Summary
Beautiful early, though the winds quickly turned a little too cross-shore and blew it out. Bummer, but there were some fun waves early!
Waves
Pretty decent size, pretty decent paddle out. Before the wind picked up it was pretty offshore, making for some fast, pretty hollow shoulders. Sweet waves, fun shoulders. Overall quite entertaining.
Crowds
About a dozen others out. Typical completely uncrowded DB. Hard life.
Weather
Crisp, chilly morning. As the light clouds were burning off there was a pretty sweet offshore breeze.
Forecast
NA!
Eventful Stuff
Big drive back South today. Shouldn't be too bad, except there's going to be horrible horrible traffic. Oh well. My choice to go surfing. And a wise choice it was! Super fun, too bad the wind got on it early.
Wave of the Day
One sweet left barrel, and quite a few sweet rights. Dang awesome all things said and done.
Summary:
Dillon Beach, Marin
5'10" Quad Beauty
7:00-9:00
4-6ft, with 9ft+ bomb cleanup sets
3/5
Sunday, November 29, 2009
Saturday, November 28, 2009
Just what I was hoping for!
Summary
Take yesterday's good winds, make them better, add more (less consistent, thankfully) swell, greatly increase the tide, and add a little sun. What you have is prime surfing conditions, and a very likely Alex-will-hurt-himself-somehow morning. They were, and I did.
Waves
Sweet Jesus. I'll summarize it like this: before I caught any of today's amazing waves, I saw one unridden 5ft+ frothy, delicious, huge slot, left barrel, line up perfectly with the offshore winds and inspire everyone out there with a "WTF that was amazing!" moment. There weren't a whole lot of those, but there were plenty of quick corners and fast barrels. Not huge, but a heck of a lot more workable than yesterday.
Crowds
The crowds are evidence to this morning's amazing potential. Probably at least a hundred and fifty or two hundred guys out. Most crowded I've seen any spot up here in a long time. That said, NO other spot in Sonoma would be working, and Bolinas or Drakes would be the only places in Marin. The crowds are justified.
Weather
Beautiful crisp sunny fall morning. 15-25MPH + offshore winds, doing a ridiculous job of hollowing up the surf. Almost everyone was wearing a hood, with good reason.
Forecast
Tomorrow looks like a Dillon Beach day. Probably the same size as today (here) maybe a few feet bigger. Should be straight offshore in the morning, then more Northerly later. I have hope. SoCal is going to suck this week. F it.
Eventful Stuff
I sliced my middle finger pretty good on my left hand. It was pouring blood til I got it wrapped in a very bloody Kleenex. Gives me a little something to remember the day by though.
My dad came to the beach and was watching everyone surf. Pretty fun morning to watch I'd argue. He certainly thought so. As I came out of the water and started walking back I looked at the ocean as there was a set coming in, probably six or seven waves, each bigger than the last. The last wave this guy gets and absolutely destroys it, way more than I did any wave today. Like three snaps off the top, blow tail, wraps, and it made me think about going back out...I was impressed. Then I realized I couldn't feel my feet, my nose was pouring out fluid, and my left hand dripping blood.
Unfortunately the morn schooled me for no good reason.
Wave of the Day
One right, chest plus, one of the actually decent shoulders I managed to find. Fun drop, bottom turn, nice (sick spray) cutback, one little cut off the top, see the wave wall up, and a nice little snap to finish it off. Fun, decent little wave.
Summary:
Doran Beach, Sonoma
5'10" Quad Beauty
7:00-8:45
4-5ft, bigger sets (with gnar gnar fatty offshore barrels)
3+/5
Take yesterday's good winds, make them better, add more (less consistent, thankfully) swell, greatly increase the tide, and add a little sun. What you have is prime surfing conditions, and a very likely Alex-will-hurt-himself-somehow morning. They were, and I did.
Waves
Sweet Jesus. I'll summarize it like this: before I caught any of today's amazing waves, I saw one unridden 5ft+ frothy, delicious, huge slot, left barrel, line up perfectly with the offshore winds and inspire everyone out there with a "WTF that was amazing!" moment. There weren't a whole lot of those, but there were plenty of quick corners and fast barrels. Not huge, but a heck of a lot more workable than yesterday.
Crowds
The crowds are evidence to this morning's amazing potential. Probably at least a hundred and fifty or two hundred guys out. Most crowded I've seen any spot up here in a long time. That said, NO other spot in Sonoma would be working, and Bolinas or Drakes would be the only places in Marin. The crowds are justified.
Weather
Beautiful crisp sunny fall morning. 15-25MPH + offshore winds, doing a ridiculous job of hollowing up the surf. Almost everyone was wearing a hood, with good reason.
Forecast
Tomorrow looks like a Dillon Beach day. Probably the same size as today (here) maybe a few feet bigger. Should be straight offshore in the morning, then more Northerly later. I have hope. SoCal is going to suck this week. F it.
