Summary
Even though I went for a late morning surf, and the tide was maxed out, I was having a blast. I got my three sweet waves and decided to call it quits. Lots of work to do, I had no camera, the ultra-high tide was shutting it down, and I was pretty tired. All in all, a worthwhile morning. The afternoon was fun too.
Waves
Amazing shape in the morning. Quite frankly I was amazed. Tons of rights, a handful of lefts, all with wide open shoulders, enough for wraps, cuts, slaps, wiggles, waggles, and tons of popping up, down, all around. Perfect board for today for sure. I had a blast. The afternoon was a little blown out and closeouty shape, but there were some decent sets rolling through.
Crowds
Both in the morning and afternoon. Apparently there is more swell than I thought there was going to be---ended up to be moderate crowds at both Zuma and County. Zuma was full of (ripping) little kids. County of typical valley folk.
Weather
Overcast, a little chilly, cross shore breeze in the morning. The afternoon was still a little breezy, but sunny and quite warm. Lots of folks trunking it, I used my spring suit.
Forecast
Looks like fun. Waves for the next week! Yay!
Eventful Stuff
First time I've gone surfing with Brian. I've been out with him before, but first time I went with him. He rips, and he's a lot of fun to go out with.
Wave of the Day
Zuma wave for sure. Sweet drop, super sharp bottom turn, slap the top of the wave, down the face, bottom turn super sharp almost-fall-off-the-board cutback, race the face, wraparound, straightshot, walls up with a little snap at the end. It made me very happy.
Summary:
Zuma, Malibu
5'10" Quad Fish
7:00-8:45AM
4ft+sets
3/5
County Line
5'10" Quad Fish
11:45-1:00PM
2-4ft sets
2/5
Eric B., Brian
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