Friday, October 9, 2009

Even more waves...

Summary
Quite surprisingly, the October swell continues. I know this is not just my good attitude because there were probably at least a hundred others out today. All the forecasts I was looking at looked mediocre at best. Not saying it was great, but there were some pretty fun, punchy little waves. Most shoulders either walled up and barreled for half a second on the inside, or there was enough room for two or three turns. Fun.
Waves
Decent size, shape, consistency. Not great, but workable. I had low expectations so I didn't even bring my cam. I've decided I'm just going to leave it in the car from now on because every time I don't bring it I wish I had.
Crowds
Around tower 9 there were about two or three dozen out, off and on. Over the course of the session probably 50 or so total. Up and down the beach there were people scattered everywhere. Westwards didn't look like it was working though.
Weather
A little chilly, offshores, slightly overcast with the sun peeking through. Good conditions for surfing, although I wish I could sport the spring suit this early still...
Forecast
Meh for the weekend. Sunday looks OK, the rest of next week should be at least 3ft, then bigger as we head towards midterms / next weekend. I am quite hopeful that this month will prove to be quite worthy of an every-day-I-will-surf attitude. Yay!
Eventful Stuff
Disneyland. I'm pretty sure I saw some kind of big fish out in the ocean. I saw a splash and I heard a couple other people talking about it. Probably just a porpoise jumping up but I don't know for sure. Just psyching myself out because of the whole sunset shark-breaching sequence. Scary.
Wave of the Day
Once again, nothing spectacular. There were a few really sweet drops that I actually made (thank you quad fins), both rights, one walled up, did a half cutback off the top, adjusted, and got a nice 3/4sec barrel. The second was a slow-ish Zuma wave, almost chest high, sweet drop, cutback, wrap, cutback, wrap, wave dies. Lots of other fun ones too though.

Summary:
Zuma S9-10, Malibu
5'10" Quad Beauty
7:00-9:00
3ft+ sets
2+/5

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