Summary
My head still hurts. Filled with gooey bacteria. Mmmm mmm delicious. But really, it sucks and I'm kind of mad. I can't imagine it having been my board whack me in the face, it must have been a rock. Boo on that. That aside, the session was rather spectacular. Fun waves on all fronts.
Waves
Decent size, decent shape, decent all around. A little chilly and slightly overcast, but it cleared up enough to be an (overall) decent little day. Enough time on most faces for a few moves. Nothing like "oh my God wtf look at how spectacular that wave was!" But more like, "Oh man that was a pretty fun wave." Modest fun. Waist-shoulder high waves, mostly on the lowish end of that spectrum, most everything was chest high, with some monster sets every now and then.
Crowds
Quite a few out as compared to the past few days. There was a little hype for the swell pulse...which was fun, but not warranting the increase in people that it did.
Weather
The morning was cold. The day was warm. The sky was clear, the air breezy, offshore for most of the day it seems. Some little Santa Ana's going on---I drove through the canyon and WHAM, you could feel it there, pretty dang intense. Nice setup for tomorrow morning I'm sure.
Forecast
Looks OK. Decent South swell through mid next week. Potential NW swell this weekend, but I'm heading North where it will be GOOD. I am, needless to say, quite hopeful. Hopeful that my head won't hurt, that the hole will be closed, that my face won't be bleeding, and that I'll get some sweet video of Hurrican Choi-Wan up where real waves break.
Eventful Stuff
Nothing too eventful. Just the usual head injuries. Kind of sucks and makes me mad, but who do I have to blame but myself? I think I'll just take Friday morning off and go surf somewhere like Carmel on Friday, get some sweet uncrowded waves all to myself. Three days, I will be healed.
Wave of the Day
That's easy. One wave where a dad shouts to his son to go for it, who thankfully yields to me. I make the drop from pretty far inside, race against the closeout section where the dad was paddling, cutback right where the kid yielded the wave to me, made it through another section, a half cutback / readjustment, bottom turn, cutback, race the section, see it's going to closeout so I shoot up but don't have enough speed for an air so I do a little floater. I thought to myself, "Damn, I'm glad I went for that wave..." then touched the back of my head and winced in pain.
Summary:
Surfrider 2nd, Malibu
5'10" Quad Beauty
6:45-8:45
3-4ft with some slightly bigger sets
3/5
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