Super Hollow

Summary

Waves

Crowds

Weather

Forecast

Eventful Stuff

Wave of the Day


Summary:
Big Dume, Malibu
5'10" Quad Fish
3:00-5:30PM
2-4ft, 5ft sets
3+/5

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Crowds

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Eventful Stuff

Wave of the Day


Summary:
Surfrider 1st Point, Malibu
7'6" Al Merrick M13
11:45-12:45
1-2ft. 3ft+ sets
1+/5


Eric, Caroline

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Crowds

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Wave of the Day


Summary:
Westward, Malibu
5'10" Quad Beauty
7:00-8:30AM
4-5ft, 6ft+ sets
3/5
Andrew, Travis

Energy level = DRAINED

Summary
I am now greatly fatigued. It was worth it in every respect. Rincon raped me really really hard. Big Dume got schooled pretty hardcore though.
Waves
Rincon was solid overhead, sets easily two or three foot overhead, some probably double plus. Huge, powerful, NASTY current. That was the killer. I got rocked bad. I don't think I had a single good wave. I redeemed myself at Dume, however, in much more manageable chest-head high waves. Those were mighty fun. Rippable corners, not too fast but not too mushy either. A few punchy guys hidden in there too...
Crowds
Neither was crowded, though both had other people out. No issue.
Weather
BEAUTIFUL. Rincon had offshores early, though they were probably a bit more crossy. Dume was onshore but it wasn't enough to really hamper shape (beyond mush it up a little...bummer)
Forecast
Looks good all week. A little rain on Tuesday, but nothing too painful besides that...
Eventful Stuff
4x4 at In-N-Out between SB and Malibu plus salt water = painful. Never. NEVER do it again. Horrible idea. Oh, and the current at Rincon f'ed me really really hard. I'm OK with it, and if I weren't so tired from lack of sleep I would probably be OK I basically didn't really surf Rincon, just paddled. Kind of a bummer. That said, the first wave I paddled for at Dume I caught, and it made me VERY happy.
Wave of the Day
Sick corners from well outside at Dume. Two wraps, nice little face to play with. Super fun. I was happy.

Summary:
Rincon Point
5'10" Quad Beauty
8:30-9:45AM
7-8ft, 10ft sets
1/5 (fatigue + current killed me)
Sam, Andrew, Travis


Big Dume
5'10" Quad Beauty
3:00-4:45PM
4-6ft, slightly bigger on sets
4/5
Andrew, Travis

Much bigger and a fair bit better than I had expected

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Crowds

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Eventful Stuff

Wave of the Day


Summary:
Zuma s9/10, Malibu
5'10" Southpoint Fish
10:30-11:30
3-4ft, some bigger sets mixed in
2/5

Amazingly relaxing

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Crowds

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Wave of the Day


Summary:
Staircase, Malibu
5'10" Quad Beauty Fish
2:30-3:30PM
2-3ft, 4ft+ sets
2/5
Steve, Mia, Eric, Caroline

SOLID afternoon fun!

Summary
Uhm, yes. Sick sick sick surf. Afternoon sessions that turn out well bring me great joy. Great joy was brought. It was good.
Waves
Decent size, fun drops, easy paddle, workable corners. All in all, quite a delightful experience. A little bit of everything for everyone.
Crowds
Not. There were a handful out, but given the delightful Friday afternoon conditions, there should have been a lot more. It was good.
Weather
A little hazy, but all in all good conditions. Can't argue with the beauty of afternoon sun and light offshore winds.
Forecast
Looks OK for the weekend, then HORRIBLE next week. So sad. Rainy, windy, cloudy, generally crappy weather. Boo!
Eventful Stuff
Other than a sick surf sesh? Not too much. No one tried to kill me, I didn't drop in on anyone, no one stole my waves. A mellow afternoon. PERFECTION.
Wave of the Day
There was a sick (right...obviously) that came up out of nowhere at the point as I was paddling over to the far inside where Billy was. It popped up, I was in the right spot, got a sick ride all the way to the beach break. Not super powerful but it was fun, a couple fun little corners.

