Summary
Size, power, lots and lots of short period windswell mixed in with some longer period. Hard to work with, but an occasional gem shines...
Waves
Good size, mediocre shape, super consistent. Certainly a lot left to desire, but given strong arms there is a little something to work with. Rather closeouty. Big wave closeouty.
Crowds
Not. A total of five others out combined during the whole of my session.
Weather
Overcast, low fog, chilly. Offshore winds. Good, but hopefully the sun comes back out. Certainly makes for a safer more leasant surf (at least when there is some actual size and current...)
Forecast
Looks rather decent. Windswell, good size, rather good conditions early morning. Variable offshores, light winds through the night. I know this is true because my drive home at 10:00 was completely still air.
Eventful Stuff
Oh my god. Lots and lots of paddling. A ridiculous amount of paddling. Take any wave and you get pushed inside until there is any break in the sets. That and the low tide makes for waves breaking beyond a lot of white water.
Wave of the Day
Pretty tough to get good ones. They're there but certainly evasive little suckers. There were some mixed lefts and rights, both with sweet drops, not a ton of turns, but a few hard cuts and slices.
Summary:
Dillon Beach, Marin County
6'1" Al Merrick MX
6:15-8:30AM
6-7ft with 8ft+sets short period
2/5
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