Yeeeeah! What a way to go out of the year!

Summary

Waves

Crowds

Weather

Forecast

Eventful Stuff

Wave of the Day


Summary:
Dillon Beach, Marin
5'10" Quad Beauty Fish
7:45-9:15
5ft, 6ft sets
3+/5

More like it!

Summary

Waves

Crowds

Weather

Forecast

Eventful Stuff

Wave of the Day


Summary:
Dillon Beach, Marin
5'10" Quad Beauty Fish
7:45-9:15
4-5ft
3/5

Closeouty...bleh

Summary

Waves

Crowds

Weather

Forecast

Eventful Stuff

Wave of the Day


Summary:
Dillon Beach
6'1" Al Merrick MX
7:00-7:45
3-6ft
1+/5

Sweet....at least the afternoon

Summary
Much as yesterday---the morning was super wally, not many workable waves. The afternoon, however, was filled with some sick rides. I paddled out to the pit and was rewarded greatly for the arduous paddle.
Waves
The morning didn't have much to work with. Pretty much just a few mediocre waves. Nothing special. The afternoon had plenty of shoulders, plenty of fun, and some jerk with an attitude.
Crowds
Not. Either. There were about a half dozen out in the morning, and a dozen out in the afternoon. Light given the fact it's Christmas and no one has work...people spending time with the family I guess...
Weather
Beautiful. The morning a little iffy, a little cloud cover, the morning clear as clear can be. Spectacularly beautiful. Oh, and light winds all day. Bomb.
Forecast
Looks big, potentially good, potentially overpowering. Probably a little bit of both. Uh oh Sunday.
Eventful Stuff
Dr. Broffman SUPing...pretty crazy to watch. And the guy giving him mad attitude, "looking out for the rest of us" because "he gets his waves." I laughed and corrected him. Jerk.
Wave of the Day
Sick left at the pit. Not super long but a good glimpse of what it has to offer. Hopefully it'll be working later on this coming week. We'll see, but it was going off. I only got a handful of waves then I called it quits because the other guy out there paddled in (and it's a little scary...)

Summary:
Dillon Beach
5'10" Quad Fish
7:15-8:45
4-6ft
2/5

Dillon Beach/Pit
5'10" Quad Fish
3:00-4:45
3-5ft
3+/5

Christmas eve---just what Santa ordered!

Summary
Sweet. Worthy surf day. More surfing than working...hard to argue with that. Oh, and the surf was fun.
Waves
The morning was pretty wally, difficult to get in to waves, hard to make much out of any of them. I did my best but honestly I didn't get as much surfing in as I would have hoped.
The afternoon was also pretty wally, but definitely quite a bit more broken up than the morning. The tide was a fair bit lower (surprisingly) making the waves quite a bit more workable. They almost seemed like windswell. Quite punchy, generally pretty quick but easy to distinguish and catch shoulders.
Crowds
NOT. A few out in the morn, though surprisingly less than yesterday. The afternoon had a handful out, but surprisingly not that many given the superb conditions.
Weather
The morning was pretty chilly, but nowhere near as cold as yesterday. Clear, crisp, beautiful morning. The afternoon was more of the same. Spectacular, pretty calm winds, almost glassy in the afternoon (and textured because of the offshores in the morn...)
Forecast
Oh my god. Great potential. Offshore winds through next Wednesday...two different swells shooting 6-15ft waves. High potential...I have faith in you Norcal! Don't let me down!
Eventful Stuff
Afternoon surf. Delightful. Sick punchy waves. Off work early...life is good.
Wave of the Day
Super fun morning wave, the first wave I got. Sweet drop, shoot up the face, little cut off the top, tuck into the little closeout barrel. There were some sick afternoon waves too, but I'd say the morning one was the best because it was a good way to start the morning off (and unfortunately the best wave I had all morning...)


