Tuesday, October 13, 2009

Of course it gets better just as I'm leaving...

Summary
As I get back on the bluffs after my session, a consistent set of 4ft+ waves comes, each with enough for one big turn and a closer. I was spited by the ocean today. Can't win them all I guess. Overall the session was inconsistent, decent sets but peaky in random places. I tried the point but it wasn't working at all, so moved closer to the beach break. I had fun, but would have waited til 8:00 to go had I known it was going to clean up so much and be loads more fun towards the end of the session. Shortboard tomorrow hopefully!
Waves
Meh. Most of the session was 2-4ft mushballs. They look good, but they're hard to get in to, slow, and overall much prettier than they are good. That said, today had its gems. There were one or two decent fifteen second rides, fast shoulders with a handful of turns. Those were rare though...most were whitewater closeouts.
Crowds
I was the first out, three more guys came once I was in the water (trying) to surf.
Weather
Overcast, chilly, ENE winds (cross/off, but they turned more offshore towards the end, cleaning everything up...), rainy. Earplug day, no more sinus infections for me thank you. Hopefully this weather will help my allergies...I'm dying of congestion.
Forecast
Looks stormy tomorrow, much better Thursday, FUN Friday/Saturday/Sunday/Monday. After that, God only knows...
Eventful Stuff
The first Malibu rain in months...and months...and months. Probably since mid spring. It's good. No fires please.
Wave of the Day
Laugh. Hmm, chest high right off the point, did a sliding side drop (twin fin...) cut off the bottom, slapped the face, raced it for a few seconds, saw it was going to close out, shot up the (small) face and did as sharp a cutback as a 21" x 2.5" board can do. I wanted more...but they didn't want me.

Summary:
County Line, Malibu
5'10" Southpoint
7:00-8:45
2-3ft, 4ft sets most of the session
1+/5

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