Eventful Stuff
I sliced my middle finger pretty good on my left hand. It was pouring blood til I got it wrapped in a very bloody Kleenex. Gives me a little something to remember the day by though.
My dad came to the beach and was watching everyone surf. Pretty fun morning to watch I'd argue. He certainly thought so. As I came out of the water and started walking back I looked at the ocean as there was a set coming in, probably six or seven waves, each bigger than the last. The last wave this guy gets and absolutely destroys it, way more than I did any wave today. Like three snaps off the top, blow tail, wraps, and it made me think about going back out...I was impressed. Then I realized I couldn't feel my feet, my nose was pouring out fluid, and my left hand dripping blood.
Unfortunately the morn schooled me for no good reason.
Wave of the Day
One right, chest plus, one of the actually decent shoulders I managed to find. Fun drop, bottom turn, nice (sick spray) cutback, one little cut off the top, see the wave wall up, and a nice little snap to finish it off. Fun, decent little wave.
Summary:
Doran Beach, Sonoma
5'10" Quad Beauty
7:00-8:45
4-5ft, bigger sets (with gnar gnar fatty offshore barrels)
3+/5
Friday, November 27, 2009
A little surprise...
Summary
It is never bad when you discover something to be unexpectedly good. Put simply, Doran blew my socks of with the POTENTIAL it has for good surf. Tide was falling and arguably quite a bit too low, else this late morn surf would have been amazing. That said, I had fun. I had a few little corners, and I see the potential an early surf tomorrow holds...
Waves
Quite closeouty. It is a beachbreak on big groundswell at lowish tide. That said, the first thirty minutes of the session saw some surprisingly heavy 5ft walls. They pretty much all trounced me, but there was POTENTIAL. I some shoulders here and there, but for the most part the waves didn't give me a whole lot to work with.
Crowds
There were about two dozen out when I first braved out. That slowly fell and by the time I left there were only half a dozen. Probably good reason for the "crowd" leaving because conditions (surfing wise, not wind wise) grew progressively worse.
Weather
...S facing beach, NW/NNW winds. 3/4 offshore. Clean as sin. Lefts look a lot better than rights do (also probably how the waves wrap in...) Overcast and pretty darn chilly. I need me a hoodie for this winter...
Forecast
If the swell today was working, tomorrow is better, and Sunday shows promise as well. I'm hopeful. I'll be getting up early to get on it before/at high tide.
Eventful Stuff
Turkey day...was so big. I put my Wetsuit on and drove down to the beach. I stood there for about twenty minutes looking at the 1/2 mi paddle I would have to endure. A few of my neighbors that surf came up and were like, "Probably not a good idea to go out..." I decided I didn't want to kill myself, so I went back home and stared at the surf for the next hour. Of at least half a dozen guys, I saw ONE get out. Watching his little rubber suited body swing wildly up and down on the massive lines visible half a mile out to see, I waited impatiently for him to take a wave. And he did, a 3x overhead plus bomb, the first of the set. Shooting down the face this guy got a ridiculously huge barrel and then got spit out---hard. The next seven waves in the set came and trounced him, pounding him so hard I was cringing just watching from a mile away. No one else made it past the breakers that day.
Wave of the Day
Nothing spectacular, but there were a handful of left (closeout) barrels. For the most part the best workable wave I had was a little right shoulder, sharp bottom turn and two nice slices. Take what you can get =)
Summary:
Doran Beach, Sonoma
5'10" Quad Beauty
10:45-12:00
3-4ft, 5ft+ sets
2/5
It is never bad when you discover something to be unexpectedly good. Put simply, Doran blew my socks of with the POTENTIAL it has for good surf. Tide was falling and arguably quite a bit too low, else this late morn surf would have been amazing. That said, I had fun. I had a few little corners, and I see the potential an early surf tomorrow holds...
Waves
Quite closeouty. It is a beachbreak on big groundswell at lowish tide. That said, the first thirty minutes of the session saw some surprisingly heavy 5ft walls. They pretty much all trounced me, but there was POTENTIAL. I some shoulders here and there, but for the most part the waves didn't give me a whole lot to work with.
Crowds
There were about two dozen out when I first braved out. That slowly fell and by the time I left there were only half a dozen. Probably good reason for the "crowd" leaving because conditions (surfing wise, not wind wise) grew progressively worse.
Weather
...S facing beach, NW/NNW winds. 3/4 offshore. Clean as sin. Lefts look a lot better than rights do (also probably how the waves wrap in...) Overcast and pretty darn chilly. I need me a hoodie for this winter...
Forecast
If the swell today was working, tomorrow is better, and Sunday shows promise as well. I'm hopeful. I'll be getting up early to get on it before/at high tide.
