Summary
In all seriousness, I had a blast. A surprising amount of swell both morning and afternoon. Pretty darn quality stuff too, no kidding around, spectacular shoulders to be had. Unfortunately my surfing was a bit off today. Oh well, can't win them all!
Waves
Waist-shoulder high sets at Surfrider 2nd. 1st was inconsistent as can be. There was one giant set that rolled through, I sat in the right spot for more than twenty minutes, but nothing else comparable rolled through, and I looked like an idiot on a fish. No more of that...2nd waves it was from then on. They were consistently 1-2ft bigger, way faster, and surprisingly workable given the "supposed to be OK 3ft" swell.
Crowds
1st was packed. 2nd had between one and two dozen out.
Weather
Beautiful. Cross/offshore winds.
Forecast
Looks good. Pretty decent swell through Sunday...should be a blast.
Eventful Stuff
Brian in the afternoon at Latigo, randomly. Some sweet waves out there...too bad it was so mushed by the wind. Certainly surfable, but not "good".
Wave of the Day
I had some sweet rights and lefts at 2nd. The best was one of those unrecorded moments...chest+ wave, beautiful drop, pop right up cutback, wrap, race, cutback, wave walls up, wave runs into another wave, the lump between the two pops me up about a foot, I land, skid for a second, then bail. That one was a lot of fun...
Summary:
Surfrider 2nd, Malibu
5'10" Quad Fish
7:10-9:00AM
3-5ft sets
3-/5
Latigo, Malibu
7'6" Al Merrick M13
5:15-6:15PM
4ft+sets
2+/5
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