Summary:
County Line, Malibu
5'10" Quad Beauty Fish
12:30-3:15
3-5ft
4/5
Steve, Billy

Today is a sad day

Summary
While what's going on in Haiti is bad, so is breaking beautiful, like-new (almost) Merrick's in half. Very sad day. Zuma was not worthy of claiming my board...curses on you! That said, I did redeem myself at Leo. Some sick drops there, crazy rides. Super fun. Very comparable to yesterday but with a few more people out and more consistent sets.
Waves
Zuma was hollow, and heavy for being 4-5ft. Pretty rough paddle out honestly, that was a 250ft-down-the-beach process. I had a few little corners, one or two coverups/closeouts. NOT worthy of claiming my board...at all. Leo was a solid shoulder-head high, bigger sets, giant, lots of closeouts, workable corners. A little slow, but you pick the right wave and the drops are sick. So worth it.
Crowds
Not. Two guys with me at Zuma (and a few scattered up and down the beach). Tenish out at Leo, plus or minus, depending how many people were stuck inside at any one point.
Weather
Offshores galore. Stormy a bit, little roughish gray skies, but beautiful.
Forecast
Looks small-ish for the weekend, but picks up ALL next week. Might be a little too big in fact, we'll see. Northern California is calling for 3-4x overhead waves, soo...maybe Malibu will be breaking? =)
Eventful Stuff
Broken board. Super pissed. If I didn't ONLY use my MX in good conditions, then maybe I wouldn't be so pissed, but I haven't used it all that much. Oh man I love that board to death. Zuma Gods, thank you for not breaking my neck.
Wave of the Day
Sick drop at Leo, super late right into the rock, but I make it and skirt up and down the offshore-driven face all the way inside. Pretty mellow for how sick the ride was, honestly. And some guy there was like "That was the sickest drop I've seen anyone make today." A rarity down here, but alwalys pleasant =)

Summary:
Zuma, Malibu
6'1" Al Merrick MX


7:00-7:45AM
4-5ft
1/5 (broken board ----)

Leo Carrillo, Malibu
5'10" Quad Beauty Fish
8:15-10:00
5-6ft sets
3/5

Oh snap.

Summary
Sweet. Great day. Awesome session. Life is good.
Waves
Good. Fun. Sweet. A little mushy, but that's to be expected given the fatty tide. Workable corners if you pick the right drops. I think I chose wisely. I was rewarded. FUN.
Crowds
Not. A handful of kids came out messing around. Other than that there were about five different guys off and on, none of them doing a whole lot of anything. Not an issue at all.
Weather
Clearing overcast. It was pretty iffy early on, a bit of rain before we left and what not. It cleared up quick though, nice little sunny, white-cloud splotch. Light winds, a tad offshore.
Forecast
Big. Iffy tomorrow, but the rest of the week has some good potential.
Eventful Stuff
Eric and I were tearing it up. The other people there were pretty much sitting there not doing a whole lot of anything. Kinda sad, but we made up for it. Every set wave was torn to shreds and then tossed around hard. It was sweet.
Oh, that and fatty high tide.
Wave of the Day
Holy smokes. I had one so-sick wave. Eric was in the perfect spot but he didn't go for it for some strange reason. I turn around and snag it. Sick drop, pump over/through the seaweed section, two wraps, about five cutbacks, and a heck of a long paddle back out. It was sick, probably the best Leo wave I've caught on my fish. After that about half a dozen people watching paddled out. Eric was like, "WTF did I not get that wave for? It was SO good." Stoked.

Summary:
Leo Carrillo, Malibu
5'10" Quad Beauty Fish
9:00-11:00
4ft, 5-6ft sets
3+/5
Eric

That's more like it...

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Eventful Stuff

Wave of the Day


Summary:
County Line, Malibu
5'10" Quad Beauty Fish
7:30-9:30
3-4ft, 5ft sets
3/5

Zuma, Malibu
5'10" Quad Beauty Fish
4:00PM-5:30PM
4-5ft drainers
1+/5

Not feeling it...

