Summary
So my surf every day this month is now f'ed up. Thanks, face, for smashing into my board. Much appreciated. That said, this morning was surf filled. Stormy, but waves were had.
Waves
Crappy. Pretty bad shape, pretty sucky drops, pretty lumpy. I know my surfing was off. No biggie, but it certainly makes me sad. That and they owned me.
Crowds
There were about five others out, pretty much all ripping way more than me. I was just off I guess.
Weather
Overcast, rainy, ESE winds (cross), generally dismal. Unfortunately not inspiring. I should have just taken the day off...my loss.
Forecast
Looks good. Too bad I'm pretty trashed...the whole gash in the face and all.
Eventful Stuff
Slamming my head into my board really really really hard. Basically the end of a wave I jump off my board, and go to land on it, but my hand slips and the board smacks me in the jaw REALLY hard. By the time I get back to the car my board is covered in blood. So is one of my nice Al Mer shirts...boo
Wave of the Day
The smack-me-in-the-face wave. Surprisingly decent, 4 1/2ft wave, fun drop, slap the face, race it, starts slowing down so I kick out, board smacks me in the face. Wish my best wave never happened... oh well.
Summary:
County Line, Malibu
5'10" Quad Fish
7:00-8:45
4ft, 5ft+set
1+/5
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