Summary
I had an absolute blast. Beautiful afternoon, good friends, fun waves, and lots and lots of kelp. Super fun session. Moderated a bit from yesterday, but still fast workable shoulders.
Waves
Decent size, 4-5ft for the most part. Easy paddle out, breaking about 75ft past the rock. Shoulders easily make able, drops pretty steep, really fun, but definitely mellow with only a handful of people sharing all the waves.
Crowds
Besides Eric and I there were no more than three out at any one time. No one else on shortboards or fish, so some guys getting mad long rides all the way in to shore. Pretty decent tier of surfers.
Weather
Sunny, beautiful, windless. Put simply, you could surf Zuma if you wanted to. That's how clean it was.
Forecast
Mediocre over the next few days, but still decent size.
Eventful Stuff
Playing with the wrist camera with Eric. Pretty fun little toy. Too bad I broke the part for the board---HD inc =) There were only two or three others out at any one time. Not crowded, decent waves, a little mushy and a lot of kelp (low tide) but super workable, super fun. Perfect board. Eric was surfing my Southpoint---perfect boards for today, that's for sure.
Wave of the Day
My last wave---sweet drop right into the rock, two cutbacks. Taken all the way to shore (it mushed up a little bit after the rock, but it was steep enough to have a pretty sweet ride.
Summary:
Leo Carrillo, Malibu
5'10" Quad Fish
12:00-2:15
4-5ft with 6ft+sets
4-/5
Eric B.
Thursday, December 10, 2009
Cool beans
Labels:
4/5,
afternoon session,
friends,
Go Pro Cam,
good size waves,
legit surfing,
Leo Carrillo,
Malibu,
oh snap,
Quad Fish,
surfing
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