Summary
Meh. The surf had potential but I didn't. I was just off today. Pretty much a tool out there. I really didn't get any super waves. Only a handful of smack-the-face-before-the-closeouts. Bleh. Oh well, I tried. Getting back into the swing of things...
Waves
Surprisingly small compared to yesterday. Some head high sets for sure, but much more manageable, less consistent, arguably more fun (though I didn't get too many of those unfortunately...) For the amount of people out there, not really a whole lot of ripped-up waves. I would say it LOOKED a lot better than it actually was. Don't get me wrong, it was fun, just not that good.
Crowds
Not. There were thirty out at the point at 8. Not crowded at all. I think the high tide actually made it more surfable.
Weather
BEAUTIFUL. Really, warm, delightfully pleasant, nice little offshore breeze. Can't argue with that. It's Southern California in the winter time...right?
Forecast
Some potential. Huge swell midweek. Might be a Malibu session if it doesn't rain...going to be 10ft+ from County north, so there should be enough rap to make it fun. We'll see.
Eventful Stuff
First day back to school. Can't argue with the swell though, as much as anytime this past semester. A much better start than last winter's return...
Wave of the Day
I had a handful of fun ones. There were a few snaps and a few launch-me-way-the-f-up-there bails. I just wasn't feeling it today though. Oh well.

Summary:
County Line, Malibu
5'10" Quad Beauty Fish
8:00-10:00
3-5ft, some bigger sets
2/5

...more paddling

Summary
But I'm tired and want to go to sleep. Jusqu'a demain
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Eventful Stuff

Wave of the Day


Summary:
County Line, Malibu
5'10" Quad Beauty Fish
1:30-3:30PM
6ft. 7-8ft sets
2+/5

BURNING ARMS

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Wave of the Day


Summary:
Dillon Beach, Marin
5'10" Quad Beauty Fish
8:00-9:30
7-9ft, 12ft sets
2/5

Summary
My last day of work. Can't do that without surfing. The surf itself was marginal. Stiff offshores and still pretty mediocre leftover swell. I no-camed it, and that was a good choice. The surf was rather gutless. Sad day.
Waves
Gutless, weak. That said, there was some size but no oomph to it. Drop, turn, rocked. Nothing special.
Crowds
A surprising number of people out, quite frankly. A handful of kids (like 8 of them) paddled out about twenty minutes after me. Good luck shortboarding waves I couldn't catch on my fish...
Weather
Overcast, pretty foggy (though clear at sea level...) Offshores.
Forecast
Big. Unruly. Exciting.
Eventful Stuff
Through and through cold. The water, the wind, the air.
Wave of the Day
I can't even remember. There were a handful of drop-into-barrels. Meh.

Summary:
Dillon Beach, Marin
5'10" Quad Beauty Fish
7:30-8:30AM
 4-5ft
1+/5

Smallest surf all winter...

Summary
Meh. Some potential, especially early on. Ended quick though, winds shifted too South and started to mush up the swell. I had fun initially, then the swell completely died. Bummer.
Waves
There were a few fun ones early. Not too workable but one turn or two...
Crowds
Not. A few others out but I would hardly consider it crowded.
Weather
BEAUTIFUL sunrise, but otherwise unremarkable morning. Overcast, clouds burning off a little more from the South than usual, so the offshores were pretty crossy, but too strong and so they kind of blew out the waves by 8:10.
Forecast
Meh. Small. Then it gets good. This weekend will be gooooood.
Eventful Stuff
Nothing.
Wave of the Day
Meh. Not really worth mentioning.

Summary:
Dillon Beach, Marin
5'10" Quad Beauty Fish
7:30-8:30AM
2-3ft+
1+/5

How often is it that my afternoon sesh is better than the morn?

