Summary
Big board, big fun. Fun to be had. Fun was had. Overall a worthy morning (and not so worthy afternoon paddle...) of beautiful offshores and surprisingly quality shape waves.
Waves
Decent size, good texture, beautiful shoulders. Can't argue with windswell when it's in clean long lines, clear shoulders, and with very few closeouts. Not hollow, but certainly some potential hiding within these waves. Since I was on the big board, not a ton of sharp turns, but as sharp of turns as you can get out of a 7'6"...
Crowds
There were seven or eight others out, off and on for the whole session. Even a few out before me!
Weather
Sunny, pretty stiff SE offshore breeze cleaning up the faces. Spectacular morning.
Forecast
Tomorrow looks like it's it...then the windswell dies for a week. A little South groundswell, so I might have to hit up Bolinas early later on this weekend. We'll see...
Eventful Stuff
Hilarious---a Seagull somehow snags a fish. Goes in the air---fish wiggling---and another seagull smacks it, knocks the fish out of the first's mouth, and the fish gets away. Goes to show---crime is lose lose.
Wave of the Day
Surprisingly fun left. Booked it into a sweet drop, doodling around on the wave and the section ahead jacks up, starts a little lip towards me. I cut up the face and turn around, shooting into the now right wave. Section pops up ahead of me going right, so I slap the lip and turn around going left again until the wave slaps me on the face. It was surprisingly exhilarating because for being a big board I made just about as sharp of turns as you can make. Big blue never diasppoints.
Summary:
Dillon Beach, Marin County
7'6" Al Merrick M13
6:15-8:15AM
4-5ft with 6ft sets
3/5
Dillon Beach, Marin County
5'10" Southpoint Fish
5:00-6:15PM
3-5ft choppy windswell
1/5
Tuesday, June 30, 2009
Monday, June 29, 2009
Offshore winds what?
Summary
Umm...lots of offshore wind, lots of windswell, a surprising amount of fun. Beautiful, clear, crisp morning.
Waves
Good size, fast, pretty decent shape. Surprisingly difficult drops, shoulders a little elusive, but certainly some fun to be had. Not a ton of potential for turns, but most waves were bottom turn plus one or two little adjustments. Not spectacular, but certainly not bad.
Crowds
Not. Three others out all longboarding.
Weather
Beautiful. Moderate consistent offshores for the whole session. Sun was out, spray was up, waves were there. If only I had a camera...
Forecast
Tuesday/Wednesday look like fun. Winds are great all week but the swell is pretty weak from then on. A little South swell early next week, we'll see what potential it holds.
Eventful Stuff
There was a sea lion that thought it was a dolphin. Literally. This thing was jumping out of the water every breath it took for twenty minutes. At first it scared me because I couldn't see what it was, I just saw big splashes a few hundred feet away. Makes the morning entertaining, that's for sure.
Wave of the Day
There were some fun ones. I would have been better off on the Fish but I still got some decent ones with some decent drops and sharp turns.
Summary:
Dillon Beach, Marin County
6'1" Al Merrick MX
6:15-8:30AM
4-5ft with bigger sets
3/5
Umm...lots of offshore wind, lots of windswell, a surprising amount of fun. Beautiful, clear, crisp morning.
Waves
Good size, fast, pretty decent shape. Surprisingly difficult drops, shoulders a little elusive, but certainly some fun to be had. Not a ton of potential for turns, but most waves were bottom turn plus one or two little adjustments. Not spectacular, but certainly not bad.
Crowds
Not. Three others out all longboarding.
Weather
Beautiful. Moderate consistent offshores for the whole session. Sun was out, spray was up, waves were there. If only I had a camera...
Forecast
Tuesday/Wednesday look like fun. Winds are great all week but the swell is pretty weak from then on. A little South swell early next week, we'll see what potential it holds.
Eventful Stuff
There was a sea lion that thought it was a dolphin. Literally. This thing was jumping out of the water every breath it took for twenty minutes. At first it scared me because I couldn't see what it was, I just saw big splashes a few hundred feet away. Makes the morning entertaining, that's for sure.
Wave of the Day
There were some fun ones. I would have been better off on the Fish but I still got some decent ones with some decent drops and sharp turns.
Summary:
Dillon Beach, Marin County
6'1" Al Merrick MX
6:15-8:30AM
4-5ft with bigger sets
3/5
Sunday, June 28, 2009
A foray
Summary
Fun. Lots of work, but fun.
Waves
Good size, poor to good shape, lots and lots of very fast, very fun shoulders. Shoulder to overhead in size, not hollow but certainly giant workable walls. Not fun to paddle out in...
Crowds
Only three out at first, but over the next hour about fifty more stopped in. Not crowded but certainly quite a few out.
Weather
Sunny, clear, beautiful. Early offshore winds, turned light onshore around 8:30.
Forecast
Winds look spectacular for the next week. Windswell for the next week...short period. Should be surfable. Monday/Tuesday bigger, then it tapers off. I am optimistic...tides improve, surf should be pretty fun this next week.
Eventful Stuff
Dillon Beach looked pretty dead so I decided to head up North. Good choice.
Wave of the Day
Sweet right. Seven foot drop, deep dig at the bottom, shoot up the face, cutback, back down the face, starts to section so I shoot back up and slap the section, race through the rest of the section, then it starts to closeout so I shoot off it.
Summary:
Salmon Creek, Sonoma County
5'10" Southpoint
6:45-9:00
5-6ft, 8ft+sets
3/5
Fun. Lots of work, but fun.
Waves
Good size, poor to good shape, lots and lots of very fast, very fun shoulders. Shoulder to overhead in size, not hollow but certainly giant workable walls. Not fun to paddle out in...
Crowds
Only three out at first, but over the next hour about fifty more stopped in. Not crowded but certainly quite a few out.
Weather
Sunny, clear, beautiful. Early offshore winds, turned light onshore around 8:30.
Forecast
Winds look spectacular for the next week. Windswell for the next week...short period. Should be surfable. Monday/Tuesday bigger, then it tapers off. I am optimistic...tides improve, surf should be pretty fun this next week.
Eventful Stuff
Dillon Beach looked pretty dead so I decided to head up North. Good choice.
