Summary
I got owned a lot today. That said, I also got lots of barrels. I even got a few sick slow motion videos of that...sweet!
Waves
Good size, much better shape than yesterday, quite a lot of fun. Overall still very wally, but enough time for a drop (or side drop) and a slap at least. Other than that, quite frankly, all I got was barreled. Hard concept to deal with, but I guess I'm OK with it.
Crowds
A handful out, much fewer (though better conditions) than yesterday.
Weather
OK---the sun showed itself less than five minutes after I got out of the water.
Forecast
Looks GREAT. See yesterdays for more forecasting potential, but basically awesome ELSE (potentially) Monday and Tuesday. Christmas should be SPECTACULAR. Excited as heck.
Eventful Stuff
The weather turned crappy in the afternoon, south winds, lots of drizzle, and gross skies. Besides that just ripping waves, that's always eventful. Also I only have my quad fish and MX while I'm home for the next couple weeks...
Wave of the Day
BARREL. See the video I will attach (I'll actually do it this time...) There were about a half dozen rather comparable to this. Drop & shack.
Summary:
Dillon Beach, Marin
5'10" Quad Beauty Fish
7:15-9:45
4-5ft, 6ft sets
3+/5
Sunday, December 20, 2009
Now that's more like it
Labels:
3/5,
barreled like a mofo,
Dillon Beach,
fall,
legit surfing,
Norcal,
Quad Fish,
surfing
Subscribe to:
Post Comments (Atom)
No comments:
Post a Comment