Summary:
Dillon Beach
5'10" Quad Fish
7:15-9:00AM
4-5ft
2/5

Dillon Beach
5'10" Quad Fish
3:00-4:45PM
4-5ft, peaky
3+/5

Sick waves

Summary
That's what I was hoping for. Not just hollow shoulders, but hollow shoulders mixed in with (very cold) ripable waves. Super fun, pretty punchy, very windswellesque. It's supposed to be 14-16sec groundswell, but the way it hits the sandbars it gives some quick, awesome shoulders. All in all, I was cold as could be, brisk offshores, 51degree water, and elusive (unfindable) booties...
Waves
Punchy as punchy can be. I was in the right place at the right time A LOT. Found quite a few good rides on the amazingly consistent surf. Quality. This is what DB is all about.
Crowds
Given today was supposed to be pretty crappy with onshores and weird swell, there were only like three other guys out. A handful pulled up to the bluffs but no one came out. That said, I left early so I'm sure people came after that.
Weather
Sunny, beautiful, but REALLY REALLY COLD. The coldest surf session I can remember since the one session last year with the crunchy sand. God I hope it's like this for the next two weeks...I would be so content...
Forecast
Looks delightful. Seriously, offshores every day for the next week, all day. That plus some serious swell coming in this weekend. I'm kind of concerned because it's going to be so perfect and pretty big, at least 6ft up to 12-13ft...
Eventful Stuff
The cold. The invisible booties.
Wave of the Day
Post the video of one of them...


Summary:
Dillon Beach, Marin
5'10" Quad Beauty Fish
7:15-8:20
3-5ft, slightly bigger sets
3+/5

Now that's more like it

Summary
I got owned a lot today. That said, I also got lots of barrels. I even got a few sick slow motion videos of that...sweet!
Waves
Good size, much better shape than yesterday, quite a lot of fun. Overall still very wally, but enough time for a drop (or side drop) and a slap at least.  Other than that, quite frankly, all I got was barreled. Hard concept to deal with, but I guess I'm OK with it.
Crowds
A handful out, much fewer (though better conditions) than yesterday.
Weather
OK---the sun showed itself less than five minutes after I got out of the water.
Forecast
Looks GREAT. See yesterdays for more forecasting potential, but basically awesome ELSE (potentially) Monday and Tuesday. Christmas should be SPECTACULAR. Excited as heck.
Eventful Stuff
The weather turned crappy in the afternoon, south winds, lots of drizzle, and gross skies. Besides that just ripping waves, that's always eventful. Also I only have my quad fish and MX while I'm home for the next couple weeks...
Wave of the Day
BARREL. See the video I will attach (I'll actually do it this time...) There were about a half dozen rather comparable to this. Drop & shack.

Summary:
Dillon Beach, Marin
5'10" Quad Beauty Fish
7:15-9:45
4-5ft, 6ft sets
3+/5

Sleeping in and still surfing...delicious

Summary
Overall the morning was full of intense offshores, big walls, hollow corners, and a somewhat painful paddle back out. Makes you appreciate either a big fast-paddle board or a small don't-get-pulled shortboard. In between, not quite so hot. I had a decent amount of corners, a few little barrels, but for the most part just a relaxing, chilly surf.
Waves
Pretty consistently shoulder to head high, with bigger waves occasionally rearing their heads. Sets were somewhat consistent, waves not so much workable as just big walls. One day the quality sandbars will magically appear and the actual surf will be delightful once again. One day.
Crowds
Quite a few for DB. Half a dozen out when I first paddled out, when the parking lot opened up about two dozen more came out. No issue for getting waves. A few people on shorter boards, but for the most part everyone was surfing logs, like usual.
Weather
Sunny, crisp, chilly. Delightful offshores making even the closeouts look bomb.
Forecast
Looks good. Real good. Smaller tomorrow, bigger all next week. Might have go go up to Doran on Christmas...we'll see. Smallest should be chest-shoulder high this week. Oh yea, and else Monday/Tuesday, should be offshores, good swell, good tides EVERY DAY THROUGH NEXT WEEKEND. BOMB!
Eventful Stuff
Sleeping in. Being home. Drinking hot coco with lots of marshmallows.
Wave of the Day
I had a few little (decent size) tucks. I would say one of those was my WOTD. Unfortunately there wasn't much opportunity to rip waves up and down, too fast. I should have taken my shortboard out and busted a few airs, but I thought the size was a tad smaller. Bummer.