Wave of the Day
Sweet right. Seven foot drop, deep dig at the bottom, shoot up the face, cutback, back down the face, starts to section so I shoot back up and slap the section, race through the rest of the section, then it starts to closeout so I shoot off it.
Summary:
Salmon Creek, Sonoma County
5'10" Southpoint
6:45-9:00
5-6ft, 8ft+sets
3/5
Saturday, June 27, 2009
Fun in the sun!
Summary
Certainly an arm-tiring workout. Not as much as the past few days, but today there was a little current. Fun, a few turns here and there, lots of waves to chose from.
Waves
Decent size, decent shape. A lot of closeouts, but some gems for sure. Workable waves. Big drops, decent rides. Can't argue with that.
Crowds
Surprisingly few people out given workable conditions. Only a handful, less than a dozen out my whole session.
Weather
Sunny, warm, beautiful. Nice little offshore winds until around 8. Today is going to be super warm too, probably mid 70's here at the beach.
Forecast
Waves look mediocre, but the winds are looking good every morning for the next week. I'm excited. A little South swell on the line for next weekend too.
Eventful Stuff
Other than a beautiful, quality morning? Low tide sucks. I dislike it.
Wave of the Day
There were a few pretty decent ones.
One wasn't a particularly great wave, it was just a sick ride. Steep right drop, bottom turn, cutback then immediately a wraparound, immediately another wrap around, then a last wrap around into the closeout.
The next was a good wave with potential. Sick drop, it sections, but I make it to the shoulder, wave walls up perfectly, a little turn off the top, a cutback, then I f up the second cutback. Still a pretty sick ride.
Summary:
Dillon Beach, Marin County
5'10" Southpoint
6:15-8:45AM
4-6ft with bigger sets
2+/5
Certainly an arm-tiring workout. Not as much as the past few days, but today there was a little current. Fun, a few turns here and there, lots of waves to chose from.
Waves
Decent size, decent shape. A lot of closeouts, but some gems for sure. Workable waves. Big drops, decent rides. Can't argue with that.
Crowds
Surprisingly few people out given workable conditions. Only a handful, less than a dozen out my whole session.
Weather
Sunny, warm, beautiful. Nice little offshore winds until around 8. Today is going to be super warm too, probably mid 70's here at the beach.
Forecast
Waves look mediocre, but the winds are looking good every morning for the next week. I'm excited. A little South swell on the line for next weekend too.
Eventful Stuff
Other than a beautiful, quality morning? Low tide sucks. I dislike it.
Wave of the Day
There were a few pretty decent ones.
One wasn't a particularly great wave, it was just a sick ride. Steep right drop, bottom turn, cutback then immediately a wraparound, immediately another wrap around, then a last wrap around into the closeout.
The next was a good wave with potential. Sick drop, it sections, but I make it to the shoulder, wave walls up perfectly, a little turn off the top, a cutback, then I f up the second cutback. Still a pretty sick ride.
Summary:
Dillon Beach, Marin County
5'10" Southpoint
6:15-8:45AM
4-6ft with bigger sets
2+/5
Friday, June 26, 2009
What I want: more tide, less size
Summary
Size, power, lots and lots of short period windswell mixed in with some longer period. Hard to work with, but an occasional gem shines...
Waves
Good size, mediocre shape, super consistent. Certainly a lot left to desire, but given strong arms there is a little something to work with. Rather closeouty. Big wave closeouty.
Crowds
Not. A total of five others out combined during the whole of my session.
Weather
Overcast, low fog, chilly. Offshore winds. Good, but hopefully the sun comes back out. Certainly makes for a safer more leasant surf (at least when there is some actual size and current...)
Forecast
Looks rather decent. Windswell, good size, rather good conditions early morning. Variable offshores, light winds through the night. I know this is true because my drive home at 10:00 was completely still air.
Eventful Stuff
Oh my god. Lots and lots of paddling. A ridiculous amount of paddling. Take any wave and you get pushed inside until there is any break in the sets. That and the low tide makes for waves breaking beyond a lot of white water.
Wave of the Day
Pretty tough to get good ones. They're there but certainly evasive little suckers. There were some mixed lefts and rights, both with sweet drops, not a ton of turns, but a few hard cuts and slices.
Summary:
Dillon Beach, Marin County
6'1" Al Merrick MX
6:15-8:30AM
6-7ft with 8ft+sets short period
2/5
Size, power, lots and lots of short period windswell mixed in with some longer period. Hard to work with, but an occasional gem shines...
Waves
Good size, mediocre shape, super consistent. Certainly a lot left to desire, but given strong arms there is a little something to work with. Rather closeouty. Big wave closeouty.
Crowds
Not. A total of five others out combined during the whole of my session.
Weather
Overcast, low fog, chilly. Offshore winds. Good, but hopefully the sun comes back out. Certainly makes for a safer more leasant surf (at least when there is some actual size and current...)
Forecast
Looks rather decent. Windswell, good size, rather good conditions early morning. Variable offshores, light winds through the night. I know this is true because my drive home at 10:00 was completely still air.
Eventful Stuff
Oh my god. Lots and lots of paddling. A ridiculous amount of paddling. Take any wave and you get pushed inside until there is any break in the sets. That and the low tide makes for waves breaking beyond a lot of white water.
Wave of the Day
Pretty tough to get good ones. They're there but certainly evasive little suckers. There were some mixed lefts and rights, both with sweet drops, not a ton of turns, but a few hard cuts and slices.
Summary:
Dillon Beach, Marin County
6'1" Al Merrick MX
6:15-8:30AM
6-7ft with 8ft+sets short period
2/5
Wednesday, June 24, 2009
More...(but better) please
Summary
Fun was had. Waves were surfed.
Waves
Decent. Given the onshore winds, I am quite surprised that these were as workable/actually having shoulders as they were. Moderately fun for sure. Smaller than the last few days, but overall pretty relaxing. The only frustration being too far inside too often...
Crowds
There were two out when I first paddled/walked out. About a half dozen more came...off and on. Not as worthy of these "weekday crowds" as the last two days were...
Weather
Meh. Started out beautiful sunny (relatively) warm. Low clouds/fog rolled in with the onshores, which started shortly after the session began.
Forecast
Mediocre tomorrow. Good Friday, good Saturday. Beyond that it's up in the air. I'm optimistic...I think there'll be surfable mornings most every day.
