Summary
Really though. More fun than yesterday. Faced with the same limitations though---inconsistent sets. All the people on shore see you ripping these waves and are like, "I should go out there." So it ends up getting crowded, even though there aren't that many waves. Overall quite fun, certainly worth it.
Waves
Were pretty good shape. A bit steeper, though a touch smaller than yesterday. Even better, more open, more workable shoulders. Nothing oh-my-god spectacular, but lots of fun ones, quite a few decent turns in. Can't argue with that. The weeks of "no swell" in Southern California continue... Started out OK, tide was rising, got pretty weak for a bit, then I moved a little closer to 2nd and Surfrider started going off. Became much more consistent (at least for a bit) with tons of waves to be had. Steep drops, a few little barrels, quite a few sweet turns. I think I'm going to put the FCS plug sticky on my shortboard...
Crowds
A tad less crowded than yesterday, although arguably much better. Probably 2-3 dozen total out 2nd/3rd, mostly by 2nd as the tides/size wasn't right for 3rd.
Weather
Mediocre. Beautiful sunrise, sweet lighting. All in all it was chilly, some pretty stiff offshores (hard life right?), and a little texture on the ocean (offshores again...)
Forecast
Looks good. I am going every day in October so it better be good. I don't like wasting my time =)
Eventful Stuff
Nope, no one wanted to go with me today. Their loss. Sweet session. Sweet session indeed.
Wave of the Day
Too many to think off. Really though, I probably had at least a dozen really fun rights, multiple turns, a few little barrels too. Can't argue with that. Steep drops even though the size wasn't much. The waves would jack up just before they'd start to break. Lots of fun.
Summary:
Surfrider 2/3, Malibu
5'10" Quad Beauty
6:45-9:45
3-4ft, bigger on the (somewhat) inconsistent sets
3/5
Subscribe to:
Post Comments (Atom)
No comments:
Post a Comment