Summary
Seriously, now I remember why 1st is such an amazing spot. That wave is absolutely inspiring. When it goes off, it goes off. Doesn't matter what board you're riding, absolutely shreddable wave whoever is on it. Beautiful beautiful beautiful...hopefully I can get a few more not crowded mornings here this fall. I am quite hopeful.
Waves
Nothing. Then almost chest high beautiful sets of 2-3 waves. Just enough for all four people in the lineup. Spectacularly workable, seriously perfect in every way. Nice workable wall, hollow at some points, perfect for nice slices and cuts, always enough time for a nice snap at the end. Inspiring.
Crowds
Four out for my whole session. A few SUPers came out toward the end, but I was drained.
Weather
Spectacularly beautiful. Plenty warm, light breeze. Gorgeous morning.
Forecast
Looks great. A little south swell tue/wed, thursday-monday has a nice swathe of west coming in. Head high glory...I am STOKED for some more Westwards barrels...
Eventful Stuff
1st point, going off, with four people out. You'd think there was no light or something...but no, it was beautiful in every respect and STILL not crowded.
Wave of the Day
One right at first. Near four foot, perfect wave. Giant wall, drop, bottom turn, cutback, bottom turn, wrap, cutback, race, little barrel, snap. I was like, "WTF AND THERE ARE FOUR PEOPLE HERE AT FIRST?" Then a few more came out because some were watching on the beach...
Summary:
Surfrider 1st Pt, Malibu
5'10" Quad Fish
7:00-8:15AM
3ft (slightly+) sets
3/5
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