Eventful Stuff
Turkey day...was so big. I put my Wetsuit on and drove down to the beach. I stood there for about twenty minutes looking at the 1/2 mi paddle I would have to endure. A few of my neighbors that surf came up and were like, "Probably not a good idea to go out..." I decided I didn't want to kill myself, so I went back home and stared at the surf for the next hour. Of at least half a dozen guys, I saw ONE get out. Watching his little rubber suited body swing wildly up and down on the massive lines visible half a mile out to see, I waited impatiently for him to take a wave. And he did, a 3x overhead plus bomb, the first of the set. Shooting down the face this guy got a ridiculously huge barrel and then got spit out---hard. The next seven waves in the set came and trounced him, pounding him so hard I was cringing just watching from a mile away. No one else made it past the breakers that day.
Wave of the Day
Nothing spectacular, but there were a handful of left (closeout) barrels. For the most part the best workable wave I had was a little right shoulder, sharp bottom turn and two nice slices. Take what you can get =)
Summary:
Doran Beach, Sonoma
5'10" Quad Beauty
10:45-12:00
3-4ft, 5ft+ sets
2/5
Wednesday, November 25, 2009
...scary drops
Summary
Seriously scary drops. That sums up the morning's surf. There was pretty ridiculous on-the-head smacks from waves too. There were some where I was legitimately in pain after getting compressed by ten foot bombs...
Waves
Big. Raw. Unruly. Painful. Death drops.
Crowds
About two dozen others out when I first paddled out---slowly dwindling numbers. Surprising amount of women out, almost 1/3 of the people out. Most I've seen anywhere.
Weather
Sunny, pretty warm. The water at Salmon is a fair bit warmer than at Dillon. Honestly somewhat surprising. Beautiful morning---crisp breeze out of the West started to pick up, mushing the waves somewhat, making the paddle pretty treacherous.
Forecast
Big, powerful, quality. Turkey day looks AMAZING. Friday looks a bit brutal, same with Saturday. Sunday looks pretty good too. Today is the smallest day of the coming week.
Eventful Stuff
I was legitimately scared to drop in on most of these waves. I made probably half a dozen waves, but most were intense drops into what look liked deathpits. I say that because the first two waves I took resulted in twenty minute paddles back out, pushed all the way inside until I lucked out back on the paddle. Intense, painful, seriously scary waves this morning...
Wave of the Day
I had a few pretty sweet rights. Intense drops, bottom turns, wraps. They were a bit mushy, but overpowering and definitely scary if you mess up.
Summary:
Salmon Creek, Sonoma
5'10" Quad Beauty
9:45AM-11:30
6-7ft, 8-10ft sets
3/5
Seriously scary drops. That sums up the morning's surf. There was pretty ridiculous on-the-head smacks from waves too. There were some where I was legitimately in pain after getting compressed by ten foot bombs...
Waves
Big. Raw. Unruly. Painful. Death drops.
Crowds
About two dozen others out when I first paddled out---slowly dwindling numbers. Surprising amount of women out, almost 1/3 of the people out. Most I've seen anywhere.
Weather
Sunny, pretty warm. The water at Salmon is a fair bit warmer than at Dillon. Honestly somewhat surprising. Beautiful morning---crisp breeze out of the West started to pick up, mushing the waves somewhat, making the paddle pretty treacherous.
Forecast
Big, powerful, quality. Turkey day looks AMAZING. Friday looks a bit brutal, same with Saturday. Sunday looks pretty good too. Today is the smallest day of the coming week.
Eventful Stuff
I was legitimately scared to drop in on most of these waves. I made probably half a dozen waves, but most were intense drops into what look liked deathpits. I say that because the first two waves I took resulted in twenty minute paddles back out, pushed all the way inside until I lucked out back on the paddle. Intense, painful, seriously scary waves this morning...
Wave of the Day
I had a few pretty sweet rights. Intense drops, bottom turns, wraps. They were a bit mushy, but overpowering and definitely scary if you mess up.
Summary:
Salmon Creek, Sonoma
5'10" Quad Beauty
9:45AM-11:30
6-7ft, 8-10ft sets
3/5
Tuesday, November 24, 2009
NOT a shark fin...it's a dolphin...
Summary
Offshores ALL day. More waves tomorrow, bigger swell, more consistent, should be a fair bit better. That said, this morning was pretty darn fun. My surfing was a little off. No biggie. Lots of fun to be had. Spazzy camera...oh well.
Waves
Decent size, most set waves in the 4-5ft range, some 6ft bombs rolling through every twenty minutes or so. Shape was so-so, as it was groundswell mixed with local windswell. Generally pretty fast, some hollow corners, but for the most part one turn closeouts.
Crowds
About a dozen out. Pretty crowded for a weekday.
Weather
Sunny, warm, BEAUTIFUL. Spectacular fall morning. Seriously the most beautiful day I've seen here all year.
Forecast
Winds look good. Plenty of swell. Should be a fun week...
Eventful Stuff
Dolphin fin...scary shit. I first saw it about thirty feet outside of two other surfers. They were looking right at it, so I figured they knew what was going on. I saw it and thought it was way too big to be a dolphin. That and I have never seen a dolphin here before. Later on I saw it closer. Huge fin, biggest dolphin I have ever seen it before.