Eventful Stuff
Friggen low tide.
Wave of the Day
One of the many rights. Not fast (thanks low tide...) but certainly workable in an I-turn-really-slowly sort of way. A few pseudo cutbacks and a wraparound, ending in the wave kind of lumping out.
Summary:
Dillon Beach, Marin County
5'10" Southpoint
6:15-7:45AM
3-4ft with bigger sets short period
2/5
Fun was had. Waves were surfed.
Waves
Decent. Given the onshore winds, I am quite surprised that these were as workable/actually having shoulders as they were. Moderately fun for sure. Smaller than the last few days, but overall pretty relaxing. The only frustration being too far inside too often...
Crowds
There were two out when I first paddled/walked out. About a half dozen more came...off and on. Not as worthy of these "weekday crowds" as the last two days were...
Weather
Meh. Started out beautiful sunny (relatively) warm. Low clouds/fog rolled in with the onshores, which started shortly after the session began.
Forecast
Mediocre tomorrow. Good Friday, good Saturday. Beyond that it's up in the air. I'm optimistic...I think there'll be surfable mornings most every day.
Eventful Stuff
Friggen low tide.
Wave of the Day
One of the many rights. Not fast (thanks low tide...) but certainly workable in an I-turn-really-slowly sort of way. A few pseudo cutbacks and a wraparound, ending in the wave kind of lumping out.
Summary:
Dillon Beach, Marin County
5'10" Southpoint
6:15-7:45AM
3-4ft with bigger sets short period
2/5
Tuesday, June 23, 2009
...fall weather rocks...
...even if you don't get fall groundswell...
Summary
All said and done it was a fun session. Given the amazingly sucky morning tides, and the apparent reality of windswell, the waves were pretty decent.
Waves
Windswell. Lots of windswell. Lots of low tide. Lots of windswell breaking very slowly on lots of sand really far away from where it usually breaks. Quite surprisingly decent shape given the low tide (which almost always makes DB un-fun mush.) Less consistent and a bit smaller than yesterday, but at the same time more managable and overall still fun.
Crowds
There were two others out. A few shortboarders were going out as I was heading back home. Typical non-issue.
Weather
Sunny, warm, beautiful. Nice offshores all morning making some sweet pealing shoulders full of spray.
Forecast
Down then up. The rest of the week looks smaller and poorer weather than the past two days, but then it starts looking better Friday/Saturday with more early offshores and slightly longer period swell. We will see.
Eventful Stuff
Low tide. That's always eventful.
Wave of the Day
Not quite sure. There was a decent mix of lefts and rights, quite a few multi-wrap waves. A little too slow for cutbacks to be all that powerful (but the spray was sweet...)
Summary:
Dillon Beach, Marin County
5'10" Southpoint
6:15-7:30AM
4ft with bigger sets short period
2+/5
Summary
All said and done it was a fun session. Given the amazingly sucky morning tides, and the apparent reality of windswell, the waves were pretty decent.
Waves
Windswell. Lots of windswell. Lots of low tide. Lots of windswell breaking very slowly on lots of sand really far away from where it usually breaks. Quite surprisingly decent shape given the low tide (which almost always makes DB un-fun mush.) Less consistent and a bit smaller than yesterday, but at the same time more managable and overall still fun.
Crowds
There were two others out. A few shortboarders were going out as I was heading back home. Typical non-issue.
Weather
Sunny, warm, beautiful. Nice offshores all morning making some sweet pealing shoulders full of spray.
Forecast
Down then up. The rest of the week looks smaller and poorer weather than the past two days, but then it starts looking better Friday/Saturday with more early offshores and slightly longer period swell. We will see.
Eventful Stuff
Low tide. That's always eventful.
Wave of the Day
Not quite sure. There was a decent mix of lefts and rights, quite a few multi-wrap waves. A little too slow for cutbacks to be all that powerful (but the spray was sweet...)
Summary:
Dillon Beach, Marin County
5'10" Southpoint
6:15-7:30AM
4ft with bigger sets short period
2+/5
Monday, June 22, 2009
Surf surf surf!
Summary
Finally a pre work surf...and a pretty fun one at that. Let's hope tomorrow holds more of the same.
Waves
Decent size, super consistent, surprisingly not bad shape. Lots of lefts, very few rights. Pretty open shoulders, a little soft but certainly fun. Lots of options, lots of waves to choose from.
Crowds
Two others longboarding... like usual really no one out.
Weather
Sunny, beautiful, warm. Can't ask for much more. Apparently the whole day continued with windless sun too...too bad I went to work and made money.
Forecast
Looks better than it did last week. Surfable windswell mornings...heyo! Maybe even a little South swell next week...we'll see.
Eventful Stuff
Fun windswell on a beautiful Marin morning. Things are looking up. Holy smokes it's low tide. Ridiculously low tide. ALSO---I am very excited about getting one of those surf cams...go sister!
Wave of the Day
Pretty much the only right I had today. 5ft drop, bottom turn, cutback, wraparound, lip starts breaking towards me, floater on that.
Summary:
Dillon Beach, Marin County
5'10" Southpoint
6:30-8:00AM
3-5ft short period windswell
3/5
Finally a pre work surf...and a pretty fun one at that. Let's hope tomorrow holds more of the same.
Waves
Decent size, super consistent, surprisingly not bad shape. Lots of lefts, very few rights. Pretty open shoulders, a little soft but certainly fun. Lots of options, lots of waves to choose from.
Crowds
Two others longboarding... like usual really no one out.
Weather
Sunny, beautiful, warm. Can't ask for much more. Apparently the whole day continued with windless sun too...too bad I went to work and made money.
Forecast
Looks better than it did last week. Surfable windswell mornings...heyo! Maybe even a little South swell next week...we'll see.
Eventful Stuff
Fun windswell on a beautiful Marin morning. Things are looking up. Holy smokes it's low tide. Ridiculously low tide. ALSO---I am very excited about getting one of those surf cams...go sister!
Wave of the Day
Pretty much the only right I had today. 5ft drop, bottom turn, cutback, wraparound, lip starts breaking towards me, floater on that.
