Summary
But really, that is what I define my morning by. I saw a handful, only three I counted on the way out. In all fairness I was only out for 20m before first light. That and my cam ran out of juice. Sad day.
Waves
Fun. Really fun. Fast, decent size, workable, inspiring. Pretty decent little (decent sized) waves, more consistent than yesterday, comparable size/conditions.
Crowds
A handful out. Not crowded by any means, but few waves went unclaimed.
Weather
Light santa ana's, offshore early on, then still. The faces were beautiful, lots of hollow shoulders, everything an absolute blast.
Forecast
!!!
Eventful Stuff
Camera died. Meteor shower. Good life.
Wave of the Day
One of the unrecorded beauties. Decent, fast right. Sweet drop, bottom turn, cutback, adjust into the face, little 3/4 sec barrel, make it out, shoot up the face and race the closeout section. I lost, no finisher because I wasn't expecting to end so soon. Still lots of fun.
Summary:
Surfrider 2nd, Malibu
5'10" Quad Fish
6:25-9:15
4ft+ sets
3-/5
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