Wave of the Day
Sweet right. Nice drop, bottom turn mini cut, pocketed for two second, then I get dropped in on. Bummer, especially considering that there were like half a dozen people out at the time. There were quite a few others, mostly one-snap finisher waves...pretty quick because the tide was dropping fast.
Summary:
Dillon Beach, Marin
5'10" Quad Beauty
8:15-10:30
3-5ft, 6ft+sets
3/5
Offshores ALL day. More waves tomorrow, bigger swell, more consistent, should be a fair bit better. That said, this morning was pretty darn fun. My surfing was a little off. No biggie. Lots of fun to be had. Spazzy camera...oh well.
Waves
Decent size, most set waves in the 4-5ft range, some 6ft bombs rolling through every twenty minutes or so. Shape was so-so, as it was groundswell mixed with local windswell. Generally pretty fast, some hollow corners, but for the most part one turn closeouts.
Crowds
About a dozen out. Pretty crowded for a weekday.
Weather
Sunny, warm, BEAUTIFUL. Spectacular fall morning. Seriously the most beautiful day I've seen here all year.
Forecast
Winds look good. Plenty of swell. Should be a fun week...
Eventful Stuff
Dolphin fin...scary shit. I first saw it about thirty feet outside of two other surfers. They were looking right at it, so I figured they knew what was going on. I saw it and thought it was way too big to be a dolphin. That and I have never seen a dolphin here before. Later on I saw it closer. Huge fin, biggest dolphin I have ever seen it before.
Wave of the Day
Sweet right. Nice drop, bottom turn mini cut, pocketed for two second, then I get dropped in on. Bummer, especially considering that there were like half a dozen people out at the time. There were quite a few others, mostly one-snap finisher waves...pretty quick because the tide was dropping fast.
Summary:
Dillon Beach, Marin
5'10" Quad Beauty
8:15-10:30
3-5ft, 6ft+sets
3/5
Sunday, November 22, 2009
Sooo much fun. Hopefully this week holds more in store for me...
Somehow this session missed a blog-about. Too late now...
Summary:
County Line, Malibu
5'10" Quad Beauty
6:50-9:15AM
3-4ft, some 5ft sets
3+/5
Summary:
County Line, Malibu
5'10" Quad Beauty
6:50-9:15AM
3-4ft, some 5ft sets
3+/5
Saturday, November 21, 2009
Beautiful day...mediocre surf...
Summary
Spectacular afternoon to be swimming in the ocean. Nice little jaunt with Lauren. Some crazy dolphin sightings.
Waves
Meh. Not too much to work with. The tide was low enough that it should have been working but it really wasn't. Oh well. I didn't really get anything notable, or much of anything at all. Oh well sad day (but not really...)
Crowds
About a dozen others out. Everyone was pretty intense trying to get the actual set waves. I'm over it though no biggie.
Weather
BEAUTIFUL! SPECTACULAR! Bright, clear skies, breezy but warm afternoon...
Forecast
Irrelevant. Post-posting.
Eventful Stuff
Lauren was swimming about 75 feet outside from where I was sitting when about half a dozen dolphins caught one of the set waves. Their whole fin and half their body was sticking up off the wave for about ten seconds. Pretty ridiculous. One of the coolest things I've seen in awhile.
Wave of the Day
I ended up catching that dolphin wave. I thought that was pretty cool.
Summary:
Staircase, Malibu
5'10" Quad Beauty
3:45-4:45PM
2-3ft, 4ft sets (but mushy and fatty...)
1+/5
Spectacular afternoon to be swimming in the ocean. Nice little jaunt with Lauren. Some crazy dolphin sightings.
Waves
Meh. Not too much to work with. The tide was low enough that it should have been working but it really wasn't. Oh well. I didn't really get anything notable, or much of anything at all. Oh well sad day (but not really...)
Crowds
About a dozen others out. Everyone was pretty intense trying to get the actual set waves. I'm over it though no biggie.
Weather
BEAUTIFUL! SPECTACULAR! Bright, clear skies, breezy but warm afternoon...
Forecast
Irrelevant. Post-posting.
Eventful Stuff
Lauren was swimming about 75 feet outside from where I was sitting when about half a dozen dolphins caught one of the set waves. Their whole fin and half their body was sticking up off the wave for about ten seconds. Pretty ridiculous. One of the coolest things I've seen in awhile.
Wave of the Day
I ended up catching that dolphin wave. I thought that was pretty cool.
Summary:
Staircase, Malibu
5'10" Quad Beauty
3:45-4:45PM
2-3ft, 4ft sets (but mushy and fatty...)
1+/5
Friday, November 20, 2009
A few fun leftovers...
Summary
A little (somewhat) late morning surf. Beautiful morning, good conditions, rather uneventful, leashless session. Some decent waves, quality almost chest high sets would roll through occasionally. Lots of fun to be had...