Summary:
Dillon Beach, Marin County
5'10" Southpoint
6:30-8:00AM
3-5ft short period windswell
3/5
Thursday, June 18, 2009
It's my birthday.
Summary
Hey-o! Not a bad morning of surfing at all, far better than I thought it would be. Quite a pleasant birthday surprise---a beautiful morning with some fun waves.
Waves
Decent size, decent power. A little sectiony but managable. There were some hollow shoulders, some sweet turns, and some potential for airs. Certainly the next South swell that rolls around here I'll head back with my shortboard and teach the waves a lesson. That said, surfing my fish was quite fun, relaxing, and entertaining.
Crowds
Surprisingly crowded. It's a Wednesday with a South swell and there are probably 50+ people spread across the break at Bolinas. Not too many near me, but certainly a potential wave or two was yielded to others.
Weather
Beautiful, chilly offshore breeze, but quite glorious. I wish I had a camera to take pictures with---seriously perfect representation of what Marin surf has to offer. As the low clouds were burning off, golden light trinkling through some gaps, beautiful shoulder+ high wave barreling, the offshore spray shooting into the air. Mmmm delicious.
Forecast
Bleh. Yuck.
Eventful Stuff
Bolinas is quite a unique surfing spot. Not difficult per se, but familiarity would certainly make surfing there less confusing. This may sound strange as a way of describing a spot, but it truly is a special place. The lagoon entrance is super shallow water with a pretty intense current following every passing wave. It is quite literally impossible to paddle out if you take a left from places in the lineup. There is no visible current, but you can sit outside and watch people struggling to paddle back out. Knowing these details in advance would allow one to tailor their surfing session more specifically to these limitations...
Oh and on the drive back on Hwy 1 I saw a homeless guy with a bike, sleeping bag, dog, and surfboard. I laughed. I almost wish I had stopped and given the guy $20 and taken a picture...
Wave of the Day
This would be the two waves I had after I paddled in (stuck in the current from the lagoon...) Both lefts where I basically dropped in on a longboarder (but they were too far inside, stuck in the wish wash so I have no qualms... Sweet drop, straightshot down, buttom turns, cutbacks, wraparounds, a few pumps...just super fun and workable. Down South you rarely have lefts that are like that, so it's a fun change.
Summary:
Bolinas Jetty, Marin County
5'10" Southpoint
6-8:30AM
3-5ft w/ plus sets, long period South
4/5
Hey-o! Not a bad morning of surfing at all, far better than I thought it would be. Quite a pleasant birthday surprise---a beautiful morning with some fun waves.
Waves
Decent size, decent power. A little sectiony but managable. There were some hollow shoulders, some sweet turns, and some potential for airs. Certainly the next South swell that rolls around here I'll head back with my shortboard and teach the waves a lesson. That said, surfing my fish was quite fun, relaxing, and entertaining.
Crowds
Surprisingly crowded. It's a Wednesday with a South swell and there are probably 50+ people spread across the break at Bolinas. Not too many near me, but certainly a potential wave or two was yielded to others.
Weather
Beautiful, chilly offshore breeze, but quite glorious. I wish I had a camera to take pictures with---seriously perfect representation of what Marin surf has to offer. As the low clouds were burning off, golden light trinkling through some gaps, beautiful shoulder+ high wave barreling, the offshore spray shooting into the air. Mmmm delicious.
Forecast
Bleh. Yuck.
Eventful Stuff
Bolinas is quite a unique surfing spot. Not difficult per se, but familiarity would certainly make surfing there less confusing. This may sound strange as a way of describing a spot, but it truly is a special place. The lagoon entrance is super shallow water with a pretty intense current following every passing wave. It is quite literally impossible to paddle out if you take a left from places in the lineup. There is no visible current, but you can sit outside and watch people struggling to paddle back out. Knowing these details in advance would allow one to tailor their surfing session more specifically to these limitations...
Oh and on the drive back on Hwy 1 I saw a homeless guy with a bike, sleeping bag, dog, and surfboard. I laughed. I almost wish I had stopped and given the guy $20 and taken a picture...
Wave of the Day
This would be the two waves I had after I paddled in (stuck in the current from the lagoon...) Both lefts where I basically dropped in on a longboarder (but they were too far inside, stuck in the wish wash so I have no qualms... Sweet drop, straightshot down, buttom turns, cutbacks, wraparounds, a few pumps...just super fun and workable. Down South you rarely have lefts that are like that, so it's a fun change.
Summary:
Bolinas Jetty, Marin County
5'10" Southpoint
6-8:30AM
3-5ft w/ plus sets, long period South
4/5
Sunday, June 14, 2009
Yawn...
Summary
A little relaxing afternoon swim. Not so much surfing...but at least it's pretty out.
Waves
Bleh! The tides pretty much suck all the juice out of these waves---some waist high or even bigger sets, but super mushy, super slow, and pretty dang closeouty. Some more size, some higher morning tide and an early morning surf has some potential...
Crowds
One other person out.
Weather
Sunny, relatively warm, light winds. Overall quite a surprisingly beautiful day, again!
Forecast
Next three days look mediocre, but after that it's looking up. Some groundswell, good weather surfing! Yeehaw!
Eventful Stuff
Beautiful sunny day.
Wave of the Day
Meh. Nothing notable.
Summary:
Dillon Beach, Marin County
7'6" Al Merrick
12:00-12:45PM
2-3ft windswell yuck
1+/5
A little relaxing afternoon swim. Not so much surfing...but at least it's pretty out.
Waves
Bleh! The tides pretty much suck all the juice out of these waves---some waist high or even bigger sets, but super mushy, super slow, and pretty dang closeouty. Some more size, some higher morning tide and an early morning surf has some potential...
Crowds
One other person out.
Weather
Sunny, relatively warm, light winds. Overall quite a surprisingly beautiful day, again!
Forecast
Next three days look mediocre, but after that it's looking up. Some groundswell, good weather surfing! Yeehaw!
Eventful Stuff
Beautiful sunny day.
Wave of the Day
Meh. Nothing notable.
Summary:
Dillon Beach, Marin County
7'6" Al Merrick
12:00-12:45PM
2-3ft windswell yuck
1+/5
Saturday, June 13, 2009
Being home is oh so glorious
Summary
A nice little escape. Beautiful environment to surf in...Bolinas truly is a quintesentail little surf town...now we just need some good sized waves and it would be an absolute blast.
