Summary
Umm yea. Sick friggen waves.
Waves
Good size. Good shape. Good shacks. Barrels galore.
Crowds
Crowded. Very crowded. There's swell in Malibu on the weekend after a ridiculous lull. I guess it's warranted.
Weather
Sunny, relatively warm (but still cold as sin), offshore breeze. It turned onshore just after I left.
Forecast
Looks good for tomorrow. Looks very good for tomorrow. Looks amazing for tomorrow. Looks absolutely glorious for tomorrow. Oh, and the rest of the week looks OK too.
Eventful Stuff
Waves. Lots and lots of waves. Quick shoulders, but shoulders nonetheless. Westwards is pretty much as steep a beachbreak as exists. People getting shacked left and right. My surfing is sub-par right now. I hate to say it but I think head high westwards is a little bit past my comfort level. Only one way to solve that problem!
Wave of the Day
The first wave I got was a fun chest+ high right, and pretty much the only right I had all morning. Most all the rest of em' were lefts. Beautiful, inspiring lefts.
Summary:
Westwards, Malibu
6'1" White Dove
7:00-9:00
4-6ft, occasional + set
offshore early -> glassy
3/5 (because my surfing is off...)
Subscribe to:
Post Comments (Atom)
No comments:
Post a Comment