Waves
Got better as the tide got higher. The early part of the session was pretty drained, most rides pretty mediocre and short. As the tide rose the session improved greatly, somehow the swell ended up hitting the sandbars better, making for much more workable, fun shoulders.
Crowds
Not bad. About 1/3 as many out as yesterday.
Weather
Sunny, warm, light offshores. Beautiful.
Forecast
Looks good. Tomorrow should be slightly bigger than today, Sunday should be AMAZING. I have high expectations. Norcal is looking pretty darn good...good conditions, GOOD swell. It will be an eventful Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday, Friday, Saturday, and Sunday (next week...)
STOOOKKKEEDD---thank you Ocean for hooking me up every Thanksgiving!
Eventful Stuff
Lauren came with and went on a little run. Leashless surf session...pretty fun. Better exercise and forces you to be a little more cautious. I'd almost argue more fun too ;)
Wave of the Day
Of course, it's the one wave I didn't record. I did get a photo of it though. I pressed the time photo accidentally, so I ended up getting a decent little shot. The wave itself was bomb. Bottom turn, cutback, wraparound (photo is of this), two little pumps, cut off the top, see the wave setting up with a nice little ramp, do a mini launch (too slow for much more) and land it. That's all I wanted from the morning... I am content.
Summary:
Zuma, Malibu
5'10" Quad Beauty
8:00-9:15AM
1-3ft, waist +sets
2+/5
A little (somewhat) late morning surf. Beautiful morning, good conditions, rather uneventful, leashless session. Some decent waves, quality almost chest high sets would roll through occasionally. Lots of fun to be had...
Waves
Got better as the tide got higher. The early part of the session was pretty drained, most rides pretty mediocre and short. As the tide rose the session improved greatly, somehow the swell ended up hitting the sandbars better, making for much more workable, fun shoulders.
Crowds
Not bad. About 1/3 as many out as yesterday.
Weather
Sunny, warm, light offshores. Beautiful.
Forecast
Looks good. Tomorrow should be slightly bigger than today, Sunday should be AMAZING. I have high expectations. Norcal is looking pretty darn good...good conditions, GOOD swell. It will be an eventful Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday, Friday, Saturday, and Sunday (next week...)
STOOOKKKEEDD---thank you Ocean for hooking me up every Thanksgiving!
Eventful Stuff
Lauren came with and went on a little run. Leashless surf session...pretty fun. Better exercise and forces you to be a little more cautious. I'd almost argue more fun too ;)
Wave of the Day
Of course, it's the one wave I didn't record. I did get a photo of it though. I pressed the time photo accidentally, so I ended up getting a decent little shot. The wave itself was bomb. Bottom turn, cutback, wraparound (photo is of this), two little pumps, cut off the top, see the wave setting up with a nice little ramp, do a mini launch (too slow for much more) and land it. That's all I wanted from the morning... I am content.
Summary:
Zuma, Malibu
5'10" Quad Beauty
8:00-9:15AM
1-3ft, waist +sets
2+/5
Thursday, November 19, 2009
Teeheehee
Summary
Fun. Worth it. Better than I was expecting. Delightful. Not perfect, but awesome nonetheless.
Waves
Decent chest high on average size. Nice little inside current pulling you towards Point Dume. Enough swell that it was peaky up and down the beach, not too crowded any one place. Pretty darn fun, workable shoulders. The bigger sets would closeout on some outside sandbar. Lots of turns, a few little airs I saw others get. None set up perfectly for me, so I'd rather not waste a wave and break a board...
Crowds
A few out, but not too crowded. Certainly not an empty lineup, but not too intense. There were a few barks out there...though only one or two directed at me...
Weather
Beautiful. Delightful morning. Far better surf than I woke up expecting. It was pretty bomb. It's nice to get to use the shortboard every once in awhile too...
Forecast
Good. Very good. Very good for Socal. Very good for Norcal. Thanksgiving is going to be BOMB amazing AGAIN. Super stoked.
Eventful Stuff
Saw a few friends out there. Brian was surfing with his brother and some others. Driving up HE is the reason why I surfed Zuma. I saw some guy get a jacked up 5ft barrel while looking at the surf. I was like---SOLD. I get out there and Brian was like---yea, that was me. So sick. Super jealous. I got a few shacks but nothing that solid.
Wave of the Day
6'1" Al Merrick MX
7:00-9:15
3-4ft, 5ft sets
3+/5
Fun. Worth it. Better than I was expecting. Delightful. Not perfect, but awesome nonetheless.
Waves
Decent chest high on average size. Nice little inside current pulling you towards Point Dume. Enough swell that it was peaky up and down the beach, not too crowded any one place. Pretty darn fun, workable shoulders. The bigger sets would closeout on some outside sandbar. Lots of turns, a few little airs I saw others get. None set up perfectly for me, so I'd rather not waste a wave and break a board...
Crowds
A few out, but not too crowded. Certainly not an empty lineup, but not too intense. There were a few barks out there...though only one or two directed at me...