Waves
Knee to waist for the most part, a few bigger sets (which were surprisingly fun...) Decent drop, past that the wave is super slow and mushy. Easy on a big board... but those are less fun than little fishies.
Crowds
Not crowded, but certainly a handful of people out there. Almost everyone longboarding, a few people on biscut/disc/fish shaped boards. Not big enough to warrant anything smaller.
Weather
Surprisingly pleasant. Sunny, some clouds, a little breezy but quite nice.
Forecast
Looks mediocre for the next few days---but there does seem to be a decent West swell heading in late Tuesday/Wednesday this coming week. More prework surfs!
Eventful Stuff
Nothing whatsoever. The wind was slightly more from the west than I thought...so Bolinas had a pretty sturdy side breeze. That surprised me.
Wave of the Day
The chest high set waves...steep drop, almost always cutting left mid wave, then sharp bottom turn to the right, cutting along the whole of the wave. They're pretty mushy so you can't really do a lot of turning or you lose too much speed.
Summary:
Bolinas Jetty, Marin County
5'10" Southpoint
9:00-11:30AM
2-3ft w/ 4ft sets
2/5
A nice little escape. Beautiful environment to surf in...Bolinas truly is a quintesentail little surf town...now we just need some good sized waves and it would be an absolute blast.
Waves
Knee to waist for the most part, a few bigger sets (which were surprisingly fun...) Decent drop, past that the wave is super slow and mushy. Easy on a big board... but those are less fun than little fishies.
Crowds
Not crowded, but certainly a handful of people out there. Almost everyone longboarding, a few people on biscut/disc/fish shaped boards. Not big enough to warrant anything smaller.
Weather
Surprisingly pleasant. Sunny, some clouds, a little breezy but quite nice.
Forecast
Looks mediocre for the next few days---but there does seem to be a decent West swell heading in late Tuesday/Wednesday this coming week. More prework surfs!
Eventful Stuff
Nothing whatsoever. The wind was slightly more from the west than I thought...so Bolinas had a pretty sturdy side breeze. That surprised me.
Wave of the Day
The chest high set waves...steep drop, almost always cutting left mid wave, then sharp bottom turn to the right, cutting along the whole of the wave. They're pretty mushy so you can't really do a lot of turning or you lose too much speed.
Summary:
Bolinas Jetty, Marin County
5'10" Southpoint
9:00-11:30AM
2-3ft w/ 4ft sets
2/5
Friday, June 12, 2009
Lots of very inconsistent swell...
Summary
Slow going, but fun. Decent swell size but super inconsistent.
Waves
Yeehaw! The low tide kind of sucked the energy out of the water, the only moderately surfable anything were the sets, and the negative tide kind of killed the shape in most spots. Once it min'd it continuted to improve, the last hour of the session super super super fun.
Crowds
Wow. There were all of two others out the whole of my session. I bet Surfrider was crowded though...
Weather
June gloom. Overcast, chilly. But overall pleasant. Thank you Patagonia wetsuit.
Forecast
SoCal is finally getting some swell, looks like there'll be waves for the next week. Just in time for me to leave. There'll be some swell up North too for sure. Looks like Bolinas tomorrow for some South though...
Eventful Stuff
Arriving from PV to SFO to LAX, sleeping in Hermosa, waking up at 5, surfing Latigo, going home and packing up, driving north, picking up dad at the airport, seeing a movie, then driving back to the beach, watching tv and typing this. Other than that nothing eventful. Super low tide, which kind of sucks the shape out of Latigo, actually making it a fast wave (but not hollow...also because of the mediocrity of the swell...)
Wave of the Day
There were quite a few towards the end of the session that would qualify. Not as zippy as usual as the waves here, but when size at Latigo bumps shape gets sacrificed. Steep drop, three cutbacks and a wraparound, concluded by a nice little air ramp, but I take off too early and end up launching but landing on my arm (on the board.) Not particularly comfortable.
Summary:
Latigo Point, Malibu
5'10" Southpoint
7:00-9:00AM
3-4ft w/ 5ft+sets
3/5
Slow going, but fun. Decent swell size but super inconsistent.
Waves
Yeehaw! The low tide kind of sucked the energy out of the water, the only moderately surfable anything were the sets, and the negative tide kind of killed the shape in most spots. Once it min'd it continuted to improve, the last hour of the session super super super fun.
Crowds
Wow. There were all of two others out the whole of my session. I bet Surfrider was crowded though...
Weather
June gloom. Overcast, chilly. But overall pleasant. Thank you Patagonia wetsuit.
Forecast
SoCal is finally getting some swell, looks like there'll be waves for the next week. Just in time for me to leave. There'll be some swell up North too for sure. Looks like Bolinas tomorrow for some South though...
Eventful Stuff
Arriving from PV to SFO to LAX, sleeping in Hermosa, waking up at 5, surfing Latigo, going home and packing up, driving north, picking up dad at the airport, seeing a movie, then driving back to the beach, watching tv and typing this. Other than that nothing eventful. Super low tide, which kind of sucks the shape out of Latigo, actually making it a fast wave (but not hollow...also because of the mediocrity of the swell...)
Wave of the Day
There were quite a few towards the end of the session that would qualify. Not as zippy as usual as the waves here, but when size at Latigo bumps shape gets sacrificed. Steep drop, three cutbacks and a wraparound, concluded by a nice little air ramp, but I take off too early and end up launching but landing on my arm (on the board.) Not particularly comfortable.
Summary:
Latigo Point, Malibu
5'10" Southpoint
7:00-9:00AM
3-4ft w/ 5ft+sets
3/5
Tuesday, June 9, 2009
What an adventure!
Summary
This little trip was about three hours each way. Three hours of highway, dirt road, city streets, tractor trailing, alligator avoiding. Quite a blast, even if the surf wasn't all that spectacular. The water here is so darn warm that it doesn't matter if there's not really that much going on in terms of waves.
Waves
They were OK. It's a beach break with relatively short period waves (some kind of tropical storm or something nearby...) so it was peaky but pretty fast and closeouty. Not the most conducive to a relaxing surf. That said, there were some decent bottom turns and cutbacks, some sweet (very warm) closeouts.
