Summary
Overall the morning was full of intense offshores, big walls, hollow corners, and a somewhat painful paddle back out. Makes you appreciate either a big fast-paddle board or a small don't-get-pulled shortboard. In between, not quite so hot. I had a decent amount of corners, a few little barrels, but for the most part just a relaxing, chilly surf.
Waves
Pretty consistently shoulder to head high, with bigger waves occasionally rearing their heads. Sets were somewhat consistent, waves not so much workable as just big walls. One day the quality sandbars will magically appear and the actual surf will be delightful once again. One day.
Crowds
Quite a few for DB. Half a dozen out when I first paddled out, when the parking lot opened up about two dozen more came out. No issue for getting waves. A few people on shorter boards, but for the most part everyone was surfing logs, like usual.
Weather
Sunny, crisp, chilly. Delightful offshores making even the closeouts look bomb.
Forecast
Looks good. Real good. Smaller tomorrow, bigger all next week. Might have go go up to Doran on Christmas...we'll see. Smallest should be chest-shoulder high this week. Oh yea, and else Monday/Tuesday, should be offshores, good swell, good tides EVERY DAY THROUGH NEXT WEEKEND. BOMB!
Eventful Stuff
Sleeping in. Being home. Drinking hot coco with lots of marshmallows.
Wave of the Day
I had a few little (decent size) tucks. I would say one of those was my WOTD. Unfortunately there wasn't much opportunity to rip waves up and down, too fast. I should have taken my shortboard out and busted a few airs, but I thought the size was a tad smaller. Bummer.
Summary:
Dillon Beach, Marin
5'10" Quad Beauty Fish
7:30-10:00
5-6ft, sets 7-8ft
2+/5
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