Monday, March 30, 2009

Oh snap! Malibu season is on!

Summary
Beau-ti-friggen-full. Waves, shoulders, no crowds, fun. What more could I ask for, really?
Waves
Pretty much perfect. For not being big, these waves were absolutely rippable in every way. Good sized turns doable. My virgin board wished it were here...but its time will come!
Crowds
Not. Six others at 2nd at 8:30. A few more came, but the crowds were truly light given the quality of the waves. 1st, as always, was packed with probably 40+.
Weather
Sunny, warm, beautiful, offshore glassy? Damn fine.
Forecast
Looks mediocre, but hey---certainly was NOT supposed to be good size today, so who knows?
Eventful Stuff
Supposedly today was going to be shit. I woke up at 6:30 and looked @ the cams and report, looked truly mediocre. I then get up later on to start studying for my test and BAM, chest+ high Malibu cam (meaning I see people shortboarding from the low res cam...) I get there and no crowds whatsoever. Absolutely stunning. Too bad I had to miss class for it...oh well.
Wave of the Day
There were so many it's truly impossible to break it down to one. The five + turns wave, or the sick shoulder + barrel, or the bowly inside-but-super-long one? Or the I-drop-in-on-you-when-there-are-six-people-at-2nd one? I don't know, it's hard to say. They pretty much all rocked though.

Summary:
Surfrider 2/3, Malibu
5'10" Southpoint
8:00-11:00
3-5ft glassy perfection groundswell
3+/5 (because my surfing is on friggen fire, no joke)

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