Crowds
Laugh. There were three other people surfing up and down the beach.
Weather
Beautiful. Clear, crisp, 90 deg outside, hot sand, 80 degree + water. I don't even know how to judge water when it's that warm.
Forecast
Unimportant. Only surfing today. that said, there is some South filling in this week so Malibu should be pretty fun when I get back.
Eventful Stuff
I have some sweet pictures of the ancient retro boards my Dad and I used. Clarke foam, crazy retro tail, psychedelic swirls...they were great. A lot of fun.
Wave of the Day
I had quite a few fun rights. This fish was quite a bit less maneuverable than my Southpoint, so backside action was pretty tough. The rights were pretty workable, one or two turns before it would wall up and closeout. Nothing spectacular, but always fun.
Summary:
San Blas, Mexico
6'3" Custom Fish
10:30AM-12:00PM
3-4ft, occasionally bigger
2/5
This little trip was about three hours each way. Three hours of highway, dirt road, city streets, tractor trailing, alligator avoiding. Quite a blast, even if the surf wasn't all that spectacular. The water here is so darn warm that it doesn't matter if there's not really that much going on in terms of waves.
Waves
They were OK. It's a beach break with relatively short period waves (some kind of tropical storm or something nearby...) so it was peaky but pretty fast and closeouty. Not the most conducive to a relaxing surf. That said, there were some decent bottom turns and cutbacks, some sweet (very warm) closeouts.
Crowds
Laugh. There were three other people surfing up and down the beach.
Weather
Beautiful. Clear, crisp, 90 deg outside, hot sand, 80 degree + water. I don't even know how to judge water when it's that warm.
Forecast
Unimportant. Only surfing today. that said, there is some South filling in this week so Malibu should be pretty fun when I get back.
Eventful Stuff
I have some sweet pictures of the ancient retro boards my Dad and I used. Clarke foam, crazy retro tail, psychedelic swirls...they were great. A lot of fun.
Wave of the Day
I had quite a few fun rights. This fish was quite a bit less maneuverable than my Southpoint, so backside action was pretty tough. The rights were pretty workable, one or two turns before it would wall up and closeout. Nothing spectacular, but always fun.
Summary:
San Blas, Mexico
6'3" Custom Fish
10:30AM-12:00PM
3-4ft, occasionally bigger
2/5
Saturday, June 6, 2009
to do later
Summary
Ready to go to the warm waters of Mexico...gametime!
Waves
Eh...ok. Pretty mediocre. Generally poor shape and rather difficult to work with.
Crowds
El Porto---there were others out. Mostly on bigger boards.
Weather
Overcast, chilly. Pretty warbly texture---guess there was some onshore last night.
Forecast
Mexico...looks so so.
Eventful Stuff
Going to be in Mexico today. Can't argue with that.
Wave of the Day
A nice little right. Steep drop, fast shoulder, a few sharp turns, ended on a pseudo-air mini floater. Pretty much the best wave I saw anyone get all morning (except for the 80 pound Asian man doing airs on 2ft mush...)
Summary:
El Porto, Los Angeles
5'10" Southpoint
6:30-7:30AM
2-3ft w/ occasional 4ft sets
2/5
Dan
Ready to go to the warm waters of Mexico...gametime!
Waves
Eh...ok. Pretty mediocre. Generally poor shape and rather difficult to work with.
Crowds
El Porto---there were others out. Mostly on bigger boards.
Weather
Overcast, chilly. Pretty warbly texture---guess there was some onshore last night.
Forecast
Mexico...looks so so.
Eventful Stuff
Going to be in Mexico today. Can't argue with that.
Wave of the Day
A nice little right. Steep drop, fast shoulder, a few sharp turns, ended on a pseudo-air mini floater. Pretty much the best wave I saw anyone get all morning (except for the 80 pound Asian man doing airs on 2ft mush...)
Summary:
El Porto, Los Angeles
5'10" Southpoint
6:30-7:30AM
2-3ft w/ occasional 4ft sets
2/5
Dan
Friday, June 5, 2009
Latigo effing rocks
Summary
Wow, there are some real waves and real rides today, no doubt. Not a bad way to start a vacation I'd say.
Waves
Morning was good shape, long pealing 3-5ft waves at Latigo. Most were in the chest high range, but there were certainly some monster sets every once in awhile (catching almost everyone completely off guard.) Uncrowded perfection, muscle aching waves. 30sec+ rides, enough power for oodles of turns.
Manhattan Pier was fun, but pretty overwhelming. Good size, but truly poor shape (compounded by the high/rising tide.) There were occasional rides, but pretty much one or two turns max, right into a closeout. No real opportunity for much more as the shape was pretty lumpy, wally, and closeouty. Dang swell...
Crowds
Not, either place. Latigo had four paddleboarders and four longboarders out when I first went. Manhattan had a half dozen on the North side of the pier, two on the South side.
Weather
Sunny, warm both places. Spring suit time for sure in LA county. I used my Patagonia in Malibu and I regretted it---it is far too warm given the weather (almost summer...) now.
Forecast
Mexico! Looks decent for one (maybe two) days of surf. Probably one though.
Eventful Stuff
I met some kid from USC who lives in Malibu. My surfing lately has been uneventful, which is spectacular in every way. Went surfing with Dan in the afternoon at Manhattan---give it two weeks and he'll be ripping!
Wave of the Day
A Latigo wave, like usual. There were probably half a dozen "make the day worth it" rides. All 30+sec, with a handful of turns and no one dropping in on me. This was a chest high wave I make from far outside, up and down the wave the whole time, probably ten turns, two wraps, cutbacks, everything, finally ending into a little closeout section after a wraparound, thirty feet from shore. I felt like a baller. Then as soon as I paddle back out some guy was like, "Hard to catch waves on that little thing isn't it?" If only he knew...
Summary:
Latigo Point, Malibu
5'10" Southpoint
7:00-9:30AM
3-4ft w/ 5ft+sets
4/5
Manhattan Pier, Los Angeles
5'10" Southpoint
6:00-7:15PM
3-5ft w/ 6ft+sets
1+/5
Dan
Wow, there are some real waves and real rides today, no doubt. Not a bad way to start a vacation I'd say.
