Thursday, June 18, 2009

It's my birthday.

Summary
Hey-o! Not a bad morning of surfing at all, far better than I thought it would be. Quite a pleasant birthday surprise---a beautiful morning with some fun waves.
Waves
Decent size, decent power. A little sectiony but managable. There were some hollow shoulders, some sweet turns, and some potential for airs. Certainly the next South swell that rolls around here I'll head back with my shortboard and teach the waves a lesson. That said, surfing my fish was quite fun, relaxing, and entertaining.
Crowds
Surprisingly crowded. It's a Wednesday with a South swell and there are probably 50+ people spread across the break at Bolinas. Not too many near me, but certainly a potential wave or two was yielded to others.
Weather
Beautiful, chilly offshore breeze, but quite glorious. I wish I had a camera to take pictures with---seriously perfect representation of what Marin surf has to offer. As the low clouds were burning off, golden light trinkling through some gaps, beautiful shoulder+ high wave barreling, the offshore spray shooting into the air. Mmmm delicious.
Forecast
Bleh. Yuck.
Eventful Stuff
Bolinas is quite a unique surfing spot. Not difficult per se, but familiarity would certainly make surfing there less confusing. This may sound strange as a way of describing a spot, but it truly is a special place. The lagoon entrance is super shallow water with a pretty intense current following every passing wave. It is quite literally impossible to paddle out if you take a left from places in the lineup. There is no visible current, but you can sit outside and watch people struggling to paddle back out. Knowing these details in advance would allow one to tailor their surfing session more specifically to these limitations...
Oh and on the drive back on Hwy 1 I saw a homeless guy with a bike, sleeping bag, dog, and surfboard. I laughed. I almost wish I had stopped and given the guy $20 and taken a picture...
Wave of the Day
This would be the two waves I had after I paddled in (stuck in the current from the lagoon...) Both lefts where I basically dropped in on a longboarder (but they were too far inside, stuck in the wish wash so I have no qualms... Sweet drop, straightshot down, buttom turns, cutbacks, wraparounds, a few pumps...just super fun and workable. Down South you rarely have lefts that are like that, so it's a fun change.

Summary:
Bolinas Jetty, Marin County
5'10" Southpoint
6-8:30AM
3-5ft w/ plus sets, long period South
4/5

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