Thursday, December 17, 2009

Off today

Summary
Kind of a bummer, but given the combo of high tide and intense crowds, I didn't have a whole lot of luck. I did have a few waves, but for the most part I just had big closeouts. The only "good" ride I had was my last wave.
Waves
Good size, pretty plopy shape. For the most part they were hard to get into, folded onto themselves and weren't too catchable. I'm exaggerating some probably, but that's how I felt. Some people were getting sick rides but I made a few poor decisions in the morning: 1) not go to the bathroom before I left school, then spending 15+minutes getting to, parking, and using the bathroom at a gas station 2) paddling out infront of the free-parking longboarding spot. I ended up paddling for twenty some minutes to get over to the point. Poor decision, both time and energy wise.
Crowds
Super crowded. Lots of people, multiple on every wave. Ended up sitting super far inside getting quick rides, just so I didn't have to deal with the masses.
Weather
Beautiful morning. Super crispy, cool offshores. SUCH potential for greatness, but the morning just didn't pan out.
Forecast
Looks good. Real good. Southern California looks to have some fun waves in its fortunes, same for Northern California.
Eventful Stuff
Up early. Drive. Surf. Drive. Nap. Lauren aeropuerto. Last final. Pack.
Wave of the Day
My last wave which unfortunately got cut off because the HD cam ran out of batteries. Bummer too. No more of that--- It was a chest plus high wave, sweet shape, pretty fast, intense drop with late bottom turn (because someone was right there), shot half up the face, saw the wave almost ready to close out so I cut up into the pealing wave and shot towards shore. Not "super" but it was fun and unexpected for the morning.

Summary:
C-Street, Ventura
5'10" Quad Fish Beauty
7:00-10:00
5-6, 7-8ft sets
2/5

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