Saturday, September 12, 2009

Step Forward Day

Summary
I guess there is a lot going on in Malibu right now. Lanes closed for triathalons in the summer, masses of flags, motorcycle rallys, buttloads of busses, it's a crazy happening place. Not bad for 15,000 people. Oh, there's some waves too. Not a lot, not great, but there's a few.
Waves
Well, the world made it rough on any surfer today for parking. Pretty much none was free even at 6AM. Boo on that. I couldn't park at Zuma so I had to park over at Westwards. The tide was pretty fatty to there was some massive back wash. That and chilly overcast weather made my non-suited sesh pretty chilly. The waves were decent size and power, but very closeouty shorepound style. Yuck.
Crowds
No comment.
Weather
Overcast, chilly, variable winds, pretty weak overall. Today will not be hot, that I could have guessed and do now know.
Forecast
Looks good! I like waves. There will be waves tomorrow, the day after, and maybe even the day after that.
Eventful Stuff
Malibu. Step forward day. Busyness in every respect.
Wave of the Day
Well, since I pretty much only had one wave, that would be it. It was a chest-shoulder high surprise. Out of the blue it pops up, I paddle for it, make the drop, do a gradual veer left bottom turn across the whole of the drop, until I look left and see that it's going to rape me (and I'm surfing without a leash) so I cut up the face and bail. I make it and think, thank God that didn't grab me and spit me to shore...that's no fun.

Summary:
Zuma (by Westwards)
5'10" Southpoint
6:05-7:00
3-4ft w/ bigger (closeout) sets
1+/5

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