Summary:
Dillon Beach, Marin
5'10" Quad Beauty Fish
7:30-10:00
5-6ft, sets 7-8ft
2+/5

Bomb diggidy!

Summary
Not a bad way to start the drive back home. Great conditions, decently fun swell, and a very eager Alex. Delightful morning. Beautiful, spectacular, quality waves, sick video. Oh yea, and I am free of obligations for a month. Life is good.
Waves
4-5ft for the most part, super fun, easy paddling. Sets generally had closeouty shape, though there were occasional gems. Sets were 6-7ft, some pushing bigger than that too. I passed Rincon on the drive back up---it was firing too. Workable shoulders, generally pretty fast. The tide was high and rising so not too many barrels, but there were a handful. Most closeouts. Mid-size set waves ended up the best---lots of people for not a whole lot of waves. Worth it though, for sure.
Crowds
Not crowded at first light, but it got crowded quickly. Probably a couple hundred out by the time I left. The tide was peaking too---too high, mushing the heck out of the waves. Sad.
Weather
Beautiful sunrise, beautiful morning. Absolutely amazing. Inspiring. Delightful. Exactly the refreshing, crisp, offshore-breeze morning I needed to energize me. That it did.
Forecast
Northern California is looking GOOD. Really good. I saw some pics of the last swell. It looked good---really good. This coming work-light week should be surf-filled. Stoked.
Eventful Stuff
Out before first light. Up at 5:00, home by 3:30 with a sweet two hour surf. Super pleasant morning, sick HD video. Quite enjoyable.
Wave of the Day
I've got this one video. I will post it, but it was a decent ride, a decent face-racing, a few cuts off the top, and a few wraps. Sick in 720p 60fps. Looks sweet.

Summary:
C-Street, Ventura
5'10" Quad Fish Beauty
6:30-8:30
4-5ft, 6-7ft sets
4/5

Off today

Summary
Kind of a bummer, but given the combo of high tide and intense crowds, I didn't have a whole lot of luck. I did have a few waves, but for the most part I just had big closeouts. The only "good" ride I had was my last wave.
Waves
Good size, pretty plopy shape. For the most part they were hard to get into, folded onto themselves and weren't too catchable. I'm exaggerating some probably, but that's how I felt. Some people were getting sick rides but I made a few poor decisions in the morning: 1) not go to the bathroom before I left school, then spending 15+minutes getting to, parking, and using the bathroom at a gas station 2) paddling out infront of the free-parking longboarding spot. I ended up paddling for twenty some minutes to get over to the point. Poor decision, both time and energy wise.
Crowds
Super crowded. Lots of people, multiple on every wave. Ended up sitting super far inside getting quick rides, just so I didn't have to deal with the masses.
Weather
Beautiful morning. Super crispy, cool offshores. SUCH potential for greatness, but the morning just didn't pan out.
Forecast
Looks good. Real good. Southern California looks to have some fun waves in its fortunes, same for Northern California.
Eventful Stuff
Up early. Drive. Surf. Drive. Nap. Lauren aeropuerto. Last final. Pack.
Wave of the Day
My last wave which unfortunately got cut off because the HD cam ran out of batteries. Bummer too. No more of that--- It was a chest plus high wave, sweet shape, pretty fast, intense drop with late bottom turn (because someone was right there), shot half up the face, saw the wave almost ready to close out so I cut up into the pealing wave and shot towards shore. Not "super" but it was fun and unexpected for the morning.

Summary:
C-Street, Ventura
5'10" Quad Fish Beauty
7:00-10:00
5-6, 7-8ft sets
2/5

Ridiculous video quality...