Waves
Morning was good shape, long pealing 3-5ft waves at Latigo. Most were in the chest high range, but there were certainly some monster sets every once in awhile (catching almost everyone completely off guard.) Uncrowded perfection, muscle aching waves. 30sec+ rides, enough power for oodles of turns.
Manhattan Pier was fun, but pretty overwhelming. Good size, but truly poor shape (compounded by the high/rising tide.) There were occasional rides, but pretty much one or two turns max, right into a closeout. No real opportunity for much more as the shape was pretty lumpy, wally, and closeouty. Dang swell...
Crowds
Not, either place. Latigo had four paddleboarders and four longboarders out when I first went. Manhattan had a half dozen on the North side of the pier, two on the South side.
Weather
Sunny, warm both places. Spring suit time for sure in LA county. I used my Patagonia in Malibu and I regretted it---it is far too warm given the weather (almost summer...) now.
Forecast
Mexico! Looks decent for one (maybe two) days of surf. Probably one though.
Eventful Stuff
I met some kid from USC who lives in Malibu. My surfing lately has been uneventful, which is spectacular in every way. Went surfing with Dan in the afternoon at Manhattan---give it two weeks and he'll be ripping!
Wave of the Day
A Latigo wave, like usual. There were probably half a dozen "make the day worth it" rides. All 30+sec, with a handful of turns and no one dropping in on me. This was a chest high wave I make from far outside, up and down the wave the whole time, probably ten turns, two wraps, cutbacks, everything, finally ending into a little closeout section after a wraparound, thirty feet from shore. I felt like a baller. Then as soon as I paddle back out some guy was like, "Hard to catch waves on that little thing isn't it?" If only he knew...
Summary:
Latigo Point, Malibu
5'10" Southpoint
7:00-9:30AM
3-4ft w/ 5ft+sets
4/5
Manhattan Pier, Los Angeles
5'10" Southpoint
6:00-7:15PM
3-5ft w/ 6ft+sets
1+/5
Dan
Thursday, June 4, 2009
Mediocre, but moderately fun.
Summary
There's some swell. It's not perfect or all that great, but it was decent.
Waves
Decent size but inconsistent. Long lulls between sets. Surfrider had decent shape initially, but as the tide continued to rise the shape became pretty closeouty. Certainly some rippable shoulders, but super fast and pretty tough to pull in for whatever reason. Latigo had good shape initially but faced the same problem---the rising tide (combined with the wind) mushed it up and made it super lumpy/closeouty.
Crowds
Surfrider had quite a few out. I don't know how many at first but there were at least 30 at first. Latigo had probably 5 out when we first went, 8 max.
Weather
Morning was overcast, the sun peeking through at times. Certainly cold given my wearing of a spring suit. Light offshores. The afternoon was bright sunny, but pretty stiff NW wind. Cross shore at Latigo, but strong enough to make it tough.
Forecast
Decent for tomorrow, hopefully better than today. Saturday morning looks good too. Mexico looks good for a day or two as well.
Eventful Stuff
Wave of the Day
Super long
Summary:
Surfrider, Malibu
6'1" Al Merrick MX
7:00-9:15AM
3-4ft w/ 4-5ft sets
2/5
Latigo Point, Malibu
5'10" Southpoint
5:15-6:45PM
2-3ft w/ 4ft+ sets
2/5
Basil
There's some swell. It's not perfect or all that great, but it was decent.
Waves
Decent size but inconsistent. Long lulls between sets. Surfrider had decent shape initially, but as the tide continued to rise the shape became pretty closeouty. Certainly some rippable shoulders, but super fast and pretty tough to pull in for whatever reason. Latigo had good shape initially but faced the same problem---the rising tide (combined with the wind) mushed it up and made it super lumpy/closeouty.
Crowds
Surfrider had quite a few out. I don't know how many at first but there were at least 30 at first. Latigo had probably 5 out when we first went, 8 max.
Weather
Morning was overcast, the sun peeking through at times. Certainly cold given my wearing of a spring suit. Light offshores. The afternoon was bright sunny, but pretty stiff NW wind. Cross shore at Latigo, but strong enough to make it tough.
Forecast
Decent for tomorrow, hopefully better than today. Saturday morning looks good too. Mexico looks good for a day or two as well.
Eventful Stuff
Wave of the Day
Super long
Summary:
Surfrider, Malibu
6'1" Al Merrick MX
7:00-9:15AM
3-4ft w/ 4-5ft sets
2/5
Latigo Point, Malibu
5'10" Southpoint
5:15-6:45PM
2-3ft w/ 4ft+ sets
2/5
Basil
Wednesday, June 3, 2009
Malibu, sometimes I love you!
Summary
Especially when I have the chance to surf before and after work. While not "real" waves, they are far more "real" than most anything in the last month.
Waves
The morning started out strong, the first twenty minutes full of waves, then slow for the next twenty, then it picked back up for the rest of the session. Surfrider had surprisingly good shape. Lots of good rights, plenty of time for turns and wrap arounds. A little soft but not too bad.
The afternoon started out slow, the first twenty minutes completely waveless. After that there was a monster 5ft set out of nowhere. Far too far inside for either myself or the other surfer to catch that one. Overall surprisingly good shape and rippable waves.
Crowds
Not. Surfrider had 2 out at 2nd, with actual waves breaking. Latigo had one out, and one just getting out of the water.
Weather
Overcast in the morning, certainly chilly. Variable offshores.
Sunny in the afternoon, cross/onshores.
Forecast
Looks good.
Eventful Stuff
Other than the waves being tiers better than I thought they'd be? Not much. 2.6ft 17sec period = 4ft waves for tomorrow. G'damn amazing. Gametime.
Wave of the Day
One at each of the spots.
Surfrider's was one of the last ones I had. Beautiful 4ft drop, bottom turn, cutback, waddle down the face, turn, cutback, cutback, mini 1/2 sec barrel closeout. Pretty dang fun.
Latigo was a little bigger than 4ft, drop with three or four turns, a wrap around, a little closeout whack to the face. Oh my god those waves are absolutely amazing. So much fun even in the breezy afternoon.