Weather
Beautiful. Delightful morning. Far better surf than I woke up expecting. It was pretty bomb. It's nice to get to use the shortboard every once in awhile too...
Forecast
Good. Very good. Very good for Socal. Very good for Norcal. Thanksgiving is going to be BOMB amazing AGAIN. Super stoked.
Eventful Stuff
Saw a few friends out there. Brian was surfing with his brother and some others. Driving up HE is the reason why I surfed Zuma. I saw some guy get a jacked up 5ft barrel while looking at the surf. I was like---SOLD. I get out there and Brian was like---yea, that was me. So sick. Super jealous. I got a few shacks but nothing that solid.
Wave of the Day
I had a few solid waves. Probably my favorite was the chest high, steep drop, bottom turn plus three cutbacks, snap at the end. Pretty basic but still super fun. There were quite a few shacks and barrels too, though it wasn't ideal swell for that I'd argue...
Summary:
Zuma, Malibu6'1" Al Merrick MX
7:00-9:15
3-4ft, 5ft sets
3+/5
Wednesday, November 18, 2009
Some fun to be had...
Summary
Conditions left a lot to be desired. Right place, right time kind of session. I was both, alot.
Waves
Decent size, waist high to almost shoulder high, pretty sloppy swell mix. Rather consistent. Once the tide started to drop to more manageable levels, the fun quotient went way up. Workable shoulders, pretty soft but darn fun.
Crowds
Not at all. No one else out.
Weather
Sunny, warm, beautiful, NW winds...
Forecast
Looks good. Looks real good. Tomorrow should be a delightful session. I am stoked. I think I'm going to test out Westward and/or Zuma, since the tide is going to drown County real early...
Eventful Stuff
Solo sesh. One guy ended up surfing the beachbreak for about thirty minutes, but I was the only one out there. I was ripping given the conditions too, pretty surprised no one else wanted to come out...
Wave of the Day
Sweet drop 4ft+ wave, bottom turn, cutback, wraparound, two fishy pumps, smack the face super hard. Doesn't sound like much, but given with what I was working with, I thought it to be pretty impressive. There were a bunch of other good ones too though.
Summary:
County Line, Malibu
5'10" Quad Beauty
11:30-1:30
3-4ft, 4ft+sets
2+/5
Conditions left a lot to be desired. Right place, right time kind of session. I was both, alot.
Waves
Decent size, waist high to almost shoulder high, pretty sloppy swell mix. Rather consistent. Once the tide started to drop to more manageable levels, the fun quotient went way up. Workable shoulders, pretty soft but darn fun.
Crowds
Not at all. No one else out.
Weather
Sunny, warm, beautiful, NW winds...
Forecast
Looks good. Looks real good. Tomorrow should be a delightful session. I am stoked. I think I'm going to test out Westward and/or Zuma, since the tide is going to drown County real early...
Eventful Stuff
Solo sesh. One guy ended up surfing the beachbreak for about thirty minutes, but I was the only one out there. I was ripping given the conditions too, pretty surprised no one else wanted to come out...
Wave of the Day
Sweet drop 4ft+ wave, bottom turn, cutback, wraparound, two fishy pumps, smack the face super hard. Doesn't sound like much, but given with what I was working with, I thought it to be pretty impressive. There were a bunch of other good ones too though.
Summary:
County Line, Malibu
5'10" Quad Beauty
11:30-1:30
3-4ft, 4ft+sets
2+/5
Wednesday, November 11, 2009
For the swell being gone, the waves are pretty fun...
Summary
Quick corners. A few mini barrels, nothing awe inspiring, but certainly an entertaining morning. Beautiful, clear, crisp, offshores. Life is good.
Waves
Short rides, quick corners, a few little closer smacks. Certainly the right board to get into these waves...need something a little fat to have a really good time I feel.
Crowds
Not, about a dozen came out as they saw me and a few others ripping the nonexistent swell.
Weather
Spectacular morning. Beautiful.
Forecast
Looks dead. DEAD. Not like "little" but straight up dead. That plus fatty morning tide....boo.
Eventful Stuff
Lauren the beautiful swimmer.
Wave of the Day
I had one fun right barrel that I made it out of. Little drop, barreled, section closes out so I shoot towards shore, make it back to the shoulder in time for a closing smack. Pretty fun.
Summary:
Zuma, Malibu
5'10" Southpoint Fish
7:00-8:30AM
1-3ft, waist +sets
2/5
Quick corners. A few mini barrels, nothing awe inspiring, but certainly an entertaining morning. Beautiful, clear, crisp, offshores. Life is good.
Waves
Short rides, quick corners, a few little closer smacks. Certainly the right board to get into these waves...need something a little fat to have a really good time I feel.
Crowds
Not, about a dozen came out as they saw me and a few others ripping the nonexistent swell.
Weather
Spectacular morning. Beautiful.
Forecast
Looks dead. DEAD. Not like "little" but straight up dead. That plus fatty morning tide....boo.
Eventful Stuff
Lauren the beautiful swimmer.
