Thursday, November 19, 2009

Teeheehee

Summary
Fun. Worth it. Better than I was expecting. Delightful. Not perfect, but awesome nonetheless.
Waves
Decent chest high on average size. Nice little inside current pulling you towards Point Dume. Enough swell that it was peaky up and down the beach, not too crowded any one place. Pretty darn fun, workable shoulders. The bigger sets would closeout on some outside sandbar. Lots of turns, a few little airs I saw others get. None set up perfectly for me, so I'd rather not waste a wave and break a board...
Crowds
A few out, but not too crowded. Certainly not an empty lineup, but not too intense. There were a few barks out there...though only one or two directed at me...
Weather
Beautiful. Delightful morning. Far better surf than I woke up expecting. It was pretty bomb. It's nice to get to use the shortboard every once in awhile too...
Forecast
Good. Very good. Very good for Socal. Very good for Norcal. Thanksgiving is going to be BOMB amazing AGAIN. Super stoked.
Eventful Stuff
Saw a few friends out there. Brian was surfing with his brother and some others. Driving up HE is the reason why I surfed Zuma. I saw some guy get a jacked up 5ft barrel while looking at the surf. I was like---SOLD. I get out there and Brian was like---yea, that was me. So sick. Super jealous. I got a few shacks but nothing that solid.
Wave of the Day

I had a few solid waves. Probably my favorite was the chest high, steep drop, bottom turn plus three cutbacks, snap at the end. Pretty basic but  still super fun. There were quite a few shacks and barrels too, though it wasn't ideal swell for that I'd argue...
Summary:
Zuma, Malibu
6'1" Al Merrick MX
7:00-9:15
3-4ft, 5ft sets
3+/5

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