Summary
Take yesterday's good winds, make them better, add more (less consistent, thankfully) swell, greatly increase the tide, and add a little sun. What you have is prime surfing conditions, and a very likely Alex-will-hurt-himself-somehow morning. They were, and I did.
Waves
Sweet Jesus. I'll summarize it like this: before I caught any of today's amazing waves, I saw one unridden 5ft+ frothy, delicious, huge slot, left barrel, line up perfectly with the offshore winds and inspire everyone out there with a "WTF that was amazing!" moment. There weren't a whole lot of those, but there were plenty of quick corners and fast barrels. Not huge, but a heck of a lot more workable than yesterday.
Crowds
The crowds are evidence to this morning's amazing potential. Probably at least a hundred and fifty or two hundred guys out. Most crowded I've seen any spot up here in a long time. That said, NO other spot in Sonoma would be working, and Bolinas or Drakes would be the only places in Marin. The crowds are justified.
Weather
Beautiful crisp sunny fall morning. 15-25MPH + offshore winds, doing a ridiculous job of hollowing up the surf. Almost everyone was wearing a hood, with good reason.
Forecast
Tomorrow looks like a Dillon Beach day. Probably the same size as today (here) maybe a few feet bigger. Should be straight offshore in the morning, then more Northerly later. I have hope. SoCal is going to suck this week. F it.
Eventful Stuff
I sliced my middle finger pretty good on my left hand. It was pouring blood til I got it wrapped in a very bloody Kleenex. Gives me a little something to remember the day by though.
My dad came to the beach and was watching everyone surf. Pretty fun morning to watch I'd argue. He certainly thought so. As I came out of the water and started walking back I looked at the ocean as there was a set coming in, probably six or seven waves, each bigger than the last. The last wave this guy gets and absolutely destroys it, way more than I did any wave today. Like three snaps off the top, blow tail, wraps, and it made me think about going back out...I was impressed. Then I realized I couldn't feel my feet, my nose was pouring out fluid, and my left hand dripping blood.
Unfortunately the morn schooled me for no good reason.
Wave of the Day
One right, chest plus, one of the actually decent shoulders I managed to find. Fun drop, bottom turn, nice (sick spray) cutback, one little cut off the top, see the wave wall up, and a nice little snap to finish it off. Fun, decent little wave.
Summary:
Doran Beach, Sonoma
5'10" Quad Beauty
7:00-8:45
4-5ft, bigger sets (with gnar gnar fatty offshore barrels)
3+/5
Saturday, November 28, 2009
Just what I was hoping for!
Labels:
big swell,
fall,
injury,
legit scared,
Norcal,
offshore winds,
Quad Fish,
surfing
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