Wave of the Day
I had one fun right barrel that I made it out of. Little drop, barreled, section closes out so I shoot towards shore, make it back to the shoulder in time for a closing smack. Pretty fun.
Summary:
Zuma, Malibu
5'10" Southpoint Fish
7:00-8:30AM
1-3ft, waist +sets
2/5
Tuesday, November 10, 2009
Monday, November 9, 2009
Monday delight
Summary
Waves
Crowds
Weather
Forecast
Eventful Stuff
Wave of the Day
Summary:
County Line, Malibu
5'10" Quad Beauty
7:00-10:00
3-5ft, 6ft sets
3+/5
Waves
Crowds
Weather
Forecast
Eventful Stuff
Wave of the Day
Summary:
County Line, Malibu
5'10" Quad Beauty
7:00-10:00
3-5ft, 6ft sets
3+/5
Sunday, November 8, 2009
F me...(but still worth it)
Summary
Fun. Worth it. A little painful. No pain, no gain, they say...
Waves
Good size, good shape. An absolute blast. Workable shoulders, lots of corners, a few little coverups, a lot of closeouts, and a relatively mellow crowd (given there actually being waves...)
Crowds
Pretty moderate crowds. Not as bad as they could have been. Plenty of waves to go around. Definitely at least two hundred out at any one time, most surfing the point with a few dozen fooling around on the beach break.
Weather
Sunny, warm, light offshores. Beautiful morning.
Forecast
Tomorrow looks good, a little something on Tuesday and Wednesday, but after that doesn't look like there's going to be much of anything for some time...boo.
Eventful Stuff
I rolled my face on a rock. It slapped me pretty good on the back of my head, a nice little slash. Three more stitches. Perfect. That said, the session was well worth it. It would have been at least an hour longer if I didn't hurt myself...again.
Wave of the Day
I honestly don't know what to say. I had so many good ones. Probably half a dozen 3-4 turn waves. A few little closeout pops too. This board is SICCKKK. So much fun on good waves. I need a little shortboarding action soon though...
Summary:
County Line, Malibu
5'10" Quad Beauty
6:45-9:45
3-5ft, 6-8ft sets
3/5
Travis
Fun. Worth it. A little painful. No pain, no gain, they say...
Waves
Good size, good shape. An absolute blast. Workable shoulders, lots of corners, a few little coverups, a lot of closeouts, and a relatively mellow crowd (given there actually being waves...)
Crowds
Pretty moderate crowds. Not as bad as they could have been. Plenty of waves to go around. Definitely at least two hundred out at any one time, most surfing the point with a few dozen fooling around on the beach break.
Weather
Sunny, warm, light offshores. Beautiful morning.
Forecast
Tomorrow looks good, a little something on Tuesday and Wednesday, but after that doesn't look like there's going to be much of anything for some time...boo.
Eventful Stuff
I rolled my face on a rock. It slapped me pretty good on the back of my head, a nice little slash. Three more stitches. Perfect. That said, the session was well worth it. It would have been at least an hour longer if I didn't hurt myself...again.
Wave of the Day
I honestly don't know what to say. I had so many good ones. Probably half a dozen 3-4 turn waves. A few little closeout pops too. This board is SICCKKK. So much fun on good waves. I need a little shortboarding action soon though...
Summary:
County Line, Malibu
5'10" Quad Beauty
6:45-9:45
3-5ft, 6-8ft sets
3/5
Travis
Saturday, November 7, 2009
Well, why the hell would you surf in the morning with waves like that in the afternoon...
Summary
The answer: you wouldn't. It was so damn good, I don't even know what to say. It was effing spectacular. It was inspiring. It was delightful. I also got to play with my little wrist cam. I have a little finagling before I'll get it down. Both Westward and County were fun, though each in their own ways. County was fun in the surfing way, Westward was fun in the delightful-morning-surf way.
Waves
Morning was small and inconsistent, the tide too high for it to be turning on well, rather closeouty. The evening was the opposite. Small between sets, sets were decent size, decent shape, a little bit of paddling to get into them but the point would jack the size up 1-2ft and they would break nicely (though only a foot or so above the rocks...
Couldn't ask for more, seriously. I mean you could, and that would be Ventura, but I'm happy with what I got...
Crowds
Only a half dozen out at Westward, including Brian. County was "crowded" with probably a hundred people scattered up and down the point. I was surfing the far point, going for the monster set waves. Soooo fun, and no crowds. Once the sun began fading the crowds thinned quickly....
Weather
Spec friggen tacular. The morn was chilly. The afternoon was perfect. A Malibu fall if there ever was one. Reminds me of home, except far more perfect of waves...and a point break.
Forecast
Tomorrow is bomb, should be 4ft, 5ft+sets super long period
Monday should be bomb, 3-4ft, 5ft sets
Tuesday should be bomb, 3-4ft
Etc. Doesn't calm down too much...thankfully.
