Summary
But really, that's what the ocean did to me today. It also got me quite a few sweet little rides, but mostly just a ridiculous amount of paddle-induced soreness. I counted after one crappy wave how many paddles to get back out---250. No joke, wtf? I didn't even have to duck dive. Little inside currents too...
Waves
Set waves trumped the crap that was breaking everywhere. The beach break was working pretty well, tide not too high, plenty of power. That said, I was on my fatty fish, so "power" is somewhat deceptive. The right board for the day, that's for sure. No problem on the drops, even somewhat maneuverable. Mushy waves, but big enough that there was a little oomph to them. That said, from the shore they look like crap.
Crowds
Not too bad. Just Billy & Co. There were a handful of others who came out...lots of guys on crappy foam boards, but surfing pretty well.
Weather
Chilly, but not too cold. Beautiful morning, nice little offshores.
Forecast
So-so.
Eventful Stuff
Lily's. Delicious. Life is good.
Wave of the Day
One of the lefts. Which one, I don't really know. Probably the Billy "that was a nice drop" wave. Sweet 4.5ft face, drop, two cutbacks, racing the face. Not bad for the morning, or for the board. I've gotten pretty good at putting some body turning into the fatty fish's waves.
Summary:
County Line, Malibu
5'10" Southpoint Fish
7:45-9:30
3-4ft (sloppy), bigger sets
2+/5
Billy & Co
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