Wednesday, December 9, 2009

Oh snap. Big waves, broken boards, broken cameras.

Summary
Big ass waves. Really really big. C-Street was a good 3-4ft bigger on sets than I had expected. HUGE. MACKING. Ridiculous currents. Pretty nasty all in all. Some people were ripping so hard it made an otherwise mediocre surf session pretty dang ridiculous. Leo was going off. Huge, breaking from 150-200ft outside of the rock (on normal mid-tides) for a heck of a long time. Broke the camera unfortunately...
Waves
HUGE. C-Street had great shape but was super intimidating. People ripping the f out of double overhead + waves.
Leo was much more manageable, still big but there's a big difference between Leo 10ft and C-Street 10-15ft...much more mellow, relaxing, still pretty intense paddle but SUPER fun waves. Sick rides, even a few little boosts...on my 7'6"...
Crowds
C-Street was crowded as can be. People coming from all over Southern California to surf C-Street, including a few dozen from OC/two counties plus south.
Leo was still crowded but under thirty five out, but plenty of waves and inside whitewater to keep most people busy at any one time.
Weather
Chilly offshores in the morning, light west winds in the afternoon. C-Street was as hollow as it gets. Leo wasn't hurt by the afternoon winds.
Forecast
Looks like there'll be waves for at least the next few days. Yay!
Eventful Stuff
My early morning paddle was CAKE. Two duckdives, out in easily ten foot not sets. Later on the current farther up the point f'ed me really really really hard. Took one hollow corner, got rocked, couldn't get back out. Got pushed literally all the way to the pier. On the way there I saw two guys with a broken board, including a Becker longboard. The surf was no joke today.
Also my leash wrapped around my camera at Leo on the first wave I *tried* to take. Snapped it at the base. Big bummer. Wrist cam it is for the foreseeable future.
Wave of the Day
Leo's waves were SO good. SO good. Pretty much half a dozen twenty second rides, sick shoulders with big drops and nice slices off the top. Too bad I broke the camera because I would have some sick video. Oh well.

Summary:
C-Street, Ventura
6'1" Al Merrick MX
6:45-9:15
9-10ft, 12-15ft sets
3/5

Leo Carrillo, Malibu
7'6" Al Merrick M13
11:45-2:15
6-8ft, 10ft+sets
4+/5

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