Well, why the hell would you surf in the morning with waves like that in the afternoon...

Summary
The answer: you wouldn't. It was so damn good, I don't even know what to say. It was effing spectacular. It was inspiring. It was delightful. I also got to play with my little wrist cam. I have a little finagling before I'll get it down. Both Westward and County were fun, though each in their own ways. County was fun in the surfing way, Westward was fun in the delightful-morning-surf way.
Waves
Morning was small and inconsistent, the tide too high for it to be turning on well, rather closeouty. The evening was the opposite. Small between sets, sets were decent size, decent shape, a little bit of paddling to get into them but the point would jack the size up 1-2ft and they would break nicely (though only a foot or so above the rocks...
Couldn't ask for more, seriously. I mean you could, and that would be Ventura, but I'm happy with what I got...
Crowds
Only a half dozen out at Westward, including Brian. County was "crowded" with probably a hundred people scattered up and down the point. I was surfing the far point, going for the monster set waves. Soooo fun, and no crowds. Once the sun began fading the crowds thinned quickly....
Weather
Spec friggen tacular. The morn was chilly. The afternoon was perfect. A Malibu fall if there ever was one. Reminds me of home, except far more perfect of waves...and a point break.
Forecast
Tomorrow is bomb, should be 4ft, 5ft+sets super long period
Monday should be bomb, 3-4ft, 5ft sets
Tuesday should be bomb, 3-4ft
Etc. Doesn't calm down too much...thankfully.
Eventful Stuff
Nothing whatsoever. And it is delightful. I am busy as sin, I have a ridiculous amount of everything to do, three group projects, massive amounts of reading, and I feel spectacular. Life is great. I had a little beer after dinner, and it got me wired like no other. I have had the most productive evening of the last month, so I figured I'd make sure to update my surfing escapades...
Wave of the Day
There were so many, seriously. So many friggen amazing waves. I had a few little fast barrels at Westward, but nothing noteworthy. County I had a few little barrels. Eric claims he had a one and a half sec barrel, which sounds a little ridic but I'll give it to him. That's how good the waves were.
My best wave was a right, bomb monster wave. Eric is farther outside than me, paddling out and is like, "Alex, you got this?!" I look up and see this monster, probably six foot wave, nice little barrel already breaking out. I'm like, "Shit yea." Of course I'm too far inside in every respect, but that's why God created Quad fin boards...completely side drop, race the face, make it to the non-whitewatered face (unfortunately the barrel disappeared once it really started breaking...) do a nice little slap, down the face, racing the closeout section. Just ahead two kids (and a handful of other non-notable persons) start paddling for the wave, I'm like "wtf", they're like, "oh yea, this is a sick wave" so one of the kids drops in on me and sections the whole of the wave infront of me. Ass.

But really, that was a sweet (though seemingly uneventful wave, there was lots and lots of racing/pumping...) As well there was one little ramp wave that gave my sweet fish about a foot of frontside air. Delicious. That got me stoked for the rest of the day...and another afternoon session tomorrow. Awesome.

Summary:
Westward-Zuma, Malibu
6'1" Al Merrick MX
7:30-9:00
3ft, 4ft sets
2/5
Lauren

County Line, Malibu
5'10" Quad Beauty
3:45-6:00
3-4ft, 5ft sets
4/5
Eric