Saturday, January 2, 2010

Such potential...

Summary
I awoke to clear skies and offshore winds. I didn't even go upstairs to look at the surf, just grabbed a banana, put on my suit, and booked it to the beach. The paddle out was pretty brutal, but honestly not THAT bad given the size. It took about 20 mins from toes-in-the-water to sitting-in-a-lineup. After that, five minutes to notice the current had dragged me a quarter mile up the beach, five minutes of fighting the current, and ten minutes paddling back in. Pretty disappointing quite frankly. I paddled out too close to the beach break current, had I been 200 feet farther I probably would have been able to get out to the pit easy. Bummer.
Waves
Good size, mediocre shape. The little beachbreak lineup I was sitting at was easily 8ft+ on the two sets that came through, but looking through the binoculars as the tide peaked at noon showed some pretty clear 10-12ft peelers / barrels out at the pit. A few guys out getting worked pretty hard.
Crowds
Two were out at the pit when I paddled out. More came later when the tide was peaking (and as such provided a much more manageable paddle...)
Weather
Sunny, beautiful. Then it got foggy and the current f'ed me.
Forecast
Looks good. Tomorrow should be more managable (read: 4-6ft, 7ft sets...) as should the rest of the week until Friday or Saturday. Possibly a Carmel surf on the road down. We'll see...
Eventful Stuff
The current f'ed me.
Wave of the Day
Honestly, I paddled for the sets that came, but the waves I went for didn't look too promising so I didn't drop in on any of them, so I didn't actually do any surfing today.

Summary:
Dillon Beach, Marin
5'10" Quad Beauty Fish
7:45-8:30
6-8ft, 12ft+ on sets / the Pit
1/5

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