Summary
The tide was right. The afternoon rocked the morn. Both had a handful of fun waves, but the afternoon was MUCH more consistent, a fair bit bigger, and overall much more surfing was happening. Oh, and the sun was out. Bomb.
Waves
The waves were decent, some pretty punchy waves mixed in with tons of mushballs. The afternoon was the opposite. Tons of steep, super punchy waves, mixed in with the occasional mushy closeout. MUCH more rippable in the afternoon.
Crowds
The morning actually ended up getting pretty crowded, probably almost forty out. Pretty crazy given the fact the surf was pretty mediocre. In the afternoon only a handful were out, none when I first paddled out, two right after, and two more later.
Weather
SPECTACULAR day. Mid-high clouds in the morning, clear as clear can be in the afternoon.
Forecast
Looks promising...eventually. The swell dies after today, but the conditions continue.
Eventful Stuff
Sweet, punchy, barrel-ridden afternoon. One other guy ripping. Always fun to see that.
Wave of the Day
Afternoon barrel for sure. Sick, had me stoked. Drop right into a nice little cover up. Of course I don't make it out. Need a big point break for that...

Summary:
Dillon Beach, Marin
5'10" Quad Fish
8:00-9:30
3-4ft+
2/5

Dillon Beach, Marin
5'10" Quad Fish
3:00-4:30
3-5ft+
3+/5

Such potential...

Summary
I awoke to clear skies and offshore winds. I didn't even go upstairs to look at the surf, just grabbed a banana, put on my suit, and booked it to the beach. The paddle out was pretty brutal, but honestly not THAT bad given the size. It took about 20 mins from toes-in-the-water to sitting-in-a-lineup. After that, five minutes to notice the current had dragged me a quarter mile up the beach, five minutes of fighting the current, and ten minutes paddling back in. Pretty disappointing quite frankly. I paddled out too close to the beach break current, had I been 200 feet farther I probably would have been able to get out to the pit easy. Bummer.
Waves
Good size, mediocre shape. The little beachbreak lineup I was sitting at was easily 8ft+ on the two sets that came through, but looking through the binoculars as the tide peaked at noon showed some pretty clear 10-12ft peelers / barrels out at the pit. A few guys out getting worked pretty hard.
Crowds
Two were out at the pit when I paddled out. More came later when the tide was peaking (and as such provided a much more manageable paddle...)
Weather
Sunny, beautiful. Then it got foggy and the current f'ed me.
Forecast
Looks good. Tomorrow should be more managable (read: 4-6ft, 7ft sets...) as should the rest of the week until Friday or Saturday. Possibly a Carmel surf on the road down. We'll see...
Eventful Stuff
The current f'ed me.
Wave of the Day
Honestly, I paddled for the sets that came, but the waves I went for didn't look too promising so I didn't drop in on any of them, so I didn't actually do any surfing today.

Summary:
Dillon Beach, Marin
5'10" Quad Beauty Fish
7:45-8:30
6-8ft, 12ft+ on sets / the Pit
1/5

A sigh of relief...

Summary
Not the best shape, not the most workable shoulders, definitely a little lumpy, definitely imperfect, but certainly entertaining and fun. The same sandbar as yesterday was working, and perhaps not firing like it was, certainly giving pretty good rides with a little bit of everything for everyone. That said, it ended up overpowering my stamina level after one wave and I called it quits. That's why you don't pump to the inside unless you're really feeling optimistic about the paddle...
Waves
Pretty good size and (thankfully) a little bit inconsistent. Getting out wasn't all that bad, though there wasn't really any good place to paddle out. The waves definitely had enough oomph to them that if you got on it at the right place you could work it pretty decently. Once you were past the sandbar it would lump up and fade pretty quick, but a few well placed pumps could glide you to the inside where it would wall up and give you a nice little snap. Pretty fun.
Crowds
About twenty five between the two good sandbars, but more came (and moved to the one further South) after/as I was leaving. At the peak of the day there were probably about 30 people scattered there (binoculars...)
Weather
Overcast and a little iffy, the fog unsure of if it wanted to back off or stay a pest. A couple of clear skies moments though.
Forecast
Looks good. WTF offshores, thank you!
Eventful Stuff
Happy New Year! I slept in a bit...it was sweet.
Wave of the Day
I had a few super fun rights which held up pretty well all through the inside. Probably two or three turns/cuts off the top and a little snap at the end. Delightful.

Summary:
Dillon Beach, Marin
5'10" Quad Beauty Fish
8:00-9:30
5-6ft, 7-8ft sets
3/5