Summary
If only Westward were as good as County today...there just wasn't enough swell for it to break right. I need me some barreled video!
Waves
Pretty decent (vetoing Surfrider session)...quality shape, decent size. Overall tons of fun. Workable shoulders, lots of turns, cuts, snaps, even a few little boosts. Mmm mmm delicious.
Crowds
Not too bad. Certainly quite a few out, but I have learned to deal. I'm pretty aggressive (but nice) in the lineup, not afraid to paddle for waves I think I can get. I can get most of them too, so it works out pretty well.
Weather
Spectacular. Beautiful. Light winds.
Forecast
Good!!!
Eventful Stuff
Surfing the point, what a blast! Very decent waves today! Nothing exciting however.
Wave of the Day
One of the waves I was like, "Nah, I don't need to try to video this wave it's going to be mediocre."
Nice steep drop, pop off the bottom, sharpish cut off the top, bottom turn, adjust, half second barrel closeout. There were tons of other fun waves, but getting barreled (even if it's small/don't make it out) is just so much cooler...
Summary:
County Line
5'10" Quad Fish
8:00-10:15
3-5ft sets
3/5
Surfrider 2nd, Malibu
5'10" Quad Fish
4:30-5:30
A FEW 3ft sets\
1/5
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