Summary
And way better waves than I thought. Seriously, makes (moderately fun) clean waves look INSANE. STOKED. So stoked.
Waves
For a late morning surf, the conditions were impressive. Shoulders all over the place, workable waves, loads of fun...even a few barrels. Bomb dig, can't argue with that.
Crowds
A few dozen out. Not crowded at all though. Scattered up and down the beach...no biggie.
Weather
SPECTACULAR, sunny, warm, almost windless. Beautiful day. Exactly what I needed.
Forecast
Looks good. Home is going to be great. Thursday is going to be great. Friday is going to be great. Super excited.
Eventful Stuff
HD cam is in. It is amazing. So amazing. Ridiculously sick.
Wave of the Day
So cool. I'll post a video of some of the waves I had. Slow motion makes everything sooooo sick. 60fps 720p. Crazy.

Summary:
Zuma, Malibu
5'10" Quad Fish
10:45-11:45
3-4ft (slightly plus) sets
3+/5

Cool beans

Summary
I had an absolute blast. Beautiful afternoon, good friends, fun waves, and lots and lots of kelp. Super fun session. Moderated a bit from yesterday, but still fast workable shoulders.
Waves
Decent size, 4-5ft for the most part. Easy paddle out, breaking about 75ft past the rock. Shoulders easily make able, drops pretty steep, really fun, but definitely mellow with only a handful of people sharing all the waves.
Crowds
Besides Eric and I there were no more than three out at any one time. No one else on shortboards or fish, so some guys getting mad long rides all the way in to shore. Pretty decent tier of surfers.
Weather
Sunny, beautiful, windless. Put simply, you could surf Zuma if you wanted to. That's how clean it was.
Forecast
Mediocre over the next few days, but still decent size. 
Eventful Stuff
Playing with the wrist camera with Eric. Pretty fun little toy. Too bad I broke the part for the board---HD inc =) There were only two or three others out at any one time. Not crowded, decent waves, a little mushy and a lot of kelp (low tide) but super workable, super fun. Perfect board. Eric was surfing my Southpoint---perfect boards for today, that's for sure.
Wave of the Day
My last wave---sweet drop right into the rock, two cutbacks. Taken all the way to shore (it mushed up a little bit after the rock, but it was steep enough to have a pretty sweet ride.

Summary:
Leo Carrillo, Malibu
5'10" Quad Fish
12:00-2:15
4-5ft with 6ft+sets
4-/5
Eric B.

Oh snap. Big waves, broken boards, broken cameras.

Summary
Big ass waves. Really really big. C-Street was a good 3-4ft bigger on sets than I had expected. HUGE. MACKING. Ridiculous currents. Pretty nasty all in all. Some people were ripping so hard it made an otherwise mediocre surf session pretty dang ridiculous. Leo was going off. Huge, breaking from 150-200ft outside of the rock (on normal mid-tides) for a heck of a long time. Broke the camera unfortunately...
Waves
HUGE. C-Street had great shape but was super intimidating. People ripping the f out of double overhead + waves.
Leo was much more manageable, still big but there's a big difference between Leo 10ft and C-Street 10-15ft...much more mellow, relaxing, still pretty intense paddle but SUPER fun waves. Sick rides, even a few little boosts...on my 7'6"...
Crowds
C-Street was crowded as can be. People coming from all over Southern California to surf C-Street, including a few dozen from OC/two counties plus south.
Leo was still crowded but under thirty five out, but plenty of waves and inside whitewater to keep most people busy at any one time.
Weather
Chilly offshores in the morning, light west winds in the afternoon. C-Street was as hollow as it gets. Leo wasn't hurt by the afternoon winds.
Forecast
Looks like there'll be waves for at least the next few days. Yay!
Eventful Stuff
My early morning paddle was CAKE. Two duckdives, out in easily ten foot not sets. Later on the current farther up the point f'ed me really really really hard. Took one hollow corner, got rocked, couldn't get back out. Got pushed literally all the way to the pier. On the way there I saw two guys with a broken board, including a Becker longboard. The surf was no joke today.
Also my leash wrapped around my camera at Leo on the first wave I *tried* to take. Snapped it at the base. Big bummer. Wrist cam it is for the foreseeable future.
Wave of the Day
Leo's waves were SO good. SO good. Pretty much half a dozen twenty second rides, sick shoulders with big drops and nice slices off the top. Too bad I broke the camera because I would have some sick video. Oh well.

