:
Surfrider  /  Latigo Point, Malibu
5'10" Quad Beauty
6:45AM-8:30AM  / 4:30PM-5:30PM
4-5ft+ on inconsistent sets (both)
3/5

I need a nap...

Summary
Slow. Very very slow. Very very slow and very very inconsistent. I would have been better off on the Southpoint today---conditions just a tad too small for this board to really be working. I was hopeful because of last night's session.
Waves
Put simply, there weren't many. High tide, boo. It should be a bit more manageable tomorrow, but today it was a fatty lump for pretty much my whole session. That killed the shape of the (few) waves that actually managed to make it through. The sets had potential, but the ONLY wave that I was really excited for I got snaked by a paddle surfer. Non sets did not exist. Sets were between 3-5ft.
Crowds
There were about a dozen out at Latigo, not bad given the fact that Latigo, Surfrider, and Topanga are probably the only spots working anywhere in LA today...
Weather
Sunny, offshore at Latigo (thanks NW winds...), huge onshore chop everywhere else.
Forecast
Looks pretty decent for the week. At least 3ft every day, so it should be pretty fun. Good thing too, because at least the first half of the month will actually be surfable, thankfully. Tuesday on should have more workable spots north of Latigo as the windswell funk dies.
Eventful Stuff
Painful conditions. Other than that, really nothing so special.
Wave of the Day
This would be my last wave. Sitting just outside the shorepound, ready to go in between sets, I see a wave that looks like it might actually break. The other guy heading in starts paddling for it, misses it (fatty + tide) so I get it. Not huge, but between 4-5ft, good face, bottom turn, cutback, a little toddling around, then it hits the inside of the beachbreak, walls up, and closes out. I make it off just in time. Fun.

Summary:
Latigo Point, Malibu
5'10" Quad Beauty
7:30-9:15
4-5ft on the VERY inconsistent sets
2/5 (only because the sets were few, and very far between

A little unexpected fun!

Summary
Both the morning and the afternoon sessions were delightful, refreshing, and wave filled. Zuma was OK, Latigo was pretty delicious. The whole late-afternoon low tide worked out pretty well, giving the waves a surprising amount of push even when there wasn't a whole lot of swell in the water.
Waves
Morning was waist-chest high on the sets, pretty quick and powerful. The afternoon was chest-shoulder high on sets, a bit more consistent, a fair amount bumpier and cooler.
Crowds
Not at either. There were a few out at Zuma in the morn (no alarm so I didn't go out too early) but not crowded. A handful at Latigo as well, but certainly no more than half a dozen.
Weather
Sunny, warm, both morning and afternoon. There were some pretty stiff W/WSW winds in the afternoon, so Latigo was working but not as clean as I was hoping/expecting.
Forecast
Tomorrow looks vicious. After that we'll see, next week should be pretty fun overall though---at least waist high every day through the weekend. I'm hopeful.
Eventful Stuff
Zombieland...hilarious.
Wave of the Day
No "awesome Latigo waves" but some sweet little rides. A few turns, bottom turns, (slowish) cutbacks, wraps, very workable (and lovable) waves...pretty darn sweet for an afternoon surf!

Summary:
Zuma, Malibu  / Latigo, Malibu
5'10" Quad Beauty
7:30-9:00 / 5:15-6:30
3ft, occasionally 4ft / 4-5ft sets
3/5

...time to wake up and surf!

Summary
Given how small the waves are, this surf was amazingly refreshing and fun. There were some decent shaped, small sized but peaky waves. Zuma is a safe bet if the swell is jarbled, because something is working somewhere on it. There were some decent cross/offshore winds, I think the leftovers of a light Santa Ana flow from yesterday.
2/31 complete
Waves
Decent. Usually not much time for more than drop, race, snap, but even those were pretty fun. The waves were a little choppy as the windswell giving us these is pretty local, but nonetheless quite doable.
Crowds
Surprisingly there were at least a hundred out up and down Zuma. I guess it's not surprising being fall and all in Malibu, plus I went quite a bit later than I usually do. No issue with crowds, though, as there was plenty of room for everyone.
Weather
Beautifully sunny, relatively warm, some light cross/off (just beginning to turn more onshore as I was leaving).
Forecast
Looks pretty tasty. What with a full moon tomorrow and all, the little 3-5ft S swell should prove to be quite fun in the coming days. I might head up to Jalama tomorrow morning with a friend, it's up in the air but there is certainly some swell up North and conditions are looking pretty optimistic. I am hopeful.
Eventful Stuff
Some old guy on the beach had a heart attack (guessing). An ambulance and half a dozen emergency vehicles. Excessive show of force Malibu...
Wave of the Day
Ah, there were a lot of fun little rights. I would have to say my WOTD was a waist high right, drop, race, see the closeout coming so I snapped the face in the perfect spot, ended up on top of the wish wash shooting to shore. Pretty awesome.

Summary:
Zuma s10, Malibu
5'10" Southpoint Fish
10:15-11:15
2ft, occasionally 3ft+ on sets
2/5

I will surf every day in October

At least once.

Summary
Sweet. Santa Ana's, a little south swell, a little west swell. Fun waves, beautiful place, great day, life is good.
Waves
Not big, most everything waist high, some bigger sets rolling through every now and then. Pretty fun and workable too, even a few fast (and hollow!) waves. Can't argue with that. Looking at the ocean from the shore one doesn't see much happening, but all in all the waves were a great deal of fun.
Crowds
There were a handful out, but a small handful. Fifteen tops at all of County. Surprising as the waves were pretty dang sweet.
Weather
Sunny, warm wind, offshores. Beautiful.
Forecast
Looks like there's waves every day for the next week. Saturday afternoon/Sunday should be fun.
Eventful Stuff
2 1/2 hours of sleep...6 pages of essay writing...surfing at 6AM...hard life.
Wave of the Day
Well, I got most of the session on video. There were a handful of sweet, fast turn, big carves, even a few little barrels! Quite exciting. Not going to go too much into detail because there isn't much more to say, five or six second waves, fast, steep, fun.

Summary:
County Line, Malibu
5'10" Quad Beauty
6:30-8:00
2-3ft, 4ft sets
3/5
Billy & Co