Summary
There were five longboarders sitting 20 feet off the shorebreak at County. Needless to say, Leo was the right choice.
Waves
Not many. Not big. Pretty crumbly weak shape. The sets were pretty fun, but 10-15mins between them, so the little interm waves had to make due. And so they did...not much chance for turns, usually just cruising / wall up / snap.
Crowds
SOLO! There were a few surfers who were watching me surf for about 20 minutes. I made sure not to get any good waves so they wouldn't come out. Needless to say, if there were ONE longboarder out, I would have had no fun at all.
Weather
Overcast, chilly. Not too strong of breeze, but there was a little NW early. Probably blown out early in the afternoon.
Forecast
Mediocre/small tomorrow, then mediocre/big Tuesday/Wednesday, then fun/good size Thursday, fun/pretty good size Friday, fun/fun size Saturday, fun/fun size Saturday/Sunday/Monday. 4/7 good days in a week seems pretty good to me. I'm hopeful. I actually think that Tuesday/Wednesday are going to be fun, I'll just hit them both pretty early.
Eventful Stuff
I went to sleep at like 2:30...so I didn't sleep much at all. That is why I say I will have a delightful nap this afternoon. It will happen.
Wave of the Day
I had a few surprisingly fun waves. The best I would have to say was my (right...obviously) little waist high + set wave, actually broke off the rock, pretty fast, drop, wrap back, shooting along straight shot til it walled up and spit me out. Makes you think it's funny there's no one else out surfing...
Summary:
Leo Carrillo, Malibu
5'10" Southpoint
7:45-9:00
2ft, occasional 3ft sets
2-/5
Sunday, October 11, 2009
There is a nap in my future...
Labels:
2/5,
fall,
inconsistent,
Leo Carrillo,
Malibu,
Socal,
solo session,
Southpoint,
surfing
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