Summary:
C-Street, Ventura
6'1" Al Merrick MX
6:45-9:15
9-10ft, 12-15ft sets
3/5

Leo Carrillo, Malibu
7'6" Al Merrick M13
11:45-2:15
6-8ft, 10ft+sets
4+/5

Some bomb freaking waves...

Summary
So much fun. Sunny, chilly, crisp, beautiful. No one out, plenty of waves to be out. Great afternoon!
Waves
Surprisingly good shape, surprisingly good size, surprisingly good fun. Generally waist to chest high, but some bigger sets for sure. Quite a few no-way-I-am-way-too-far-inside waves. Not bad because anything I could get was mine. Farthest inside every time yeaaaa!
Crowds
Three others out at any one time max. I was solo at high tide, a few more came off and on as the afternoon progressed.
Weather
Oh my god. Beautiful, way better than I could have hoped for. Hopefully indicative of tomorrow.
Forecast
Looks good. Looks BOMB for tomorrow. STOOOKEEED. Head high plus at C-Street. Maybe surf Rincon or something later too. So excited. SOOOO excited. Very very very very excited. After that we'll see, not too great of conditions but I'm sure I'll head out.
Eventful Stuff
Kooza Cirque du Soleil tomorrow. Very excited for that too. Should be an amazing day tomorrow. AMAZING.
Wave of the Day
I have it recorded I'm pretty sure. About thirty seconds, decent ride for relatively high tide, surfing the M13. Superr relaxing.

Summary:
Latigo Point, Malibu
7'6" M13
3:00-4:30
2-4ft with 4ft+sets
2+/5

Mellow

Summary
A calm, quiet, unexpectedly pleasant afternoon. Lots of waves, super fun rides, perfect conclusion to any day.
Waves
Lots, decent size, perfect tides. Waves were workable, wide open shoulders, even a few little closeout barrels.
Crowds
Not. There were three others, two max at any one time.
Weather
Beautiful! Sunny, warm, light WNW winds, but all said and done pretty much spectacular. Far more delightful than I wax expecting.
Forecast
NA
Eventful Stuff
Lucking out on super-fun, uncrowded waves in Malibu --- priceless.
Wave of the Day
I had a handful of 25+sec waves. A few recorded on the wrist cam.

Summary:
Latigo, Malibu
7'6" M13
2:00-4:00
3-4ft, bigger sets
3/5

Teeheehee

Summary
Fun little surf with Eric. Surprising size, enough power for loads of fun.
Waves
Some fast little corners. Eric and I were surfing pretty far up the point, we ended up finding a fun little peak, mostly rights, pretty fast and quite a few barreling corners.
Crowds
Not too many, but a few people ripping.
Weather
It was a little muggy early, but the sun ended up coming out just as the wind did, as we were leaving.
Forecast
NA
Eventful Stuff
A worthy day of surf. Pretty darn fun. Can't argue with that.
Wave of the Day
NA

Summary:
C-Street, Ventura
5'10" Quad Fish
7:00-11:00
3-4ft with a few 5fters
3/5
Eric B.

Hey-o!

Summary
Decent little afternoon surf. Quite a bit better than I expected or hoped. Quite entertaining session.
Waves
Mia was surfing my 7'6", the perfect board for today. Rocking it. Decent shoulders, a little mushy afternoon shape, but certainly enough to work with that I was having fun. The 5'10" worked just fine too.
Crowds
Less than half a dozen others out.
Weather
Pretty, otherwise unremarkable.
Forecast
Mediocre.
Eventful Stuff
Beautiful afternoon.
Wave of the Day
Nothing too notable, but there were a few sweet shoulders here and there.

Summary:
County Line
5'10" Southpoint (leashless)
3:00-4:30
1-3ft
2/5
Mia