Tuesday, June 30, 2009

Pure feral vengance

Summary
Big board, big fun. Fun to be had. Fun was had. Overall a worthy morning (and not so worthy afternoon paddle...) of beautiful offshores and surprisingly quality shape waves.
Waves
Decent size, good texture, beautiful shoulders. Can't argue with windswell when it's in clean long lines, clear shoulders, and with very few closeouts. Not hollow, but certainly some potential hiding within these waves. Since I was on the big board, not a ton of sharp turns, but as sharp of turns as you can get out of a 7'6"...
Crowds
There were seven or eight others out, off and on for the whole session. Even a few out before me!
Weather
Sunny, pretty stiff SE offshore breeze cleaning up the faces. Spectacular morning.
Forecast
Tomorrow looks like it's it...then the windswell dies for a week. A little South groundswell, so I might have to hit up Bolinas early later on this weekend. We'll see...
Eventful Stuff
Hilarious---a Seagull somehow snags a fish. Goes in the air---fish wiggling---and another seagull smacks it, knocks the fish out of the first's mouth, and the fish gets away. Goes to show---crime is lose lose.
Wave of the Day
Surprisingly fun left. Booked it into a sweet drop, doodling around on the wave and the section ahead jacks up, starts a little lip towards me. I cut up the face and turn around, shooting into the now right wave. Section pops up ahead of me going right, so I slap the lip and turn around going left again until the wave slaps me on the face. It was surprisingly exhilarating because for being a big board I made just about as sharp of turns as you can make. Big blue never diasppoints.


Summary:
Dillon Beach, Marin County
7'6" Al Merrick M13
6:15-8:15AM
4-5ft with 6ft sets
3/5

Dillon Beach, Marin County
5'10" Southpoint Fish
5:00-6:15PM
3-5ft choppy windswell
1/5

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