Summary
That's what I was hoping for. Not just hollow shoulders, but hollow shoulders mixed in with (very cold) ripable waves. Super fun, pretty punchy, very windswellesque. It's supposed to be 14-16sec groundswell, but the way it hits the sandbars it gives some quick, awesome shoulders. All in all, I was cold as could be, brisk offshores, 51degree water, and elusive (unfindable) booties...
Waves
Punchy as punchy can be. I was in the right place at the right time A LOT. Found quite a few good rides on the amazingly consistent surf. Quality. This is what DB is all about.
Crowds
Given today was supposed to be pretty crappy with onshores and weird swell, there were only like three other guys out. A handful pulled up to the bluffs but no one came out. That said, I left early so I'm sure people came after that.
Weather
Sunny, beautiful, but REALLY REALLY COLD. The coldest surf session I can remember since the one session last year with the crunchy sand. God I hope it's like this for the next two weeks...I would be so content...
Forecast
Looks delightful. Seriously, offshores every day for the next week, all day. That plus some serious swell coming in this weekend. I'm kind of concerned because it's going to be so perfect and pretty big, at least 6ft up to 12-13ft...
Eventful Stuff
The cold. The invisible booties.
Wave of the Day
Post the video of one of them...
Summary:
Dillon Beach, Marin
5'10" Quad Beauty Fish
7:15-8:20
3-5ft, slightly bigger sets
3+/5
Wednesday, December 23, 2009
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