Friday, October 16, 2009

Ridic barrels at Westward...

Summary
Put simply, there was some pretty darn fun surf today. Lots of barrels, lots of shoulders, beautiful fun to be had both morning and afternoon. Can't argue with that.
Waves
Westwards was steep. Not big, but moderate sized fun. Mix of rights and lefts. The lefts were fast barrels, the rights generally had better, somewhat workable shoulders. Staircase was a mix of rights and lefts, much slower takeoffs, a little mushy but fun nonetheless. Workable on all fronts.
Crowds
Spongers at Westward. No one taking it too seriously, everyone out having fun. A handful at Staircase too, mostly just really bugger kids who wouldn't be quiet (or stop snaking...)
Weather
Beautiful. Sunny, warm, spring suit afternoon. Delightful weather all around. I love it. 
Forecast
Looks OK. Tomorrow should be OK, not great, after that the swell dies down a fair bit through next week. There will be more as there are a bunch of NPAC storms so shouldn't be flat anytime through the end of October.
Eventful Stuff
Stitches are no issue. I followed the rules and took 48hours off. No infection, they look good. Shouldn't be too bad of a scar. SICKKK barrels at Westward. So much fun, oh my god...
Wave of the Day
For Westwards wave, the barrel in the below video.

Summary:
Westwards, Malibu
5'10" Quad Fish
7:00-8:45AM
4ft+sets
3/5

Staircase, Malibu
5'10" Quad Fish
3:00PM-6:00PM
3-4ft+sets
3/5
Mia & Basil

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