Summary:
Surfrider, Malibu
5'10" Southpoint
7:00-8:15AM
2-3ft w/ 4ft+sets
3/5
Latigo Point, Malibu
5'10" Southpoint
5:15-6:30PM
2-3ft w/ 4ft sets (and a few bomb)
3/5
Especially when I have the chance to surf before and after work. While not "real" waves, they are far more "real" than most anything in the last month.
Waves
The morning started out strong, the first twenty minutes full of waves, then slow for the next twenty, then it picked back up for the rest of the session. Surfrider had surprisingly good shape. Lots of good rights, plenty of time for turns and wrap arounds. A little soft but not too bad.
The afternoon started out slow, the first twenty minutes completely waveless. After that there was a monster 5ft set out of nowhere. Far too far inside for either myself or the other surfer to catch that one. Overall surprisingly good shape and rippable waves.
Crowds
Not. Surfrider had 2 out at 2nd, with actual waves breaking. Latigo had one out, and one just getting out of the water.
Weather
Overcast in the morning, certainly chilly. Variable offshores.
Sunny in the afternoon, cross/onshores.
Forecast
Looks good.
Eventful Stuff
Other than the waves being tiers better than I thought they'd be? Not much. 2.6ft 17sec period = 4ft waves for tomorrow. G'damn amazing. Gametime.
Wave of the Day
One at each of the spots.
Surfrider's was one of the last ones I had. Beautiful 4ft drop, bottom turn, cutback, waddle down the face, turn, cutback, cutback, mini 1/2 sec barrel closeout. Pretty dang fun.
Latigo was a little bigger than 4ft, drop with three or four turns, a wrap around, a little closeout whack to the face. Oh my god those waves are absolutely amazing. So much fun even in the breezy afternoon.
Summary:
Surfrider, Malibu
5'10" Southpoint
7:00-8:15AM
2-3ft w/ 4ft+sets
3/5
Latigo Point, Malibu
5'10" Southpoint
5:15-6:30PM
2-3ft w/ 4ft sets (and a few bomb)
3/5
Tuesday, June 2, 2009
Malibu, bring forth greatness!
Summary
Not bad, but certainly lacking. Refreshing in every way. There were fun waves at both spots. Expectations are certainly rising for the future.
Waves
Small, weak, poor shape. Biggest set was waist high. Enough time for one turn, maybe. Generally short rides given the amazingly low low tide.
Crowds
Not, but yes. Contradictory but not. For any surf break it would be considered, but for Surfrider not at all.
Weather
Slightly overcast but sunny in the morning. The ocean is cold....56 or 57...for a spring suit.
Forecast
Looks good! Southern California is prepping for some fun surf. It is taunting me before I leave for a month. I know this is true.
Eventful Stuff
It was cold.
Wave of the Day
There were a few notable waves in both sessions. Zuma's was probably one of the rights, steep drops, one or two turns, even a little closeout barrel. Surfrider's was also a right, decently long ride, a few slowish turns (thank you wind...)
Summary:
Zuma, Malibu
5'10" Southpoint
8:00-9:00AM
2-3ft w/ 4ft sets
2/5
Surfrider, Malibu
5'10" Southpoint
5:15-6:15PM
2ft w/ 3ft+sets
1+/5
Not bad, but certainly lacking. Refreshing in every way. There were fun waves at both spots. Expectations are certainly rising for the future.
Waves
Small, weak, poor shape. Biggest set was waist high. Enough time for one turn, maybe. Generally short rides given the amazingly low low tide.
Crowds
Not, but yes. Contradictory but not. For any surf break it would be considered, but for Surfrider not at all.
Weather
Slightly overcast but sunny in the morning. The ocean is cold....56 or 57...for a spring suit.
Forecast
Looks good! Southern California is prepping for some fun surf. It is taunting me before I leave for a month. I know this is true.
Eventful Stuff
It was cold.
Wave of the Day
There were a few notable waves in both sessions. Zuma's was probably one of the rights, steep drops, one or two turns, even a little closeout barrel. Surfrider's was also a right, decently long ride, a few slowish turns (thank you wind...)
Summary:
Zuma, Malibu
5'10" Southpoint
8:00-9:00AM
2-3ft w/ 4ft sets
2/5
Surfrider, Malibu
5'10" Southpoint
5:15-6:15PM
2ft w/ 3ft+sets
1+/5
Monday, June 1, 2009
A nice little refresher...
Summary
Quite honestly a surprisingly decent morning of surf. Waves overall a little soft but certainly a little swell in the water and quite a lot of fun to be had. SPRING SUIT!
Waves
Decent in every respect. Enough swell for decent rides, some surprisingly workable and occasionally long. Soft, but I rode the fish so that's no problem. Slow enough takeoffs that finding the shoulder was not a problem.
Crowds
Not. There were a few out but certainly no issue for waves.
Weather
Overcast and certainly not warm. Light winds through the morning. The water was far colder than last week. Windswell boo. Spring suit yay.
Forecast
Looks ok/pretty good. Better than the last month anyway. Mexico looks like there's some potential too. Yea!
Eventful Stuff
Nothing.
Wave of the Day
There were some surprisingly fun rides. Far better than I was expecting. Rights and lefts, mixed, with bottom turns and slowish cutbacks, wraparounds, a little bit of everything.
Summary:
County Line
5'10" Southpoint
7:15-9:15
2-3ft w/ 4ft sets
2+/5
Quite honestly a surprisingly decent morning of surf. Waves overall a little soft but certainly a little swell in the water and quite a lot of fun to be had. SPRING SUIT!
Waves
Decent in every respect. Enough swell for decent rides, some surprisingly workable and occasionally long. Soft, but I rode the fish so that's no problem. Slow enough takeoffs that finding the shoulder was not a problem.
Crowds
Not. There were a few out but certainly no issue for waves.
Weather
Overcast and certainly not warm. Light winds through the morning. The water was far colder than last week. Windswell boo. Spring suit yay.
Forecast
Looks ok/pretty good. Better than the last month anyway. Mexico looks like there's some potential too. Yea!
Eventful Stuff
Nothing.
Wave of the Day
There were some surprisingly fun rides. Far better than I was expecting. Rights and lefts, mixed, with bottom turns and slowish cutbacks, wraparounds, a little bit of everything.
Summary:
County Line
5'10" Southpoint
7:15-9:15
2-3ft w/ 4ft sets
2+/5
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