Summary
I am now greatly fatigued. It was worth it in every respect. Rincon raped me really really hard. Big Dume got schooled pretty hardcore though.
Waves
Rincon was solid overhead, sets easily two or three foot overhead, some probably double plus. Huge, powerful, NASTY current. That was the killer. I got rocked bad. I don't think I had a single good wave. I redeemed myself at Dume, however, in much more manageable chest-head high waves. Those were mighty fun. Rippable corners, not too fast but not too mushy either. A few punchy guys hidden in there too...
Crowds
Neither was crowded, though both had other people out. No issue.
Weather
BEAUTIFUL. Rincon had offshores early, though they were probably a bit more crossy. Dume was onshore but it wasn't enough to really hamper shape (beyond mush it up a little...bummer)
Forecast
Looks good all week. A little rain on Tuesday, but nothing too painful besides that...
Eventful Stuff
4x4 at In-N-Out between SB and Malibu plus salt water = painful. Never. NEVER do it again. Horrible idea. Oh, and the current at Rincon f'ed me really really hard. I'm OK with it, and if I weren't so tired from lack of sleep I would probably be OK I basically didn't really surf Rincon, just paddled. Kind of a bummer. That said, the first wave I paddled for at Dume I caught, and it made me VERY happy.
Wave of the Day
Sick corners from well outside at Dume. Two wraps, nice little face to play with. Super fun. I was happy.
Summary:
Rincon Point
5'10" Quad Beauty
8:30-9:45AM
7-8ft, 10ft sets
1/5 (fatigue + current killed me)
Sam, Andrew, Travis
Big Dume
5'10" Quad Beauty
3:00-4:45PM
4-6ft, slightly bigger on sets
4/5
Andrew, Travis
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