Summary
I heard rumors about them from yesterday. Where the heck are they? I didn't see any! I did see a few sweet shacks, but maybe 1/5 people out there got a decent coverup. Even though my surfing was crap today, I was one of those 5. I have to say, getting barreled on a fish is a bit harder...so fast. No complaining from me though =)
Waves
Bleh. I thought it would be a lot better. Apparently the swell doesn't fill in til this afternoon, and tomorrow is when it's going to be good. Waist high on average, with some chest high sets, occasionally bigger (depending on the temperament of the ocean...) Fast shape, pretty typical Zuma. Not weak, but too fast. Fun but lacking.
Crowds
A pretty hefty crowd out, quite a few more than I was expecting. Westwards should be worthwhile tomorrow, bigger swell and smaller crowds.
Weather
Beautiful, spectacular, inspiring morning.
Forecast
Looks gooodddd. Weekend should be fun, plenty of west to keep it peaky!
Eventful Stuff
Nathan. Bumped my nose/upper lip on my board, not too bad (no break...) but certainly enough to make me uncomfortable. =(
Wave of the Day
The ONE good wave I didn't record. Slow drop, bottom turn, cut off the top, see the wave walling up, so I adjust perfectly, duck into the barrel, about 3/4 of a second and it continues into a shoulder, fades from there. Pleasant surprise. But...the camera was off.
Summary:
Zuma s9-11, Malibu
5'10" Quad Fish
6:25-9:00
3-4ft sets
2/5
Vortech, Billy
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