Eventful Stuff
Nothing whatsoever. And it is delightful. I am busy as sin, I have a ridiculous amount of everything to do, three group projects, massive amounts of reading, and I feel spectacular. Life is great. I had a little beer after dinner, and it got me wired like no other. I have had the most productive evening of the last month, so I figured I'd make sure to update my surfing escapades...
Wave of the Day
There were so many, seriously. So many friggen amazing waves. I had a few little fast barrels at Westward, but nothing noteworthy. County I had a few little barrels. Eric claims he had a one and a half sec barrel, which sounds a little ridic but I'll give it to him. That's how good the waves were.
My best wave was a right, bomb monster wave. Eric is farther outside than me, paddling out and is like, "Alex, you got this?!" I look up and see this monster, probably six foot wave, nice little barrel already breaking out. I'm like, "Shit yea." Of course I'm too far inside in every respect, but that's why God created Quad fin boards...completely side drop, race the face, make it to the non-whitewatered face (unfortunately the barrel disappeared once it really started breaking...) do a nice little slap, down the face, racing the closeout section. Just ahead two kids (and a handful of other non-notable persons) start paddling for the wave, I'm like "wtf", they're like, "oh yea, this is a sick wave" so one of the kids drops in on me and sections the whole of the wave infront of me. Ass.
But really, that was a sweet (though seemingly uneventful wave, there was lots and lots of racing/pumping...) As well there was one little ramp wave that gave my sweet fish about a foot of frontside air. Delicious. That got me stoked for the rest of the day...and another afternoon session tomorrow. Awesome.
Summary:
Westward-Zuma, Malibu
6'1" Al Merrick MX
7:30-9:00
3ft, 4ft sets
2/5
Lauren
County Line, Malibu
5'10" Quad Beauty
3:45-6:00
3-4ft, 5ft sets
4/5
Eric
The answer: you wouldn't. It was so damn good, I don't even know what to say. It was effing spectacular. It was inspiring. It was delightful. I also got to play with my little wrist cam. I have a little finagling before I'll get it down. Both Westward and County were fun, though each in their own ways. County was fun in the surfing way, Westward was fun in the delightful-morning-surf way.
Waves
Morning was small and inconsistent, the tide too high for it to be turning on well, rather closeouty. The evening was the opposite. Small between sets, sets were decent size, decent shape, a little bit of paddling to get into them but the point would jack the size up 1-2ft and they would break nicely (though only a foot or so above the rocks...
Couldn't ask for more, seriously. I mean you could, and that would be Ventura, but I'm happy with what I got...
Crowds
Only a half dozen out at Westward, including Brian. County was "crowded" with probably a hundred people scattered up and down the point. I was surfing the far point, going for the monster set waves. Soooo fun, and no crowds. Once the sun began fading the crowds thinned quickly....
Weather
Spec friggen tacular. The morn was chilly. The afternoon was perfect. A Malibu fall if there ever was one. Reminds me of home, except far more perfect of waves...and a point break.
Forecast
Tomorrow is bomb, should be 4ft, 5ft+sets super long period
Monday should be bomb, 3-4ft, 5ft sets
Tuesday should be bomb, 3-4ft
Etc. Doesn't calm down too much...thankfully.
Eventful Stuff
Nothing whatsoever. And it is delightful. I am busy as sin, I have a ridiculous amount of everything to do, three group projects, massive amounts of reading, and I feel spectacular. Life is great. I had a little beer after dinner, and it got me wired like no other. I have had the most productive evening of the last month, so I figured I'd make sure to update my surfing escapades...
Wave of the Day
There were so many, seriously. So many friggen amazing waves. I had a few little fast barrels at Westward, but nothing noteworthy. County I had a few little barrels. Eric claims he had a one and a half sec barrel, which sounds a little ridic but I'll give it to him. That's how good the waves were.
My best wave was a right, bomb monster wave. Eric is farther outside than me, paddling out and is like, "Alex, you got this?!" I look up and see this monster, probably six foot wave, nice little barrel already breaking out. I'm like, "Shit yea." Of course I'm too far inside in every respect, but that's why God created Quad fin boards...completely side drop, race the face, make it to the non-whitewatered face (unfortunately the barrel disappeared once it really started breaking...) do a nice little slap, down the face, racing the closeout section. Just ahead two kids (and a handful of other non-notable persons) start paddling for the wave, I'm like "wtf", they're like, "oh yea, this is a sick wave" so one of the kids drops in on me and sections the whole of the wave infront of me. Ass.
But really, that was a sweet (though seemingly uneventful wave, there was lots and lots of racing/pumping...) As well there was one little ramp wave that gave my sweet fish about a foot of frontside air. Delicious. That got me stoked for the rest of the day...and another afternoon session tomorrow. Awesome.
Summary:
Westward-Zuma, Malibu
6'1" Al Merrick MX
7:30-9:00
3ft, 4ft sets
2/5
Lauren
County Line, Malibu
5'10" Quad Beauty
3:45-6:00
3-4ft, 5ft sets
4/5
Eric
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