Summary
While what's going on in Haiti is bad, so is breaking beautiful, like-new (almost) Merrick's in half. Very sad day. Zuma was not worthy of claiming my board...curses on you! That said, I did redeem myself at Leo. Some sick drops there, crazy rides. Super fun. Very comparable to yesterday but with a few more people out and more consistent sets.
Waves
Zuma was hollow, and heavy for being 4-5ft. Pretty rough paddle out honestly, that was a 250ft-down-the-beach process. I had a few little corners, one or two coverups/closeouts. NOT worthy of claiming my board...at all. Leo was a solid shoulder-head high, bigger sets, giant, lots of closeouts, workable corners. A little slow, but you pick the right wave and the drops are sick. So worth it.
Crowds
Not. Two guys with me at Zuma (and a few scattered up and down the beach). Tenish out at Leo, plus or minus, depending how many people were stuck inside at any one point.
Weather
Offshores galore. Stormy a bit, little roughish gray skies, but beautiful.
Forecast
Looks small-ish for the weekend, but picks up ALL next week. Might be a little too big in fact, we'll see. Northern California is calling for 3-4x overhead waves, soo...maybe Malibu will be breaking? =)
Eventful Stuff
Broken board. Super pissed. If I didn't ONLY use my MX in good conditions, then maybe I wouldn't be so pissed, but I haven't used it all that much. Oh man I love that board to death. Zuma Gods, thank you for not breaking my neck.
Wave of the Day
Sick drop at Leo, super late right into the rock, but I make it and skirt up and down the offshore-driven face all the way inside. Pretty mellow for how sick the ride was, honestly. And some guy there was like "That was the sickest drop I've seen anyone make today." A rarity down here, but alwalys pleasant =)
Summary:
Zuma, Malibu
6'1" Al Merrick MX
7:00-7:45AM
4-5ft
1/5 (broken board ----)
Leo Carrillo, Malibu
5'10" Quad Beauty Fish
8:15-10:00
5-6ft sets
3/5
Thursday, January 14, 2010
Today is a sad day
Labels:
3/5,
broken board,
Leo Carrillo,
offshore winds,
Socal,
surfing,
winter,
Zuma
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